I bought a used 12k Warn from a friend and am trying to wire it up. I'm clear on where everything needs to be but would love some help with just how to go about it from a materials standpoint. The truck is an '06 CC longbed diesel. I'm running it to the rear of the truck right now to be able to use it on a receiver mounted plate as well as a flat bed utility trailer with it's own plate. The future plan is for a front mount receiver as well so potentially 4 more wires running to the Batt than I have now. My first potential problem is the wire I bought.

#1. In my typical fire, ready, aim way of doing things I bought #2 THHN from the home center and after some research see that AWG #2 and SAE #2 aren't the same but in fact AWG is some 10%+ smaller. Am I stuck with $100 worth of unusable wire now or will it work.

#2. What should I do for terminal clamps. Do marine type terminals offer the best workability or should I look for a stud type junction block mounted remotely on the fender somewhere. I'm planning on using the right batt for the hookup to be able to run the wire down the uncluttered right frame rail. It has what appears to be at least 4 wires off of the positive terminal now. I assume one is the paralleling leg and the other to the starter. They would fit on a marine type stud easily but there are 2 additional small gauge wires running to the alternators that would require some rigging to fit a stud type conductor of either type.

I'm open to any suggestions. If you have any pictures of your setup I would appreciate a look. I did a search of the forum and couldn't get any hits that really helped out but if anyone wants to link in another thread if this has already been covered feel free. I'll probably have to work tonight so if I don't get back to anybody real soon that'll be why.
Thanks,
Eric

 

!st off all the wiring needs to be done correctly or poof you could burn up the truck..Big wires like those that rub into the frame will short out and blow up the battery in short order or cause a fire so make sure you route them good. I don't think they make good fuses for those applications..When I did my truck I think I ran 1gauge to the front. I used welding wire as its the best..I also used connectors for the winch so I could take it off and plug in my jumper cables made out of the same stuff...I am going to run cables to the back and will be using the next size bigger which I think is 0 or 1/0...I think I may run two wires rather than using the frame as a ground..I will use a connector there also.

Dick

 

I would use the 350 amp connectors...only.
Dual Power Cable Link Connectors You have to solder them really well..I think I used tinned plumbing flux to do the wire then soldered it fo the connector with a torch.


Also at the battery I bought these gold plated super stereo battery terminals that have many holes in them even for the 1 ga wire. I cut off all the other wires from the factory and inserted them into the gold connector holes and tightened them with the allen screws..nice..been good for years and a real good connection right to the battery..

Dick

 

I haven't does business with them, but might be a source of ideas.

Heavy Duty, Aftermarket, Custom Battery Cables for your Car, Truck or RV

 

typical frames can only carry as much current as a 4 gauge wire. so if you use the frame as a ground at the back of the truck, you are wasting money on 2/0 power cable. hatever you run for power cable, you need the same for ground to be able to have proper current flow. I have 2/0 for power cable in my excursion because I have 3 batteries in the back of my truck for my stereo. power cable for stereo usually runs about $5/foot. you also need an alternator that will be able to keep the batteries charged. if not, you will destroy your batteries. I just installed a new alternator from a custom shop that puts out 190 amps at idle and over 390 amps at about 2000rpm's. do things once and do them right.

 

Hitron BT4P Positive Battery Terminal

Don't know if its the exact one I used but its close...

When I do the rear I'll prob get some type of connector and splice into the 1ga cables going to the front winch...

 

The frame on our trucks will handle any load you can put on it. 1000 amps easy. There is enough steel. I just don't like doing it as it can cause issues with corrosion plus a wire run to the back eliminates 2 connections to the frame which would be the weak link..


Dick

 

"Wiring done right"
repeat it few times. I bought my flatbed with liftgate installed and PO was utility Co in Arizona. The cable for liftgate was picking up power from what I think is starter relay on passenger side inner fender and was running between the frame members to the liftgate.
At the rear it was laying loose on fuel tank. Both the fuel tank and the wire did show some wear outs before I secured the cable. Can you imagine the cable with wear out insulation sparking against the top of metal tank?
I also added 8k winch to my set. Having long cables already and installing it on the top of flatbed railing, I installed one of those forklift plugs on the liftgate cable at the rear of the cabin and whenever I need a winch -I plug it in in few seconds.
This way the winch is easy removable and if I need to mount it to the receiver, I already have cable to reach to both ends.
No matter how you do it -the 300 amps breakers are available at any RV suppliers and if not -installing fuseable link at the battery should not be a big problem.

 

If i am to use Warns 812000 winch as a general refrence for a 12klb winch it seems to draw about 72 amps continuous no-load. Of course it is impractical to size the wire for it's max. current draw of aprox. 550 amps. Similar to that of your vehicle starter. Remember also, pulling at various angles as well as other factors can seriously derate other mechanical items in the system. If your not familiar with winching systems and their usage i suggest you learn before using as they can become death traps if not used or designed properly.

Warn specs the wire for that winch at 2 AWG with a max length of about 72" (6ft)

You have it backwards. AWG is about 10% larger than SAE so you should be fine.

If we look at sizing wire for DC circuits, they have similar rules for say home electrical systems. Home electrical systems wire is sized more for ampacities for safety reasons where as in low voltage systems (12, 24V DC) the concern is power loss. For example a 1volt drop from a 12 volt system causes 10 times the power loss compared to say 1V from a 120V system. So your length running to the back of your truck would be more of a concern than the front. # 2 AWG THHN Will put you near 140 amps (for SAE ratings) continuous. Figure a 1AWG change for over 10ft. Your length will be from source (battery) to load (winch) and back to return (battery-). Consider care in routing, using wire spiral wrap at critical sharp or pinch areas.

Warn Industries - Value Series: Tabor 12K

Bull Dog Winch Wiring | Electrical Wiring | Bulldog Winch

 

YOU ARE SO FAR OFF IT ISN'T FUNNY. if you think any truck frame can handle 1000 amps of current, you are sadly mistaken. its obveous that you dont know much about wiring.

I dont mean to start trouble but, others reading this might take this as "the correct info" and wire it the way you say is "ok".

 

Thats why I talk about having an alternator that can keep up with the winch.

 

I'm 54 and been doing this kind of stuff since I was 12 so go figure..
If you melt down the frame and remold the metal into a round rod say 1 inch minimum rod prob more like 1.5" you don't think a solid one inch rod will carry 1000 amps . HMMM

 

um, no. where ya gettin your info. you cant jus say something will work. for instance, in my excursion, my batteries were not getting a full charge. I grounded the batteries at the frame. I then installed a 2/0 cable for ground as well as the power. poof...14.7 volts from the alternator. before that, it was only charging at 13.2 volts. start doing some research. you will find out that the frame is no good for a ground. if it was from the front winch to the batteries in the front then its ok. but running all the way to the rear is a NO for sure.

 

you say if you melt down your frame..... what? but you arent, and you dont have the right current capabilities to be able to carry that much.

 

I disagree totally. The frame will carry more current with less loss than a 1/0 copper wire because of the mass of steel and the way its shaped any heat will dissapate. Your battery needs to be grounded to the engine block well to deliver well from your alt.
I have hooked winches up using the frame it works just fine as long as the frame is heavy duty like our trucks.

I was trying to have you visualize if you take the the frame amount of metal at any given point the area would be larger than a 1" round bar.

If you don't agree thats fine....Oh I'm a welder also. Have used metal frames of things for high amperage grounds for years. And I install residential electrical service from the pole to the house underground. Oh well..