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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H

Since you can't get all of the distilled water out, even after you pull the block drain plugs one each side of the block, when you add concentrated ELC, it will mix with the remaining distilled water, creating an almost perfect 50/50 mix.

Stewart
Are you sure about that? The system holds almost 8 gals of coolant total and I found after pulling the engine and turning it upside down there was only maybe a quart left after pulling block drains...

A coolant flush is something I have NEVER been comfortable letting a shop do - I know that radiators, heater cores, waterpumps and t-stats can last a LOOOOOONG time (almost forever??) if you properly maintain a cooling system. It is the deposits that form from tapwater and low Ph from not changing traditional antifreeze that likely do the most damage.

Fwiw, I use pre-mixed CAT ELC ($10/gal at CAT) in the X and EVANS NPG+ in the F350.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #17  
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I put about 6 gallons total in mine after flushing and NOT removing the block plugs. Figured it was more trouble than it was worth. I just kept filling and emptying it out the rad drain...
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 10:47 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
I put about 6 gallons total in mine after flushing and NOT removing the block plugs. Figured it was more trouble than it was worth. I just kept filling and emptying it out the rad drain...
Thats different, the block holds over a gallon.

Since you can't get all of the distilled water out, even after you pull the block drain plugs one each side of the block, when you add concentrated ELC, it will mix with the remaining distilled water, creating an almost perfect 50/50 mix.
I wouldn't call it a good flush without removing the block drains!! Now when I help someone do a coolant flush - I put a petcock valve on the pass-side because that fitting over the starter is a PITA for me...


Aside from using ALOT more water to end up with a compromised 'flush' - I'd still be concerned about adding 6gals of 'concentrate' to a (less than) 8 gal system. Otherwise, as long as the previous coolant DID NOT have SCA's (leaving particulates in the system) - and you were going back to same coolant - I guess a TOTAL flush of the system isn't really necessary. Of course, I admit I am kinda **** about stuff like that. (I also change my brake fluid regularly, but stop short of changing the air in the tires ) THE reason I work on my own junk is I want it to last forever!!!!!!!

on edit: AND I don't like working on my stuff when its BROKEN - its much less painful to do PM!!!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #19  
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Put a spoonful of sand in a bottle full of water and tell me how many gallons ya have to pour into the bottle to get the sand out. There is no way to remove these particulates (fallout from SCA's) from the block without pulling those drains...
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #20  
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Didn't do the VC-9 route. Thanks.
On another note, does a shops reverse flush machine get the odl coolent or what ever out of the engine block too?
Thanks for your replies Stewart........ a & J
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:05 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by anjcohen
On another note, does a shops reverse flush machine get the odl coolent or what ever out of the engine block too?
Not sure what the 'machine' does - but there is in no way it is a substitute for pulling the block drains. See my example of sand in a bottle above - I don't care how much water/coolant/snake oil you 'flush' thru the block - you can't push the sandy-looking stuff that falls out from spent SCA's UP and out of the lower part of the block. (thats why there are block drains ) Plus, there will be over a gallon of liquid still in the block...
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:20 PM
  #22  
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I believe what you are saying but I am unable to perform work. I specifically asked shop as I just got off the phone in regarding residual left in block. He stated that they use that reverse flush system and they get everything out....yadie, yadie...

Anyway, I need to find someone in the future to do the recommended way. The truck only has 84K in it and now with new coolant (Fleet ELC HD) so at least that is the good part for now.

So darn limited with this broken up back of mine.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:37 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Are you sure about that? The system holds almost 8 gals of coolant total and I found after pulling the engine and turning it upside down there was only maybe a quart left after pulling block drains...
Turning it upside down....LOLOLOL!


Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
I wouldn't call it a good flush without removing the block drains!! Now when I help someone do a coolant flush - I put a petcock valve on the pass-side because that fitting over the starter is a PITA for me...
It takes a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong time to properly flush the engine if the block plugs aren't pulled.

I'm not sure if my post was misunderstood or not, but for clarity sake, all I was saying was even after the block plugs are pulled, and the block is drained, there's still almost 4 gallons of distilled water in the engine.


I'd still be concerned about adding 6gals of 'concentrate' to a (less than) 8 gal system.
Not sure if anyone would ever do that since it goes against all logical sense when one is trying to create a 50/50 mix.

When I did my Excursion, it took a looooooooong time to get the green coolant completely and totally flushed. I ran the garden hose for hours (literally hours) with the engine running and no thermo to get all traces of coolant flushed out. I then flushed all the tap water out with, IIRC, 4 flushes of distilled. Then, after I pulled the block plugs and drained the rad, it took just a hair over 4 gallons of ELC to fill her up.

However, when I did my F250, when it came time to fill with the coolant, I put in just a tad over 4 gallons and could see she was gonna take a lot more, so I diluted the concentrated ELC with distilled water, creating a 50/50 mix and then continued filling my truck.

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by anjcohen
I believe what you are saying but I am unable to perform work. I specifically asked shop as I just got off the phone in regarding residual left in block. He stated that they use that reverse flush system and they get everything out....yadie, yadie...
Yeah, that's why it's called a back flush.

Even when we do it in our driveway using the Prestone T, the water is flushed in reverse flow.

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #25  
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Stewart,

Well, just got back from the shop. As part of the overall service as mentioned I had the coolant (gold) in my 2003 7.3L with 84K flushed out. No they did not undo the block drain bolts and used flush system.
1. Yes they used distilled H2O but only in the 50/50 process with new ELC HD (red) as I instructed.

