When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So i have a vibration in my 94 that i cannot find and am hoping it is not in the tranny. Anyway at 35mph if you are just coasting or just into the throttle enough to mantain speed it will start shaking the whole truck terribly. As soon as you give it enough gas to pick up speed it is gone and drives perfect. This truck does this same thing at 55mph. I have changed the u-joints in the rear drive line. The u-joint coming out of the transfer case feels soild. Could a frozen u-joint at the t-case cause this? It does this in 2wd, 4wd and 2wd with hubs locked in. Also one more thing. The 4X4 light is stuck on could this be linked to anything?
I'm might be experiencing the same thing......not violent though but very noticeable. It's not an up/down shake like a tire but a forward/backward, if that makes sense. I doubt it's a u-joint as they are worst under load. You mention 2 speeds, I'm not sure of the speeds on mine but it occurs in both 3rd lock and 4th lock (E40D) at exactly the same RPM. Up or down even just a smidge and it's gone.
I only feel it during moderate acceleration, not coasting. Under heavy acceleration I think I pass over the shake RPM to quickly for it to be noticeable.
check your transmission mount and if you have the two piece driveline, check/replace the steady joint. if its worn out, it will shake a lot. Its design is to steady and hold the driveline in place and absorb the vibration. If you dont have the two piece then it is probably the driveline itself, the trans mount, or possibly loose/worn yoke on the rear diff.
how bout tires, i guess it would be possible that you threw a weight. not likely but entiraly possible. how bout snow or mud packed in a rim. also check your hubs, make sure theres no play in the wheel bearings. your hitting a harmonic somewhere in driveline. also your driveshaft could be out of balence. did it start before or after you did u joints.
so here is what i have found out. Rear Yoke is Done, the steady point is shot, i can move the driveline up and down 3/4in without even trying. I am in the process of swaping right now with my parts truck. I got the nut off the rear yoke and thought those just slid right out. Am i missing something or do i need to beat the yoke out.
i had something kinda like this the other day but it would do it in park also, i had alot of snow/ice around the transfercase. i could feel the vibration under my feet kinda up the firewall.
so just found out that the drive shafts are different lengths from my 91 to my 94. I have the entire drive shafts out of both vehicle and want to swap the steady joint. How do you get this off?
Ya i am going to take it to a shop. I called them and they said $35. In my opinon that is pretty tough to beat when i know i would fight it and fight it, wasting a whole day and then taking it to them anyway. On my yoke on the rear diff on of the tabs that holds the u-joint centered is almost go. I took the nut off but cant get the yoke out. Is there a trick or do i need a puller or some specialty tool for this.
I noticed this summer something similar in my motorhome, it would only do it at speeds over 70mph!
The driver side front tire would start bouncing up and down very quick and very violently! It's well balanced and everything. I never bothered it much, since it's really rare I'll go over 60 in the camper anyways, but still, now that i'm thinking of it, I'm wondering what the heck can it be?
another question. With the driveshaft out the bearing spins very smooth and has no play. With the driveshaft in i can push it up about 3/4in. I think that just the rubber is bad. does this mean replace the carrier bearing or could all this vibration be coming from just the rear yoke
I think your problem is the carrier bearing and mount.
And when you replace it and put the drive shaft back in, use a string line to get it as straight as possible front to back.
Puller to get the rear yoke off unless it is well worn.
Someone may have put a little RTV on the shaft when it was installed for a better seal on the pinion shaft.
So i have been looking at carrier bearings/center support bearings and have found them from $7-$50. I never like going with the cheapest parts but why would these be so different