Carb vs EFI
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From: Gallitzin, Pa.
Carb vs EFI
I got 1992 5,0 and was curious would i get more out of the motor performancewise by switching it over to a 4bbl? I can get everything i need to do it, so no concerns there.
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From: wyoming
depends????
If you switch to a quality carburator it will help! If your gonna spend $350.00 on a carb probably not much difference than what you got. tuning a carb is a tricky thing also. Also your engine is a air pump and the more efficiently you move air through it the better power you make. so any improvements in air flow is a good thing.
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From: Gallitzin, Pa.
thanks, dont know much about FI motors and how to tune them. like the consistency of the fuel injection over terrain. some guys run predators but think it would be to much for stock motor.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Well for starters you generally don't need to tune them.. it does that itself without any outside help, you just change things to increase airflow through the motor and the EFI system figures out how much fuel to add. You are limited of course in how far you can go before the fuel supply and EFI control have to be rescaled, but even so the stock setup will support about 300hp.
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From: Harrisburg, NE
IMHO I would just take this as an opportunity to learn! fuel injection has alot of capabilities that carbs just can't do, and there isn't much that is "black" about the black box anymore.
and there really wouldn't be any gain on a stock engine, most of the problems that people have that is blamed on fuel injection comes from lack of maintenance (they tune themselves but even sensors degrade over time).
I would suggest some googling and learn a little about fuel injection, or I could even recommend a book if you would like.
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I have this book and it explaines the system Ford used up until 1993 as the book says but in some cases thru 1995. Good to have. There are a few others.
http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Injection.../dp/0837603013
http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Injection.../dp/0837603013
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From: Gallitzin, Pa.
i will look into that book, thanks and appreciate all the suggestions coming my way. i always worry about messing up a "sensor this sensor that". its good to know the stock motor can handle up to 300 hp also. yes i've considered a chip but budgets costraints are on me right now and from what i have read you get what you pay for with them and i dont want no e bay joke. so what would you say controls the computer to make adjustments? like if i crammed more air would it comp with the fuel or vice versa? and since i dont need an exhaust other than manifolds will gt 40p's fit then? i dont care if i got to bash the inner fenderwells a bit. i will just leave the manifolds on what i pull off. thanks alot i truly appreciate all the direction. gonna have to put a "FTE" sticker on it this yr, lol
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From: Chicago area
The problem with GT40P heads is the angle of the spark plugs, it's different from all other Windsor heads, OEM or aftermarket. This angle effects how the plug wires fit with some headers. Burnt wires can result. Some fit better then others. I have read that going with boots with a 90 deg angle cures most of these but I have no experience my self.
The Ford computer, if it is a Mass Air type, will adjust fuel as you feed in more air via better flowing heads, bigger valves, larger throttle body, headers, etc. The earlier Speed Density system does not do this. The book I listed explaines all this.
The Ford computer, if it is a Mass Air type, will adjust fuel as you feed in more air via better flowing heads, bigger valves, larger throttle body, headers, etc. The earlier Speed Density system does not do this. The book I listed explaines all this.
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From: Harrisburg, NE
seconded, mass air is the way to go and it is possible to go to mass air without swapping out the entire wiring harness, just the computer, mass sensor and its own additional harness. the mass air sensor is matched to the size of the fuel injectors.
I wouldn't worry about chipping tough, if you ever get to that point it would be better to go with TweeCer (allows tuning on ford computer) or megasquirt (DIY computer) setup.
I wouldn't worry about chipping tough, if you ever get to that point it would be better to go with TweeCer (allows tuning on ford computer) or megasquirt (DIY computer) setup.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
The speed density(SD) system isn't as adaptable as the mass air(MAF) system but it will still handle some minor performance upgrades. On the earlier motors(pre '94) the single best bang-for-your-buck upgrade is by far the cam, the stock bumpstick is tiny so just about any aftermarket replacement will produce big gains. The Comp 31-255-5 or 35-255-5 flat tappets are fully compatable with this EFI system and not very expensive at all.
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From: Gallitzin, Pa.
I would imagine mine is speed density, if the the 40p heads come my way i will do it. plug wires are the least of my concerns, i got a salvage yard sponsor so that helps that. thanks for thew cam suggestions you been giving conanski i looked at them and gonna go with a high rev cam cause all the spinning and full throttle i need it. now to override that damn e4od crap tranny and i would be good. alot of guys on here say you can't back track to the c6 but if i can figure it out i will. even if i got to shift manually, f-it i will. i need top end speed in low. not to brag but my stock is running pro stock times now and i want to hand chevy guys their ***, (beer talking...lol)
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From: Harrisburg, NE
never done it personally (I try to avoid auto's like the plague) so maybe somebody else can chime in on this, but perhaps a manual tranny computer? if so it would be a great time to go mass air (which i believe started in 94)
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From: Gallitzin, Pa.
my intake is in the cab running thru a tubing set up so the maf would be protected, but the run from the air box to the intake is quit a bit so do you think it may throw it off ? and i run K&N cone filters, so i would need to make an adapter.
thought about doing the manual trans. but there is alot going on in the cab during the race and for the cost factor the clutch is just one more thing to go wrong IMO. i think when people say about switching back to a c6 its due to the different speed sensors and computer controlling the shifts so it wont function as intended, i.e shifting when it's supposed too. so by doing it all manually it should work. i think (not sure) it runs on vacuum, so add that line and heck with the speed sensors, of course this is all theory, and may not be quit so easy.
thought about doing the manual trans. but there is alot going on in the cab during the race and for the cost factor the clutch is just one more thing to go wrong IMO. i think when people say about switching back to a c6 its due to the different speed sensors and computer controlling the shifts so it wont function as intended, i.e shifting when it's supposed too. so by doing it all manually it should work. i think (not sure) it runs on vacuum, so add that line and heck with the speed sensors, of course this is all theory, and may not be quit so easy.