1969 f250 missing bad
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1969 f250 missing bad
I'm new to the site here and am looking for a little help. I bought this truck last week and every time I turn the key over there is a new noise or problem. The owner took it to emissions 2 weeks ago and passed with no issues. When I test drove it and inspected it was running like a champ, fired right up and had no apparent leaks, so I bought it. Before I could even get to the DMV, it was missing, had a massive oil leak, and the dzzy was making a god awful noise. The owner gave me a rebuilt carb with it, he said it would need replaced. The wires, plugs, condenser and points are new, he replaced them before taking it through smog test. It now can't even move, I putt gear and try to push the gas and it just dies out, at idle it seems fine, it's missing, but idles fairly smooth. I noticed when I took the cap off that there was side play in the shaft, i don't know what the tolerances on that, but it definitely seems like too much, would that effect it?I have had a few of these trucks, but never one with the points system. Any help would be appreciated, sorry about the long post.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SW Florida
It sounds like there is an issue with the carb; there is an idle circuit and then a power circuit. If the power circuit is plugged it will idle but not have any power above idle.
The dist problem could be compounding things; there shouldn't be excessive play in the shaft. A few thousands at most. Any excessive play in the shaft will cause the points to be opening erratically and not firing the coil properly.
The dist problem could be compounding things; there shouldn't be excessive play in the shaft. A few thousands at most. Any excessive play in the shaft will cause the points to be opening erratically and not firing the coil properly.
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 957
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From: Valley Center, CA
Hey Dirty,
Welcome to FTE. Well, I'm not sure where you are, but I'm surprised you would ever need to smog a 1969. I live in CA, and anyone who grew up watching "Price is Right" knows, our emission laws here are insane, but even here, we only need to smog mid seventies and up.
If there is play in the distributor, that's not good. The bushings are most likely toast. If there is play, getting sound timing will be impossible. Also, you might want to check for vacuum leaks-you can't time it in with one. I'd go to NAPA or the likes and get a rebuild, and go to electronic ignition. As far as the oil leaks go...most likely bad gaskets here and there...break out the tools. swap out the carb with that rebuilt one too.
Welcome to FTE. Well, I'm not sure where you are, but I'm surprised you would ever need to smog a 1969. I live in CA, and anyone who grew up watching "Price is Right" knows, our emission laws here are insane, but even here, we only need to smog mid seventies and up.
If there is play in the distributor, that's not good. The bushings are most likely toast. If there is play, getting sound timing will be impossible. Also, you might want to check for vacuum leaks-you can't time it in with one. I'd go to NAPA or the likes and get a rebuild, and go to electronic ignition. As far as the oil leaks go...most likely bad gaskets here and there...break out the tools. swap out the carb with that rebuilt one too.
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Yeah, I replaced the carb and that didn't help at all. Here in az anything older than 1966 has to be smogged. I bought a used dizzy today from the junk yard and when I went put it in the oil pump shaft fell out and into the motor. I even shook the dizzy a couple times to make sure it wouldn't fall out and as soon as I was over the hole out it went. Can I remove the pan and have it fall out or am I totally screwed.
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Check that, anything newer than 66, and the oil leaks are from the intake and oil pan gasket, so I'm hoping that by removing the pan I can get that shaft out and change the gasket as well since that's where the major leak is from.
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Whew, got the shaft out with a magnet and got the dizzy in, it's still running a little rough, but I'm going to set the timing and carb tomorrow. It's definitely running better and not missing. There also no play in the shaft anymore. Sucks, I gotta go back to the junkyard tomorrow and get the timing pointer since there isn't one on here right now. Oh well at least I can the light at the end of the tunnel now.
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So today the truck starts right up, I warm it up no issues, drive for about 45 minutes and stop and get gas and it wouldn't start at all, I left and came back with a buddy about 2 hours later and when I went to start it it fired right up? Drove it to the store to eat, and I came out it wouldn't start again, I let it sit for about an hour and it fired right up again, except this time it won't idle at a light and it dies when I put it in gear, any ideas out there?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Ah these old trucks if have been left sitting do have a few problems.
1. it sounds like the float maybe a little high or the if it's an auto choke is out of adjustment to rich .. 2. Maybe crap in the gas tank that has been sucked up making it idle bad. But this has been happening to most of these old classic. Ford added a hot/coolant heater base carb plate on these, I think starting in 1970 with a c6 auto-trans for cold weather as these fe blocks were known as a little cold blooded and took many mile to warm up. Well the warm carb base came back to bite ford in the *** in warmer weather and then in later yrs. As when these were parked for a short time the carb fuel bowl would boil over and flood the motor an foul the spark plugs making hard to start. Leaving the driver stranded for a while. Some people bypassed this hot/coolant carb plate and some removed and replaced it with a oem black Phenolic spacer that was used on the small blocks up into the 80's,
for this same problem. my 2cents
orich
1. it sounds like the float maybe a little high or the if it's an auto choke is out of adjustment to rich .. 2. Maybe crap in the gas tank that has been sucked up making it idle bad. But this has been happening to most of these old classic. Ford added a hot/coolant heater base carb plate on these, I think starting in 1970 with a c6 auto-trans for cold weather as these fe blocks were known as a little cold blooded and took many mile to warm up. Well the warm carb base came back to bite ford in the *** in warmer weather and then in later yrs. As when these were parked for a short time the carb fuel bowl would boil over and flood the motor an foul the spark plugs making hard to start. Leaving the driver stranded for a while. Some people bypassed this hot/coolant carb plate and some removed and replaced it with a oem black Phenolic spacer that was used on the small blocks up into the 80's,
for this same problem. my 2cents
orich
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Save yourself some time and aggravation...find a local mech who knows the basic Ford FE checkup/diagnosis and let them steer you along. What the last guy said he did maybe didn't get done or could be wrong. It needs fire, fuel and air to run right. That's about it.
