Quite a few folks are switching to ELC coolant. One of the compelling reasons is that International uses it and it is silicate free - unlike the Ford Premium Gold coolant. I don't plan on advocating or discouraging this decision (at least not with any strong convictions at this point).

I realize that there certainly are documented cases of silicate goo plugging the oil cooler - clearly indicating that a silicate free coolant would have prevented this particular issue.

I also know that there are quite a few folks that have used the Ford Premium Gold (many w/ a coolant filter added on), for well over 150k miles and have had no issues w/ clogged oil coolers or failed EGR coolers.

We may never know why the silicate goo forms, but Ford does say it can happen if combustion gasses are exposed to the coolant. It may happen if the coolant is used for too many miles (I personally change my coolant every 45k miles - twice the recommended frequency). I also suspect it can happen if the coolant is exposed to excessive temperatures - say in the EGR cooler. And also, use only distilled water when diluting the concentrate.

This leads to an interesting perspective in problem solving:

Excessive heat or a small leaking head gasket could be the initial cause for silicate goo to form. It might be slow and unnoticeable at first. This may eventually plug the oil cooler, which then starves the EGR cooler, which will cause the EGR cooler to fail and can even lead to significant head gasket failure.

However, we also know that a clogged oil cooler (if it happens first) will starve the EGR cooler and cause it to fail, which will expose coolant to exhaust gasses and high temperature, then cause potential head gasket issues, etc.

So - which happens first?? Bad "Gold coolant" that is destined to form silicate goo? Maybe it is initiated from small issues in the engine that begin the goo forming process.

Many questions, but no conclusive answer.

One more interesting piece of information. A Ford Diesel Tech pointed out a LONG time ago:

The cooling system must be completely full and purged of air to prevent EGR cooler damage.

6.0 PowerStroke Page

Maybe we are simply not getting the air properly purged from the system after we do our "tinkering" with the engine???

I certainly may switch to ELC coolant at some point. However, right now, I am satisfied w/ the Ford Gold. I will do the following as long as I run the Ford Gold: 45k coolant change intervals, properly maintaining the concentration, purging the air out if I drop the level. And, if diluting the Ford Gold concentrate, I will do so with distilled water ... and stay at a 50/50 mix (no higher).

No matter what coolant I have, I will continue watching the EOT/ECT split and keep using the coolant filter.

Discussion and opposing opinions are more than welcome.

 

Interesting thoughts and theories Bismic. I'm currently at a coolant dilemma myself. I've run the Ford Gold exclusively and planned on putting in Zerex G-05 when I'm done putting my truck back together. I've since come across the new coolant theories with ELC and am ready to make the switch. I have previously had EGR and oil cooler issues and now have a coolant filer as well so I don't entirely trust the Ford Gold/Zerex avenue with the silicates. I'm out of warranty and am willing to try anything that will help get longevity out of this truck as it's paid for and I can't afford something new or different. Once it's all back together I'll perform a flush and go from there, depending how the coolant filter looks when I open it up.

 

I recently purchased a 06 f-350 to replace a 04 f-250 that I put in the water. Thank you USAA for allowing me to afford another diesel. I have been completeing minor upgrades to the 350 in hopes of preventing some promblems incurred early on. I had the green anti-freeze in the truck when purchased and knew I had to change it out and flush it well. I Went with an ELC and installed a coolant filter as well. I went through the replacement of EGR and oil cooler in the last truck and working to prevent that in this one. I purchased an EDGE Evo as well because that is what I ran in the last one, with some differences. The prior EDGE had ATTITUDE and the new one goes to the OBDII port.

 

sorry, guess I went off on a tangant. I believe Bismic, verdict is still out on the coolant but cheaper to be safe than sorry. I feel most problems can be avoided or corrected by proper maintenance.

 

Ok so whats the best way to purge the air out?

 

I am using Cat ELC, mainly to avoid silicate problems and the cooler plugging issues, but also because it's what International uses (ELC coolant). I have changed the engine oil cooler once and hope not to have to repeat it! I also used the Bulletproof EGR cooler and a homemade coolant filter assembly.

