I have a set of D2TEAA heads on the engine in my 75 and I was wondering on a rebuild for them, Im going to take them to a local machine shop and have them checked out.but wanted to get some advice.

what should I plan on replacing? is there usually much on them that are re-usable or is it one of those times its just good to buy new every thing(valves, springs, guides, push rods, help me out on what im forgetting)

I assume these are emission controlled heads, is there anything that can be done to make them "better"

 

oh yeah....Its just going to be a basically stock rebuild on the engine

thanks, kyle

 

A simple clean up with a frap wheel gets alot of old carbon out the intakes that you wouldn't belive is there. Also the exhaust really responds to porting becouse of the poor relationship most stock heads have.

More importantly a modern dual pattern cam will help every where in terms of performance.

 

How many miles are on the motor to start with?

Those heads came from the factory with "induction hardened exhaust seats". After years of the exhaust valves smacking into the seats, that induction hardening is mostly gone.

So, if it were me, I'd look at getting hardened exhaust seats put in.

The guides after lots of miles will also be bad enough they need something done. Knurling the guides will work but only for a VERY short time. Putting in new guides will also be a requirement, again, if it were me.

New springs, of course. The springs, after a lot of miles, will certainly be much lower than they should be. They can be shimmed to get the seat pressure back to normal, but they will just wear out that much faster.

If it was a motor that you just want to freshen, and everything seems to be nominal, a quick valve seat cut/grind, valve grind, and valve tip cut and you're good to go.

But if you plan on keeping the engine for a long time, I'd go with new exhaust seats, guides and springs. The valves, unless they are bent or cracked, will probably not need to be replaced.

The D2TE heads can use a bit of exhaust porting, especially right under the valve, and get rid of the air injection bump further on. I would take them to someone who knows FE engines if you're going to get them ported. Otherwise, if you again just want the basics taken care of, a quick polish of the exhaust ports will certainly help.

DO NOT touch the intake ports if this is a mild build. The roughness of the intake ports can help the gas stay suspended, polishing them can hurt.

 

And what about the intake manifold? I'll be freshening up my 360 and looking for basic performance increases; i.e., where can I pick up a little MPG and maybe an extra little bit of torque? 3.73's on a Camper Special that will be used almost exclusively to tow an old SilverStreak. I was thinking that polish the runners/ports and port match the intake/exhaust would be a step in the right direction but I'm new to FE's; should I leave the intake runners/ports alone?

 

Leave the intakes alone. As per the prior post, rough intakes help keep turbulence going which keeps the fuel suspended.

Mirror finish the exhausts if you like.

For a 360, headers, a small 4bbl, and a straight up timing set is about all you can do unless you are going to build it into a 390 or bigger.

As for picking up mpg, you are in a pretty tough spot. Your only friends are a light touch on the throttle and low speeds.

 

Thanks for the input. Had looked a 600CFM 4bbl (and headers) as a possibility and really just trying to find ways to increase VE rather than CID although it sounds like going 390 is a good choice. Still in research mode on this and the title of this thread happened to catch my eye.

 

The problem with the 360 is low compression and sunken pistons. Several posters here report lots more power with the same mpg out of a 390 with compression near 9:1 plus the other standard rebuild goodies like an rv cam, headers, even a stock 4bbl manifold etc.