2003 Escape CV axle
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Ann Arbor
2003 Escape CV axle
I have a 2003 V6 4WD Escape Limited with approx 124K mi.
I recently noticed a grinding sound coming from the drivers side front wheel area. I did my research and concluded it was the wheel bearing. I also have a slight leak on the seal between this CV and tranny so I planned to handle both at the same time. I ordered a new bearing and hub along with the tranny seal from Rock Auto and was going to tie into this today.
I could not detect any undue wheel motion when the front end was on jack stands and upon closer investigation, I found a fair amount fresh CV grease on the inner CV joint boot where in fact there was a slight rip in the boot about 3/8" long. So at this time I figure it best to replace the entire shaft.
I searched Rock Auto and found they offer 3 brands of CV shafts. One is a Carone, the other is a AUP (Automotive Undercar Products) and the last one is a Motorcraft which is approx 6x as expensive as the other two choices.
My questions are as follows: Does anyone have any experience with either the Carone or AUP products? If so how does their quality compare? Finally, does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding this undertaking or recommendations of alternative parts? I am a bit concerned about getting the shaft off the tranny and then new seal properly installed.
Thank you all for your help with this one!
I recently noticed a grinding sound coming from the drivers side front wheel area. I did my research and concluded it was the wheel bearing. I also have a slight leak on the seal between this CV and tranny so I planned to handle both at the same time. I ordered a new bearing and hub along with the tranny seal from Rock Auto and was going to tie into this today.
I could not detect any undue wheel motion when the front end was on jack stands and upon closer investigation, I found a fair amount fresh CV grease on the inner CV joint boot where in fact there was a slight rip in the boot about 3/8" long. So at this time I figure it best to replace the entire shaft.
I searched Rock Auto and found they offer 3 brands of CV shafts. One is a Carone, the other is a AUP (Automotive Undercar Products) and the last one is a Motorcraft which is approx 6x as expensive as the other two choices.
My questions are as follows: Does anyone have any experience with either the Carone or AUP products? If so how does their quality compare? Finally, does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding this undertaking or recommendations of alternative parts? I am a bit concerned about getting the shaft off the tranny and then new seal properly installed.
Thank you all for your help with this one!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Probably the brand is Cardone, with a d.
They offer a lifetime warranty, but it is up to the retailer to pass it on to you or not. The retail price will include a premium for the warranty, but it is the same unit if you buy it w/o the warranty.
You could just get a new boot and install that unless your mileage indicates a replacement. Once you have it out, doing the boot is not that bad of a process, just messy because of the high pressure grease that is packed into the CV joint.
The Motorcraft would be brand new, I'd think. I don't know AUP at all.
tom
They offer a lifetime warranty, but it is up to the retailer to pass it on to you or not. The retail price will include a premium for the warranty, but it is the same unit if you buy it w/o the warranty.
You could just get a new boot and install that unless your mileage indicates a replacement. Once you have it out, doing the boot is not that bad of a process, just messy because of the high pressure grease that is packed into the CV joint.
The Motorcraft would be brand new, I'd think. I don't know AUP at all.
tom
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From: Ann Arbor
Thanks for the input Tomw.
You are correct it is Cardone. My mistake. I ended up running down to Advanced Auto and picking up one for $70. It is a GSP. I figured with 124K on the clock, it was best to replace it. Ran out of time tonight as we have a party to go to, but pulled off the calipers, rotor and axle nut and lubed everything up with PB Blaster so hopefully everything will come apart without having to bust any knuckles tomorrow. Let's hope so anyway.
I am concerned about pressing the bearings out. I bought a press kit from Harbor Freight - but if I get into trouble, I will see if I can find a machine shop to help out.
Thanks again!
You are correct it is Cardone. My mistake. I ended up running down to Advanced Auto and picking up one for $70. It is a GSP. I figured with 124K on the clock, it was best to replace it. Ran out of time tonight as we have a party to go to, but pulled off the calipers, rotor and axle nut and lubed everything up with PB Blaster so hopefully everything will come apart without having to bust any knuckles tomorrow. Let's hope so anyway.
I am concerned about pressing the bearings out. I bought a press kit from Harbor Freight - but if I get into trouble, I will see if I can find a machine shop to help out.
Thanks again!
