Question on pulling my engine
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Joined: May 2009
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From: Org Buf Ny now Richmnd Va
Question on pulling my engine
I want to pull my engine to clean it up and paint my engine bay. I know a lot of cherry pickers will not clear the height of the radiator support. Is a good cherry picker the best idea or should I set up a pully in the trusses of my garage. I know I will have to do some rienforcement if I do this. Any ideas, how did you guys get your engines out?
Mine is a 223. 1964 F100
Burke
Mine is a 223. 1964 F100
Burke
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Valley Center, CA
Have you thought of going to a rental place for it? Some rental places have larger engine hoists,and don't forget,
you're going to need an engine stand. I've seen them on craigslist.org for pretty cheap.The rental store in
my town had a cool one that you assembled, it looks like a child's swing-set and it had a "come-a-long" that
hoists the engine out...you get it to clear the front, then roll the vehicle backwards. The truss idea sounds
a little sketchy maybe...
you're going to need an engine stand. I've seen them on craigslist.org for pretty cheap.The rental store in
my town had a cool one that you assembled, it looks like a child's swing-set and it had a "come-a-long" that
hoists the engine out...you get it to clear the front, then roll the vehicle backwards. The truss idea sounds
a little sketchy maybe...
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From: Org Buf Ny now Richmnd Va
I know the radiator support is pretty rusted on the bottom, but im not going to get that involved in the build this time around. Basic paint job and clean up the engine a little. Want to drive it asap. Its not going anywhere, so when I have more time and money I will go all the way. Would be the best way to do it though.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Littleton, CO
I have a picker that works well, but....
When I lived at home, we would use the garage trusses and run a set of "jack-studs" from the next truss out and down along the side of the truck at the point where the hoist was located. That looked like one of those gantry crane set-ups when it was all said and done. Worked great, just be sure the hoist is mounted up to something that can hold the weight, I think we used a couple of 2x8s tied together and on end, spread accross a couple of trusses.
When I lived at home, we would use the garage trusses and run a set of "jack-studs" from the next truss out and down along the side of the truck at the point where the hoist was located. That looked like one of those gantry crane set-ups when it was all said and done. Worked great, just be sure the hoist is mounted up to something that can hold the weight, I think we used a couple of 2x8s tied together and on end, spread accross a couple of trusses.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Think you will find w/out removing the rad then the cherry picker with extention is a must; in addition, purchasing a load leveler (cost about $30) for manuevering out of the engine bay is a plus, particularty during install.
See where there are several sellers on Craigs list in your area parting with engine hoist to stands running from $125-$200. Might want to check with local parts stores and compare to new, don't believe I paid more the $175. Another option to consider, if know friend who would be interested in going in it together.
richmond all for sale / wanted classifieds "engine hoist" - craigslist
See where there are several sellers on Craigs list in your area parting with engine hoist to stands running from $125-$200. Might want to check with local parts stores and compare to new, don't believe I paid more the $175. Another option to consider, if know friend who would be interested in going in it together.
richmond all for sale / wanted classifieds "engine hoist" - craigslist
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From: Org Buf Ny now Richmnd Va
Thanks, found some great stuff on there. For some reason when I look for stuff like that people call things so many different names, its hard to find what you are looking for. I searched a few days ago and got nothing.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Sun River St. George
Engine Detail
Heck of a lot easier to pull the fenders than the hood. And when they are off you can pressure wash the engine. I'd buy a new set of core support bushings and then cut the old bolts (2), disconnect the rad hoses (2), unplug the wiring harness, remove the bumper, and (6) inner fender cowl bolts, (2) fender bolts in the cab, (2) more outside at the bottom, and (2) each for the rubber isolaters on the inner fenders. Then you and a Buddy simply lift all that sheet metal off. Later it will be much easier to line up the door/Fender gap then the hood. Great and complete access to the engine bay and upper end of the transmission. Safer as well no engine dangling in the air. No oil and trans fluid leaking all over the place. No reconnect issues with the engine and trans and a great opportunity to inspect the core support. It may not be as bad as you think. IMHO!