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Replacing glow plugs

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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 11:48 AM
  #1  
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Replacing glow plugs

First let me say thanks for all of the useful info on this site. I am considering replacing my glow plugs but it looks like alot of stuff has to come out to do this. My question is how difficult is it to get the valve covers off. I have a 03 7.3 L with 71,xxx miles all stock original owner. I used a test light to check the gpr. It appears ok, batteries are new. But i get white smoke on startup and my mpg have dropped sharply after the temperatures dropped. I didn't see any step by step destructions for this. Any info or photos would be appreciated. I did read the Read this first winter hard starts and the directions there are for actually removing the glow plugs. Thanks agian, Barry
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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It's not hard. This should help https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pictures.html
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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I just did it the other week and it's not that hard of job. I would do the 50 cent mod will you have the covers off, but I would also recommend that you ohm out your GPs, 71K is not many miles, I've got 180K on mine and this was the first year I had any problems.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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thanks that exactly what i needed
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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My Excursion has over 240k and GP's still ohm out just fine.

I'd suggest a tankful of Diesel Kleen. Meanwhile, mpgs usually fall in winter due to winter-blend fuel and more idling. Let us know what ya find out!!!!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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Oh, and as far as doing GP's - you can prolly handle it. Its not a swiss watch - its a big, honkin', diesel engine. There are a couple of bolts that are a PITA, but its not really a technical project. Be sure to let us know if you do GP's, we'll give ya some other things to do/check 'while yer in there'.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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I would suggest you ohm check the indivilual glow plugs from the top of the valve cover connectors before going thru work of changing them out..
Get an ohm meter (get a digital readout), you can check your glow plugs/injectors by unconnecting the 9 pin connectors at both of the valve covers (near top edge) and use the following info:

GGIICIIGG (9 pin connector)
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms.
You can get a ohm meter for less than $20.. good investment..
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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i just checked the resistance on the GPs and the pass side are around 3.2 to 4 and the drivers side is all around 5 ohms. i gounded the meter to the neg side of pass side battery. Can anyone tell me what these numbers indicate? Are my gp ok? If they are ok what would explain all of the white smoke in the morning when the truck is cold. I garage the truck every night. When i start it in the morning i generally count to 15 and start. But several mornings it has had little power and i have had to baby it for more than a few miles. I live near kansas city and it has been cold. At the end of the day on the jobsite it starts hard chugs out white smoke. Last tankful was 8mpg? Last year i replaced the gpr year bofore i replaced it with one that was bad or went bad quickly. Any help. Thanks for you replies. Barry
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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I would make sure your ohm meter reading corrently.. buy yourself a 4 ohm resister from Radio Shack and check it..
Also, you may be getting a higher resistance reading using the ground side of the battery.. I would use the engine block or the center terminal on the connector as ground.
Have you ever try adding fuel supplement for winter into your fuel. ?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 04:22 PM
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Clint, thanks. I did the ohm check again and all of them read .8 to 1.5 My probe must have been sitting on something maybe the terminal boot? I generally use diesel kleen or sea foam as additives. I have had good luck with 2 stroke oil in the summer once i got 19 or 20 mpg on a trip to the lake, my truck doesn't figure mpg so i always calc it. Is there something else i can check. I was really convinced that i had bad glow plug(s). Before the bad weather really hit i change oil to Rotella T6 as i read here folks had good experience with it. thanks for your help Barry
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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Looks like to me like your glow plugs are OK...saved yourself a bunch of time and expense. Maybe you got some bad fuel somewhere. Just for fun check your ICP sensor for oil inside the plug.. Also make sure the tin nut on your IPR is not loose..
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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Here's my adventure when i replaced my glowplugs. I think everyone has gotten you covered but it's never too much info.

Glow Plug Install 10-10 pictures from trucks photos on webshots
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 10:08 PM
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Thanks for all of the help. The tin nut has been laying in the valley for 3-4 years. I had unsuccesfully replaced the hpop orings and when they leaked again i took it to the stealership. When i got it back i thought they had dropped that nut in there. Anyway i just returned it where it should have been. I also checked the icp plug for oil and it looked clean. Will drive the truck tomorrow see if this helped.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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If the nut has been off that long, you are lucky you haven't already had problems. Hope that does it for you.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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white smoke update

Well it was 0* outside today. When i fired up my truck to leave the jobsite it sent white smoke lofting about 600' away. It did have a glug glug sound to it too. When i ohm checked my GPs they tested good. Should i do the amp check, where do i get one of those meters? Thanks for the help the other day. I did find the tin nut in the valley not to sure if it changed anything when i put it back on. This may not have anything to do with the white smoke but my turbo sure sounds different before the motor warms up. Almost sounds like funny little sprays that turn off and on. My egpv is un hooked and the wastegate is plugged. Any help is much appreciated.
Barry
 
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