STOP THE DOOR RATTLE
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 8
From: North Carolina
Thanks Frankilin and 116, that's really good to know. I'll be glad to not have to slam anymore.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Southwest Iowa
Galendor,
I believe the "star" shape you are referring to is a TORX type head. Try and find the right bit to remove it or you can damage the head make it difficult to remove (do not ask me how I learned this).
Erik
'85 F150 XLT/Lariat
300-6 4sp OD trans
I believe the "star" shape you are referring to is a TORX type head. Try and find the right bit to remove it or you can damage the head make it difficult to remove (do not ask me how I learned this).
Erik
'85 F150 XLT/Lariat
300-6 4sp OD trans
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 8
From: North Carolina
Thanks EGR and Ebodel, Torx bit, got it. Er, I mean I don't have it but will buy one. No matter how many tools you have, you never seem to have them all.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
From: Australia
What wall thickness are we talking. It'd be far more cost effective for me to use your method than to try bringing in the proper bushes from the states.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 184
Likes: 1
From: Strasburg, Va.
I just put mine on, I used standard 1/2" inner diameter pvc pipe( looks to be about 3/32-1/8" wall thickness). I thought it might be too thick, but I had it out in the shed. I couldn't get the washer off, so I cut a slit down the lenght of the pipe about an 1/8" wide flared out at one end, stretched it with a flathead screw driver's 1/2" head, set the flared end on and slid out the driver and pushed the rest on( I guess Franklin2's suggestion of using flexline would have been better, but this is what I had). Makes a huge difference, thanks Franklin!!
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
I thought PVC pipe might be too brittle to use(and too thick also) but I am not against anything so long as it works ok. The stuff I used was the thinwall 1/2 flexible stuff, I think they used to call it "PEX" but after it leaked in everyone's house they re-did it and changed the name. It's the pipe that you use the barbs and the bands with the special tool.
Just the plain nylon tubing should work also. I didn't go to the trouble of taking the door piece apart. I cut the pipe to length, then slit it down the side and snapped it over the pin. It's been about a year now and it hasn't fallen off yet. No torx bits needed.
Just the plain nylon tubing should work also. I didn't go to the trouble of taking the door piece apart. I cut the pipe to length, then slit it down the side and snapped it over the pin. It's been about a year now and it hasn't fallen off yet. No torx bits needed.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 8
From: North Carolina
Lowes of course didn't sell individual Torx drivers. So I had to buy a little set of them which cost more $$$ than the door strikers. Oh well, now I have a torx set and can die content knowing that.
Good advice on using hardware store tubing for the bushings. I'll do that next time. But since I already bought new striker posts and a torx bit set, I'm gonna use 'em.
Question: what exactly should one "mark with a pen" before removing the old striker? Trace a tight circle on the truck surface around the washer that forms the base of the original striker before removing, I assume?
Good advice on using hardware store tubing for the bushings. I'll do that next time. But since I already bought new striker posts and a torx bit set, I'm gonna use 'em.
Question: what exactly should one "mark with a pen" before removing the old striker? Trace a tight circle on the truck surface around the washer that forms the base of the original striker before removing, I assume?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,509
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From: Wagener, SC
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
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From: Virginia
Yes, that hole where it mounts in the body is very sloppy so you can adjust the door. So you need to mark it if you don't want to mess with re-aligning it.
If after you get the bushings in place and your door is still a little hard to close, stare at the back of the door while you shut it. If it's lifting up a little bit, your hinge bushings are worn. Instead of going to the trouble of replacing the hinge bushings, I usually just loosen the hinge up front and jack the rear of the door up a little bit. But the last time I tried to do that on one of these trucks, I couldn't get to the bolts to get them loose, and broke my 1/4 universal, so I gave up and just inserted washers between the door and lower hinge mount, to push the rear of the door up. Fixed it right up.
If after you get the bushings in place and your door is still a little hard to close, stare at the back of the door while you shut it. If it's lifting up a little bit, your hinge bushings are worn. Instead of going to the trouble of replacing the hinge bushings, I usually just loosen the hinge up front and jack the rear of the door up a little bit. But the last time I tried to do that on one of these trucks, I couldn't get to the bolts to get them loose, and broke my 1/4 universal, so I gave up and just inserted washers between the door and lower hinge mount, to push the rear of the door up. Fixed it right up.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 4
From: Johns Creek GA
First of all....thank you, chickade116, for posting about this; I've got rattling, hard to close doors as well, and I am looking forward to getting them fixed - they're one of the reasons my wife hates my truck. 
Now...as for the striker bolts, what holds them on the back side of the door frame? My new bushings will be in today, and I'd like to fix my doors this weekend. Is there a nut back there, or some kind of clip, that I have to worry about losing? Are there any tricks to be aware of (other than marking the original position) when taking the bolts out?
Now...as for the striker bolts, what holds them on the back side of the door frame? My new bushings will be in today, and I'd like to fix my doors this weekend. Is there a nut back there, or some kind of clip, that I have to worry about losing? Are there any tricks to be aware of (other than marking the original position) when taking the bolts out?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 184
Likes: 1
From: Strasburg, Va.
First of all....thank you, chickade116, for posting about this; I've got rattling, hard to close doors as well, and I am looking forward to getting them fixed - they're one of the reasons my wife hates my truck.
Now...as for the striker bolts, what holds them on the back side of the door frame? My new bushings will be in today, and I'd like to fix my doors this weekend. Is there a nut back there, or some kind of clip, that I have to worry about losing? Are there any tricks to be aware of (other than marking the original position) when taking the bolts out?
Now...as for the striker bolts, what holds them on the back side of the door frame? My new bushings will be in today, and I'd like to fix my doors this weekend. Is there a nut back there, or some kind of clip, that I have to worry about losing? Are there any tricks to be aware of (other than marking the original position) when taking the bolts out?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 4
From: Johns Creek GA
That's exactly what I was worried about...thanks!