 

Wondering this also??

 

As far as I know, it is automatic. There is a port in the intake manifold called "EGR cooler coolant deaeration port" and a hose runs from there to the degas bottle. (page 17 of the Powerstroke Bible) I assume that does the job, if given enough time before you hot rod it. If there is another way I would also like to know.

 

Ford has a procedure to put the system under vacuum during the fill. The Ford unit is a venturi operated vacuum system IIRC.

I believe that the air will eventually purge out, but the "Dieselmann" article indicates that if the procedure is not followed, it could be jeopardizing the health of the OEM EGR cooler. I do not know how conservative the article is.

For me - I have a way of pulling a vacuum on the system next time I mess with it (vacuum pump). I plan on using it.

 

I am putting in a new motor with Shell Rotella ELC. I have seen some very disturbing gunk in my coolant filters. If that is from the Gold then I'll be better off. It will be interesting to see how the filter looks using the ELC. I'll report my findings.

I was wondering if maybe running the block heater excessively can increase the build up of that goo? In the winter I leave the truck plugged in all day because I never know when I may need to drive it. I think I read some of the bus drivers having issues with the block heaters and the goo. I don't see how it would unless it's because the coolant isn't circulating and only sections of it are heated. Both my oil cooler and heater core were plugged up. Just a thought.

I know the ELC is more expensive and you can use "extended" maintenance intervals, but I plan in changing it as per the Gold maintenance schedule anyways.

 

I read somewhere that silicates will precipitate out of the Gold coolant even without heat, which limits shelf life of the coolant. From this I surmise that when you buy Gold coolant, it might be good to check the date of manufacture on the bottles.

Personally, I plan to switch to ELC when the weather warms up. I changed my coolant at 50k miles and still had oil/EGR cooler failures. Granted, it took me 4 years to reach 50k miles, but still.

BTW the Ford bleeding procedure is in the Workshop Manual starting on page 303-03-1. It actually describes two ways; the vacuum method using a Radkitplus kit, and just running the engine until it's hot then letting it cool off and adding more coolant until it reaches the fill line when cold. Here's the Workshop pages.

 

Thanks for the link!

The described air purging procedure without the Radkitplus is very simple. Seems that normal driving would quickly purge the air out based on that description. From that procedure, it is pretty hard to see how EGR cooler damage could result from simple "filling and driving" ..... unless you just weren't paying attention to the coolant level and you let it get too low for an extended period! Maybe that is what the "warning" was all about!

 

During the many flushes I did after using VC-9 I found that squeezing the top hose at the radiator until it sounded "full" helped to drive some of the air out of the system. If I did this after topping up the degas bottle the process went a lot quicker.

 

Recently I did a coolant flush/change over to the Cat-1 ELC coolant. During the flush I pulled the thermostat and followed per the ford instructions. I had asked the place where I purchased the truck if it had been flushed . They told me it was flushed at about 70k. It had 125k on it when I flushed it. Before the coolant change I had minor pukeing issues it was never consistant or very much. But it would happen about once a week. Since the flush I have not had a drop of coolant puke. The only other thing I did was replace my 2 month old off brand (Murray) thermostat with one from the ford dealer. Also the coolant filter I took off on the last flush was absolutly full of crud. So far I love the new coolant. Its a pretty pinkish color too! You couldn't pay me enough to put ford gold back in at this point. I also don't get the degas fluctuations I used too anymore. Just thought I would share that info for some out there pukeing it could be as simple as a good coolant flush and change.

 

My question for discussion is why didn't Ford make their new Non silicate anti freeze that's currently being used in the 6.7 powerstroke downward compatible with the 6.0 psd engine and cooling system? Notice I included "cooling system"!

Ford allows us to use their latest tranny fluild "LV" to be used in our Torque Shift tranny instead of the origninal spec. "SP", but doesn't allow us to use their latest antifreeze makes me question there's a reason for this.