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I have a new f 350 Lariat on order and am expecting any day it has 18 inch rims any idea what brand of tire's it would be shipped with as I am contemplating switching out if there are General or Continental.
People who have them report good road manners, excellent traction and long wear. My brother will be the Guinea Pig for me as he is set to replace stock Contis' on his 2008. I plan on buying before next winter.
My 18" cam with Contis. I went with Goodyear Dure Tracs. This is I think the 3rd truck I have put them on and I love them. But others hated them and had them taken off. I would at least look in to them if I were you. Oh and the Contis SUCK. Just my .02
My King Ranch is coming with Michelin LTX 275/60/R20's. A great tire, E rated. I have a new set of 18" Michelin MS/2's and rims that I purchased before i sold my truck. If
The bolt pattern is the same on my 2011, I will run 2 sets. If not, i will return the 18" wheels and rims. I am a big Michelin fan! They don't make a Light truck (LT) 20" MS/2 only in a passenger tire 20"
shep - I was a big fan of those tires too, until I got them on my 2011 KR. The truck I traded in had over 20k miles on a set of the exact same tires (in 18"), and they looked almost new. When the new truck came with them from the factory, I was thrilled.
Cut to 13k miles later, and two of the tires are completely shot, chunking in the middle two tread bars. one of those would not even hold air, losing about 5 lbs per day. According to my dealer, if I had noticed the issue 1k miles sooner, Ford would have replaced the tires under warranty. Instead, I got 40% credit for replacing the two bad ones (later found out it should have been 60%). I went to another Michelin tire - the BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO.
I don't yet know if these new tires can handle the torque of this engine or the strain of towing my fiver... but I knew that the LTX A/T 2 could not. Apparently, I'm not the only one, as this problem has been reported here and lots of places for this tire. Depending on your application... you might want to see if you can trade in the new tires before they get 20 miles on them. Usually, places like discount tire will give you a really good deal for new tire trades.
I now have BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO in the same size as stock. There is no mileage guarantee (I was kinda put off by this) but I had to get another Michelin tire in order to get the warranty credit. I added the discount tire "certificates" that should cover me if the same thing happens to these tires. They don't have a mileage guarantee either, but they do cover anything like what I experienced for the "life" of the tire. That "life" is defined by usable tread. It's not an ideal situation, but better coverage than what I had from Ford.
I ended up paying almost $1200 (incl. tax) for the new set of tires with certificates. That's *with* the 40% credit on the rear tires, and a small trade-in allowance on the front tires. Also, with me haggling him down a bit... it was going to be over $1300. If I had traded them in new, I think would have been out about $400 with tax and certificates. HTH
I had a problem, with a 4door sedan, steel belted tires should ONLY be rotated front to back, never crossed.
First set of michelin passenger tires lasted only 500 miles after cross rotation, the second set with only front back rotation lasted 115,000 miles. Don't let a tire guy conveince you otherwise. With two solid axles, front back rotation is best anyways as the tires wear very evenly.
Fortgot one piece, I draw a mark on the driver front tire with a pencil (small and obscure to untrained eye ) that way I can see where they actually put the tire. Some workers just move a tire to back, and when re-balancing forget which side it came from.
Guess I will have to wait and see what they shipped it with, 08 came with Pirelli tires they were a good tire for ride and and had no problem hauling the 5th with a 2000lb. pin weight but were useless in the snow.
while I do appreciate the input, my issue wasn't rotation-related. Also, cross rotation is not a bad thing, I'd done it for almost 20 years and never had a problem. With an open rear diff, one tire gets more stress than the other. simple front-back will not properly distribute wear.
20 years, yes, but I have had 3 bad experiences with cross rotation. Car (front wheel drive), truck (4x4 limited slip), and a SUV(same). All three resulted in tires shot after first rotation and <1000 miles from brands Michelin, Goodyear and General. All three brands agreed and replaced all three sets. Just my three cents. I will never let anyone cross rotate my tires, ever. Why would you as long as thy corners of front and rear are evenly wearing?
I definitely agree that on the trucks you listed, cross-rotation is not as much of a benefit. Limited slip diffs wear rear tires a bit more evenly than the ELD on my truck does.
How often do you rotate your tires? I think *maybe* the issues you had could be related to the length of time between rotations, combined with driving habits. Some tires (on drive wheels) develop directional wear after a period of time. Reversing the direction of rotation after this has set in could easily destroy the tire in the timeframe you mentioned.
My 18" cam with Contis. I went with Goodyear Dure Tracs. This is I think the 3rd truck I have put them on and I love them. But others hated them and had them taken off. I would at least look in to them if I were you. Oh and the Contis SUCK. Just my .02
Tim
I'll second the G/Y Duratrac. I have them on my Hummer and love them. They are quiet for such an aggressive tread and are excellent in the snow and offroad.
I have Nitto TrailGrapplers on my 6.7 and they have been great. Louder than the Duratracs, but still quiet for an aggro tread. The difference between the stock Mich tires to the Nittos is staggering in the snow! They also look incredibly sic