2. I was told I had some ELC left and it was in the inside of the truck in jug. Now this is the real problem and need advice:

Out of the 4 gallons I gave them there is a whole, yes, 1 gallon not used! So thats a whole gallon our of 4 !!!
So I assume there was a whole gallon of old gold / water that remained in the block.

My questions is this:
What happens now that old and new mix?
Should I get a real flush including block drain bolts removed from another shop?

The shop manager told me "they do the block drain once in a while for the 6.0's when they have problems but even then they can't get it all out...bla, bla..."

I was pissed and left shaking my head and when I saw a whole gallon of the fleet ELC my blood pressure went up.

Anyway, any advice would be helpful,
Thanks

p.s. yes they used new gaskets for the needle bearing packings.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by anjcohen
Stewart,

So I assume there was a whole gallon of old gold / water that remained in the block.
It depends on how long and how well they flushed. If they did a good job, your block may have had all the Gold flushed out and only had tap water remaining.

My questions is this:
What happens now that old and new mix?
First, you can't assume there was still old coolant remaining in your block. It could have just been water only. But, if they didn't flush long enough, and there trace amounts of old coolant remaing, it's probably a safe bet it wasn't much.

Depending on where you live (is your climate really hot? Really cold?), it probably won't be a big deal for you.

As for the left over ELC, that's because they didn't pull your block plugs and drain the block before refilling. So you just had more water in the engine to start with.

Should I get a real flush including block drain bolts removed from another shop?
Seriously, my opinion reflects that which has already been given by others in this thread, that being: Ya want it done right, ya do it yourself. Or at least have a friend come over and help you if you can't for whatever reason.

Where are you located bro? Are you near Monterey, CA? I could do this for you in my sleep in a couple hours. Quicker actually, since you've already had it done once. All I'd need to do is drain everything and flush a few times with distilled water, then refill with ELC.

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #27  
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Thanks Stewart for the offer but I live in Eastern Washington State. We have extreme weathers here. Winter could get down to below zero and summer above 100.
I will check the Washington State chapter here. Maybe someone needs a few $$ to do the flush. Hell, I hate having lost money but that is what I did in my opinion.
Oh, is there a way to test coolant now for proper mixture ratio, etc, etc.. with the ELC in there?
Thanks
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 07:23 AM
  #28  
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Yes, turned my engine upside down to fix oil pan leak. That engine has EVANS NPG+ and I didn't want to lose ANY - that stuff's expensive! I'm telling you that if you pull the block drains and collect all the coolant, you get over 6gals. After that, I turned the engine over and only a little more coolant came out... If you pull the drains, there is VERY little liquid left in the block. I am 100% confident that when I pour some distilled into top of water pump while drains are open, I have removed 99.99% of EVERYTHING that was in the block and replaced it with distilled. It is not hard to do, I don't know why someone switching to ELC wouldn't take the time - ya shouldn't have to do it again for a loooooooong time!

If you don't pull the drains, you are trying to dilute the 4 gallons that are left if all ya do is drain the radiator. Thats why it would take HOURS to dilute the coolant in the block. Back to my dum redneck analogies, take a gallon of Coke and start pouring water in it. How many gallons did it take until it was 'clear' water in the jug? How many gallons does it take if ya dump the Coke out first?

I will check the Washington State chapter here. Maybe someone needs a few $$ to do the flush. Hell, I hate having lost money but that is what I did in my opinion.
Oh, is there a way to test coolant now for proper mixture ratio, etc, etc.. with the ELC in there?
Thanks
Yes, any 'coolant tester' can tell you what your protection level is. If its 70/30 and not enough coolant - you'll know. This is the problem with GUESSING how much residual coolant or water is in the block. I can almost tell you with certainty what they did. They hooked up their 'flushy machine' to the easiest radiator hose they had access to and ran some tap water thru it until 'mostly clean' (they don't wanna do to much, since they have to dispose of ALL the diluted coolant - legally anyway). I just thought of something - Is it 'reverse' so they don't have to pull t-stat?? Then they opened the radiator drain and let out the water that was still in there and topped it off using your 3 gals of ELC. The system TOTAL - including heater core and everything - is about 7.5 gals.

If its OK for mix, I'd be inclined to run it. Maybe plan on 'doing it right' when ya need a waterpump, hose or something. Failure is not eminent. People get away with much worse all the time. My methods may be silly to some people, but I sleep good - even when I'm 1000's of miles from home in MY trucks!
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:53 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for your reply. I will attempt to address your concerns / remarks.

1. I had to use a shop because I am partially disabled at age 54 as I was injured as a police officer. So believe me this one time "macho" guy's heart wanted to perform the proper flush procedure as described by many on the wonderful forum but my brain (and wife who yells at me) said don't do it because the result would have been my being in more pain (never mind the wife not talking to me for days!).

2. Yes they used a reverse flush procedure

3. I had the thermostat replaced at that time

4. I had upper and lower hoses replaced too.

5. I had another local shop do that basic test on the new coolant which was -34 degrees.

Again, due to limited resources and physical abilities I was unable to perform this procedure myself. I do plan on having it done again when I find someone with the knowledge base.

I truly appreciate all the responses and patience relating toward this mechanical feat!
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 11:07 AM
  #30  
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Like Jason said you'll be fine & I'd run it until you need another repair like he said.
 
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