When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Long story short heres a few things I need where is best to look and any suggestions before I buy.
76 F250 Ranger 360 4 speed
Exhaust: Someone did change the whole thing heads back. Headers however are just rusted through an sound like crapppppp. Something aftermarket, anyway rippin them out an putting ceramic coated ones in for sure. Rest of exhaust is almost new with some real cheap-o mufflers which come out next as well. Suggestions on exhaust setup? I am probably dropping off to my good friend who does all his own work, and swears by cherry bombs... do I go for it or what. I say lets make this a level 8 or so out of 10 loud wise. He said order new headers coated and hardware what should I go for. Cheapest stuff coated?
Steering: Very loose right now. I know its not going to be totally tight but I am sure not this sloppy. Drove well down the road but she otherwise is scary when you hit anything to turn you. Pretty much its the gear box that is just loose, powersteering feels fine fluids are all check.
Rear Leafs: Sagged over time. Rust is beyond to a minimum. Shackles are all in great shape with little surface rust. Need to get rear end up 2 more inches. Already has a 4" block in the rear and fronts all stock so she must have towed in her last life. I know the leafs are like 2.23 or something wide not 3" like newer stuff. I have a set of the same size short add-a-leafs in my garage. Not specific to what they fit but should they work. I know there 2". My question for those is what size center pin do I need. WHats in the truck and i'll make sure the leaf fits it too. I really don't see the need to replace the whole spring pack since there just so clean besides sagged. I will not be towing or testing the truck for any reason just light duty stuff.
Wheels: I know she can fit some crazy sizes stock but I am liking the 33's look on it. Right now the nasty rusted wheels are still on it which will be off asap until money finished the needed stuff. I am surely getting crager d windows in black but what size! Can I fit 15's? Otherwise I rather 16's. What was factory ont he truck and is 16.5 just a chevy thing. I rather not have the odd size tires for the sake of tire choices on used and new even. Right now I have 16.5 rusted up with 33x12.5 so I deff will keep that just on 16x10 rims. Is that to wide would you say? Do I stick to smaller or how will the offsets work on this year truck.
Thanks so much! Can't wait till more parts show up and get rollin!
on your steering, check the link/shaft between the steering column and the steering gear box, it's probably shot
there is an aftermarket replacement.............only, flaming river or torrington about $200
wheels, it came with 16's, if front discs, dual piston calipers, nothing smaller will fit
chevy 16's have too small a center hole and the offset os different, dodge later models mostly will fit, but 16's
mine came with 16's, locking ring style 2 piece, up to 90's something steel 16's from pu and vans are ok too, I have 16 x 10 aftermarket, 35" dia tires, no lift, suspension is stock
on your steering, check the link/shaft between the steering column and the steering gear box, it's probably shot
there is an aftermarket replacement.............only, flaming river or torrington about $200
ummmm...a new rag joint will set you back about $20 and it's not a difficult repair...you might need a grinder to cut the factory rivets...but it goes really quick.
do the rag joint first (should be about time anyway for a new one) and see if that doesn't cure your problem. Then go from there. Rag Joint is a slang term for steering coupler.
do the rag joint first (should be about time anyway for a new one) and see if that doesn't cure your problem. Then go from there. Rag Joint is a slang term for steering coupler.
~grizz
See now that is something I did check first but that seems as tight as needed. Seems all my play is that gear box.
As far as ball joints do I have to get all new centerlink and tie rod end for them? What do I do for just ball joints so I know its all new up front. I just ordered a gear box anyway so I guess i'll do that anyway.
look at the piece that goes between the steering gear input shaft and the steering column...this is were the term "Rag" come froms...it is a piece of fabric...here you will be able to see if it has lost its rigidity...lot's of people don't go far enough down to check this out. I thought my slop issue was my steering box too...but, with some help from here, I was able to replace the rag joint (which was way cheaper then the other) and it SOLVED MY ISSUE...same thing as you, I thought all was good until I actually crawled into the space and put my eyeballs on it. Here is a 3 minute deal to see if there is an issue, if so fix it...took like 10 minutes.
Didn't find much for the 4x4 power steering part numbers but maybe I read that all wrong. overall what I figure after all this is im goin to autozone an gettin one as many said they did for cheap and worked fine. Not going to be doing much with the truck just want to be able to stay in my lane. And see if it works and then start going downt he line on steering parts.
Also: Any idea what I have to do for all new ball joints for the tie rod and center link? Or do I have to buy all new arms to do this.
For steering parts, you'll have trouble finding the power assist stuff at any parts chain stores. You'll have to start with places who specialize in steering products like the link below. The original parts can also be rebuilt by professionals, but also plan on spending some cash.
That's one main reason why the power steering conversion using 78/79 F250 4x4 parts are popular, but just requires some modification or you can get a conversion kit made up but still around $1100.
not to hijack the thread, posted in a few other threads. my truck has really sloppy steering, thing is i know what it is, its the little u joint in the steering shaft from the column to the rag joint. rag joint is fine almost looks new. truck is a 78 f150 4x4 WITHOUT power steering
on your steering, check the link/shaft between the steering column and the steering gear box, it's probably shot
there is an aftermarket replacement.............only, flaming river or torrington about $200
ummmm...a new rag joint will set you back about $20 and it's not a difficult repair...you might need a grinder to cut the factory rivets...but it goes really quick.
imo....of course
search this forum for "Rag Joint"
Good Luck!!
~grizz
there is no rag joint on 76 250 "highboy" with power assist steering, it is a slip shaft universal from factory, that slip shaft is obsolete/unavailable for several years, that is why I used the aftermarket
Thank God glad to read that cause it was nothing like explained before. So I van get that shaft and you think it will help a lot of the slop. Or do I just go w a new steering box.