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
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I bought mine at advance for my 2006 and it so far as been great .I paid 55.00 as i used a coupon and it was a new one not re-manufactured it is a gsp came with tone ring installed which is why i replaced it in the first place .I also have 124 on the clock....................
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,511
Likes: 9
From: hinckley ohio
If you are doing your wheel bearing I would use a timkin or moog only.On Rock auto there is a wiki link on how to replace the wheel bearing useing a slide hammer and wheel bearing pulling kit.
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Freshman User
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From: Ann Arbor
Hey everyone. Thanks for the input!!
I completed the task. New Timken wheel bearing and hub assy, New GSP axle assy, new Timken tranny seal. Removing the old bearing was tricky but I found that when I lubed up the threads and wear surfaces of the "bearing adapter" (from Harbor Freight), heated up the old bearing and surrounding area with a torch and then tapped the side of the steering knuckle while applying force with the bearing adapter, it came out fine.
Putting the new seal in the tranny was a challenge but a little ingenuity using parts from the slide hammer and the bearing adapter kit plus a helping hand from a friend, I was able to properly seat the new seal just fine.
I rented some tools from O'Reilly's but got every dime back when I returned them.
I took the Escape out for a drive tonight and what a difference. I figured I saved about $300-$400 by doing this myself and I know it was done right so it should last a good while. Actually this was kind of fun!
I completed the task. New Timken wheel bearing and hub assy, New GSP axle assy, new Timken tranny seal. Removing the old bearing was tricky but I found that when I lubed up the threads and wear surfaces of the "bearing adapter" (from Harbor Freight), heated up the old bearing and surrounding area with a torch and then tapped the side of the steering knuckle while applying force with the bearing adapter, it came out fine.
Putting the new seal in the tranny was a challenge but a little ingenuity using parts from the slide hammer and the bearing adapter kit plus a helping hand from a friend, I was able to properly seat the new seal just fine.
I rented some tools from O'Reilly's but got every dime back when I returned them.
I took the Escape out for a drive tonight and what a difference. I figured I saved about $300-$400 by doing this myself and I know it was done right so it should last a good while. Actually this was kind of fun!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,511
Likes: 9
From: hinckley ohio
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Georgia
Joe...did you re-use the metal locking plate that covers the factory seal? I replaced my seal about 1 year ago and trashed the plate trying to get it off. The new seal didn't come with one so I saw no need for it. Now it is leaking again and actually appears the seal has been wallowed out bigger than the shaft now creating a small gap around it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Ann Arbor
Update to everyone.
It has been not quite a 2 years since I replaced the axle shaft. I was changing oil today and inspected everything underneath as I usually do. I was shocked to find the outer CV boot on the axle shaft I installed cracked and rotted and no longer holding grease. I advise everyone to stay away from the GSP axle shafts from Advance Auto Parts. This boot should have lasted well beyond now. Since the shaft is still fairly new (under 33K miles) I am going to try to get by with a replacement boot. Thought you all should be aware of the sub par rubber being used on the axle shaft boots from Advance Auto.
It has been not quite a 2 years since I replaced the axle shaft. I was changing oil today and inspected everything underneath as I usually do. I was shocked to find the outer CV boot on the axle shaft I installed cracked and rotted and no longer holding grease. I advise everyone to stay away from the GSP axle shafts from Advance Auto Parts. This boot should have lasted well beyond now. Since the shaft is still fairly new (under 33K miles) I am going to try to get by with a replacement boot. Thought you all should be aware of the sub par rubber being used on the axle shaft boots from Advance Auto.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Many of the parts Advance sells have a lifetime warranty. If you kept the receipt, you can check if it is still warranted. If not, you might be able to get them to check their records to see if they can print another copy of the receipt. Too bad the boot failed, as many are made of good materials that will last for decades. Both of the boots on my old Sable wagon have failed. They look as if they were slit from side to side with a knife, but I have no idea why anyone would do that.
I tried a boot that you can install without removing the axle, but it seemed to fling the grease out through the seam, so I got it replaced with a complete new axle as it had about 175k on it. The boot failed, and was warranted, but I had to pay for the R&R labor. That boot was in fine shape until it was sliced.
tom
I tried a boot that you can install without removing the axle, but it seemed to fling the grease out through the seam, so I got it replaced with a complete new axle as it had about 175k on it. The boot failed, and was warranted, but I had to pay for the R&R labor. That boot was in fine shape until it was sliced.
tom
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