oil cooler?
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From: Hope,in
oil cooler?
I have a 1990 ford with the 7.3 idi....been trying to get it running for a while, at one time i tried to use the block heater to get enough heat to get it to start, and to my supprise all the coolant went into the oil pan...never started...so i drained the oil and put fresh oil in it, i have the radiator out now and was trying to start it today and noticed oil coming out of the bottom neck where the rad hose would go...still never started..........could this be the oil cooler? it has new head gaskets on it
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From: Hope,in
the guy i bought it from, i took the whole front apart to check the time, he had the ip pump 2 teeth off but the crank and cam were still in time, i might pop the valve covers off tomorrow and check the valve train, wont even start on ether at this point, i tried ether and a combo of ether and silicone spray, and both would start my old gm 6.2
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From: Hope,in
before i spend alot of time and money to fix the oil cooler i want to hera the thing fire up, even if just for a second... i want to know that i got potential in this engine... the temp will be around 50 tomorrow and i might spen the 80 bucks and throw some glow plugs in it
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
this post has me guessing a lot now. Everytime i read it, i get more and more confused. What fluids are in the truck, does the GP system work, and holy crap batman, its a coolant heater you are plugging in, no wonder it wont start!
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From: Hope,in
yes there are glow plugs in it....i aint sure if they work or not....there is no coolant at this time, i am trying to get it to start with the bare essentials...the block heater is junk...it leaks too hahahahahaha....before i fix all this **** i want ot get it to run
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From: Hope,in
ok i got the valve cover off and i see the torque spec is 20 ftlbs, is that with the valves closed i take it, i can turn all the pushrods fairly easily, the inside of the block is amazingly pretty clean, the heads are clean, my confidence that this engine will run is building
Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Fast test on glow plugs.
Use an automotive test light, ground clip on the positive battery terminal.
Remove the glow plug harness wire clip and touch the test light tip to the glow plug terminal.
Light lights, glow plug is probably good.
Light does not light, the glow plug is bad.
Repeat for each of the glow plugs.
Replace any burnt glow plugs with Motorcraft/Beru ZD 9 plugs.
Better test, use an ohm meter.
Again remove the glow plug electrical connection.
One tip on the glow plug barrel the other on the glow plug electrical terminal.
You are looking for .5 to 1 ohm resistance.
Resistance over 1 ohm means the controller will short cycle the plugs.
Open circuit means the plug is burnt out.
Use an automotive test light, ground clip on the positive battery terminal.
Remove the glow plug harness wire clip and touch the test light tip to the glow plug terminal.
Light lights, glow plug is probably good.
Light does not light, the glow plug is bad.
Repeat for each of the glow plugs.
Replace any burnt glow plugs with Motorcraft/Beru ZD 9 plugs.
Better test, use an ohm meter.
Again remove the glow plug electrical connection.
One tip on the glow plug barrel the other on the glow plug electrical terminal.
You are looking for .5 to 1 ohm resistance.
Resistance over 1 ohm means the controller will short cycle the plugs.
Open circuit means the plug is burnt out.
Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
When you turn the key to on, all three wires should have power on a cold engine.
When the engine temp goes above 112 degrees, the timing advance (rear connector drivers side and the fast idle solenoid on the passenger side) will loose power.
With a hot engine, only the fuel shut off solenoid will have power with the key on.
When the engine temp goes above 112 degrees, the timing advance (rear connector drivers side and the fast idle solenoid on the passenger side) will loose power.
With a hot engine, only the fuel shut off solenoid will have power with the key on.
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From: Hope,in
ok update...i got the oil cooler off and was pissed to see one end only had ONE o ring in it....duh wonder why oil was pouring into the cooling system and coolant pouring into the oil system ....now i need to find the o ring kit