oil pan
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New User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 16
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haha i have alot more then a leak im losing a gallon a week i have the new pan just not so ambitious on pulling the motor the entire bottom of the pan is rotted i can put my hand through it if i wanted to ive tried all sorts of things to stop the leaks nothing has worked...i think its beyong saving...
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New User
Joined: Feb 2011
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ya ive heard of that to i definately dont want to go that route just have a bad feeling with that...ive heard of grinding the rivets out of the cross member and putting bolts back in place but theres virtually no room to get the thing out..and i also dont want to run into the trouble of trying to get it back in with such tight quarters because my luck it wont go back in...every1 has their opinions some say pulling the motor is easier some say lifting the cab..i was also thinking about undoing the cab and nose mounts and jacking the nose up leaning the cab back towards the bed not sure if ill get enough clearence to drop the pan whas your take on that idea do you know how much clearance i need to get the pan out of there?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 230
Likes: 1
From: Lower Mainland BC
I recall reading that someone who'd cut and rewelded the crossmeber didn't recommend it. That there was someone who loosened trans and motormounts and lifted motor enough to repair pan. There is also someone who sells a fiberglass cover kit with instrctions that can be installed. Hopefully you can search for these or one of the co-ordinators can find these for you.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 4
From: Gary,Indiana
Well I have had my hand in helping a friend of a friend who loosen the cab and core support and jacked it up off the frame then lifted the motor with trans cross member out. Then had to take the wheels off lower the frame so on and it just was a bad idea Long story short DON"T DO IT !!! Cutting the cross member out DON'T DO IT !!! But to each there own.
Do it the right way pull the motor. Now if you have a lift and can remove the cab and roll the frame out from under it you can lift the motor in place and replace the pan. Watched it done at the dealership. The short cut way will take DAYS the way I was talking about less than a day. Good luck. Did you get a stock pan or did you find something cool? I wanta chrome one so when I do it everyone will know I replaced it. But I can't find one, I guess I just have to have it chromed.
Do it the right way pull the motor. Now if you have a lift and can remove the cab and roll the frame out from under it you can lift the motor in place and replace the pan. Watched it done at the dealership. The short cut way will take DAYS the way I was talking about less than a day. Good luck. Did you get a stock pan or did you find something cool? I wanta chrome one so when I do it everyone will know I replaced it. But I can't find one, I guess I just have to have it chromed.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster, Pa.
Edit:: Do yourself a favor, before you put on that new pan, sand and prep that new pan with some rust-Bullet. A starter kit cost less than 25.00 bucks and you'll be golden for many many years. 
I did mine on the truck when rust bubbles under the paint kept coming back until I figured I'd just do it right. Here's my R-B pan after sanded and prepped with 3 coats. Good for 10 years 
I did mine on the truck when rust bubbles under the paint kept coming back until I figured I'd just do it right. Here's my R-B pan after sanded and prepped with 3 coats. Good for 10 years
Last edited by big poppa; Feb 6, 2011 at 05:42 PM. Reason: Pan to far gone for my previous recommendation
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Pulling the engine is not as bad as it sounds. It can be done without opening A/C system and with the hood still on. I had engine out of my truck in about 4 hrs last time (except for the clamp on the babies butt.......
).
Think of all the maintenance you'll be able to do while its out!! Change all the o-rings, $0.50 mod, etc. As well as clean and paint that x-member, detail the engine... Seriously, do it right the first time and don't worry about it ever again - it REALLY ain't so bad.
I can't imagine cutting the x-member - especially for a compromised repair.
This was to fix oil pan seal leak (15k miles on new engine...):
No, that HF 1000lb stand was NOT enough...
).Think of all the maintenance you'll be able to do while its out!! Change all the o-rings, $0.50 mod, etc. As well as clean and paint that x-member, detail the engine... Seriously, do it right the first time and don't worry about it ever again - it REALLY ain't so bad.
I can't imagine cutting the x-member - especially for a compromised repair.
This was to fix oil pan seal leak (15k miles on new engine...):
No, that HF 1000lb stand was NOT enough...
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 775
Likes: 0
From: Williamston, MI
I scuffed my new pan and coated with 2 coats of POR15. The rust is starting UNDER the original paint. Brand new OEM pan. Pulled it outta the box and coated prior to install. I would completely strip the new pan and coat with your choice of rust inhibitor.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Also, degrease and p-wash the engine a few times if ya can. It'll still be a greasy pig - but even a little bit less greasy is a good thing! Feel free to contact me if ya have any questions - I ain't no kind of expert, but I have taken my engine out a couple of times...
