I'm about to fix the turn signal switch in my 85 manual trans., tilt steering column (due to one of the tabs cracking and not holding the left turn signal). Is there any sort of maintenance anybody recommends doing while I have the steering wheel off?

I have also been having some issues with the ignition cylinder. It gets stiff in the winter and doesn't spring back from the start position (not a big deal to me but I'd hate to lose a starter because someone else was driving my truck and didn't realize).

Also, sometimes nothing happens when I turn the key to the start position. I used to be able to slam the door while holding the key in start and that would do the trick but that stopped working a few days ago. Just found out that if I adjust the tilt on the wheel to its highest position the problem goes away. Any ideas on what this might be?

I searched around and it sounds like it could be a multitude of things, so I may just start digging around looking for problems before buying any replacement parts (other than the turn signal switch which I know is bad). Just wondering if anybody has had the same issues on their truck and what they did to fix it.

 

my ignition doesn't spring back either, but I didn't bother fixin' mine. Way I see it, nobody has any business driving my truck, and I'll have words with anyone who tries. That side of the bench only fits my behind. lol

 

IIRC, the sticky ignition is caused by the grease drying up in the mechanism that goes between the lock cylinder and the rod that actuates the ignition switch. Some spay lithium grease should work well for that. You might want to go ahead and get a new lock cylinder, they're cheap and readily available. If you still have problems with the starter engaging, you can adjust the ignition switch by loosening 2 nuts (7/16?) that hold it to the top of the steering column. It is located towards the lower part of the column and it may be easier to drop the column down some to gain access.

 

New lock cylinder it is then. Any ideas about the ignition only working when the wheel is fully up?

Something else that has been bugging me for a while is the steering wheel being off by about 60 degrees when driving straight forward. I thought I might be able to slide it back on with the correct alignment but there is a smooth section on the spindle / steering wheel that only allows me to put it back on at the same orientation it was taken off. Is there an easy way to fix this?

 

You can take it loose where it goes into the steering box near the rag joint and fix it that way.

I would go ahead and buy a new ignition switch and install it also. If you use the alignment pin and follow the instructions that come with it, the occasional starting problem might go away.

 

disconnect the pitman arm from the steering box, straighten steering wheel, reconnect pitman arm

 

I believe it has a keyed spline also. Plus that would throw the steering box off.

 

ignition switch is only 15 bucks. i put a new one in my 81 f100 a few years ago and prolly gunna do it to my 86 f250.

 

neither of these will work, you can adjust the tie rod sleeves evenly to correct the steering wheel but a front end alignment is the best thing to do. A rear end sitting crooked in the truck can cause this also

 

How many allen screws are there holding the lower shroud thing in place? I got two off but I still can't move it around. Thinking there must be a third (or more) but couldn't see any. Already got the ones at the 6 o'clock and 10 o'clock (approximately) positions.

 

I think there are 3 but I don't remember exactly where they're at but I'm gonna guess 2:00

 

My truck had most of those problems when I first got it too.

The stiff ignition was fixed, in my case, by dropping the column & removing the switch, cleaning it out with aerosol contact cleaner, & lubing it internally with dielectric grease - made a big difference, especially on cold mornings. Greasing the tumbler and parts (as Bashby mentioned) also helps a lot. It's working perfectly now, but for the small cost involved, a new switch would be the way to go.
When you reinstall the switch on the column, set the freeplay between the switch & rod at the mid-way point before tightening it right down - with the key in the 'Lock' position, & the slider of the switch in the corresponding position.

I re-centered my steering wheel by setting the front wheels straight-ahead, then adjusted the tie-rods (shortening one while lengthening the other exactly the same amount).
Go for a drive & readjust as necessary. A half revolution on the tie-rod adjusters will make a noticeable difference to the steering wheel position.

I also replaced the indicator switch unit on an 88 F150 that I've since sold - with tilt. Not something you want to do when you're under pressure & short on time. It's all relatively straight forward but I made it a bigger job than it need have been. Second time would be a piece of cake.

On a non-tilt truck, the plug & the loom run down the side of the column (inside the plastic shroud) - simple.

But on the tilt column, the loom passes down through a hole in part of the tilt mechanism, & the plug is too big to fit. I stripped it all down further than I needed to, trying to work it out.
In the curved plug on the end of the loom is a red wedge that can be - not so obviously - removed. The wiring is then released from the plug & can be pulled out, passed through the hole, & the plug refitted.

Bolt everything back together (meshing the tumbler rack & pinion took a couple of attempts to get right) & you're away! For memory

 

Before you go adjusting the tie rod ends to straighten out the stearing wheel, check all your connections to the steering box. I had replaced the steering box on my truck and when hooking up the shaft to the steering box, somehow I got the shaft onto the splines crooked even though there is a flat spot. My steering wheel was off kilter and I drove it for a month. Then I went back and checked all my connections and at the steering box found out the flats did not line up. I believe that all connections for the steering system have keyed splines and flats. That is why I suggest you go over everything before you start adjusting tie rod ends.

 

Yes, I had my truck aligned, steering wheel straight, everything was perfect. On my vacation several years ago the steering box lower seal let go, so I went by and got a rebuilt box, and then took it to a garage to have it installed at a place in Deston Florida. Instead of taking the piece loose at the rag joint, they just slid the double D shaft out with the steering box, slipped the shaft back in and then hooked it up to the new box. When I left my steering box was very sloppy and my steering wheel was off.

So I found out there is a plastic piece up inside the double D shaft they probably lost and that's where all the play came from, and when they re-attached the column shaft to the new box, they go that off and that threw my steering wheel off.

I am sure am glad I do my own work. I then only have myself to blame when things go wrong.