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I think you should disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate and see if the noise is still there or gone. That will tell you which way to go.
It won't separate enough to run the engine. It would be an easy way to see if the flexplate is broke though. I think there is more than one problem. I don't know what his mechanic was seeing with the damper not turning because frankly that is just not possible given the other things the op stated. This whole thing is just getting weird. It sounds like he just wants to buy a new crankshaft.
I agree, it kind of seems as if the OP wants to buy a new crankshaft rather than really search for the problem all because a mechanic tells him it might be the crank. It is getting weird, but I have money on the crank being in perfectly fine shape.
OP, it would benefit you greatly to actually run some tests on the engine like check the oil pressure with a guage on the HPOP rez in place of the fill plug, pull the TC off to check the flexplate, etc.
IF you do decide you want to take the crankshaft out of the engine, your going to have to pull the engine. You cannot even pull the oil pan off with the engine in the truck. Take it from someone who has dropped an engine b/c the engine hoist broke, get a bada$$ engine hoist. One that you think is way overkill for your 1000lb 7.3L. Ours was rated for more than 1000lbs and the legs still folded up with the engine hanging on the end and broke several things on the engine..
Man don't say stuff like that. I'm yanking mine next weekend.
And the more I think about this the more I think his only problem is just a dead cylinder. Probably a melted UVCH wire or something. It cranks up, drives and the accessories are turning so the only problem is it's missing or knocking. same difference really. We haven't heard it run.
Dan, we pulled that same engine out of that truck like 4 times with the same engine hoist. The very last time we pulled it when the block cracked is when the hoist crumbled out from underneath it. Just busted the front cover and some sensors and stuff. No big deal. LOL. That engine ran great despite the cracked block. Just made a loud, empty sounding thud at idle. Rev it up and it sounded almost normal, but put water in it and the sound went away and the crankcase started filling up. haha.
I too was thinking it's likely just a knock from a miss or something... Like you said, we haven't heard it run so it could even be the normal ole 7.3L bucket of bolts rattling around. LOL
I wish you had time to come up here and help with mine. My son and I can pull it in a couple hours but with his attitude lately it might accidentally get dropped on him.
My wife will be in your town next week but I'm not going this time.
Another thing, that VC wire connector under the turbo inlet. often when that one goes, two cylinders go down and talk about a knock!!! You will think the crank is coming through the floorboard.
That big truck mechanic must be seeing something we just don't know. Series 60's, cummins, cat and internationals all are using the hydraulic injectors now. It's not rocket science diagnosing them.
And the verdict is...................the flex plate. Told my buddy I'd have to let it sit due to the impending price tag. Once he started checking with other mechanics and heard much of what I had been told here he thought it'd be a good idea to dig into the problem a bit further. He pulled the torque converter away from the flex plate and it damn near fell out on the garage floor. The center ring with the bolts is the only piece that didn't slide right out.....complete donut hole. One on line flex plate later? runs as good as ever.
And the verdict is...................the flex plate. Told my buddy I'd have to let it sit due to the impending price tag. Once he started checking with other mechanics and heard much of what I had been told here he thought it'd be a good idea to dig into the problem a bit further. He pulled the torque converter away from the flex plate and it damn near fell out on the garage floor. The center ring with the bolts is the only piece that didn't slide right out.....complete donut hole. One on line flex plate later? runs as good as ever.
And the verdict is...................the flex plate. Told my buddy I'd have to let it sit due to the impending price tag. Once he started checking with other mechanics and heard much of what I had been told here he thought it'd be a good idea to dig into the problem a bit further. He pulled the torque converter away from the flex plate and it damn near fell out on the garage floor. The center ring with the bolts is the only piece that didn't slide right out.....complete donut hole. One on line flex plate later? runs as good as ever.
Thanks to all on this string!
I worked on a Dodge in the early 80's that had a similar sound. The engine and flex plate were changed out when the engine was replaced. Somehow the existing red converter needed a red flex plate, but a blue flex plate (US or Canadian) permitted the converter to hit the crank and cause a similar sound. Changed the flex plate and the noise went away.