When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 68 F100 that I am slowly bringing back to life. The fuse block has been bypassed by a prior owner secondary to the connections being corroded and rusted away. I tore these out thinking a simple towing system. The block is in bad shape but the harness is in good shape. Not too much Micky Mouse stuff. I have a block from a 73 that looks brand new. The connections anyway. Now, I want to pull the fuse connectors out of the 73 block and put them in the 68 block. Should I use any special connectors for the wiring as I know resistance is important? Is this a bogus idea? I have searched both this forum and the electrical with no ideas. Gimme some thoughts. Thanks,
It might be easier to "make" a fuse block by using fuse holders for electronic equipment. There are different styles available. I made one for a Bronco using the round, push and turn to remove, fuse holders.
Well I didn't want to fool with buying a new block, Impatience! So I took the connectors out of the 73 block. They looked brand new. I wired them into my 68 and clamped them into my 68 block. Works great! I have also wired in the 73 auto column and everything works including the emergency flasher button on the column and auto selector light. The cig and dome light are not getting power at the block but that was the only wires that did not match. The 73 block had 2 yellow on green wires and the 68 had a white on blue and a yellow on green. I'm not sure but I may have not wired this correctly. I figured, What's the difference? It's the one fuse that is serial and indpendent. Maybe I got them backwards? Any thoughts from the Gurus'?
The dome light and lighter are fed from the same fuse. It is a 9 Amp fuse. There will be two wires coming off the output of the fuse. The green w/yellow stripe goes to the light switch to power the dome light. The blue w/white stripe wire that goes to the lighter.
Input to that fuse is a big black w/yellow stripe wire. It is jumpered with a big yellow wire from the ignition switch and a black w/orange stripe that goes to the light switch.
Last edited by 1968F250LWB; Mar 11, 2003 at 07:53 PM.
Someone once posted about putting in a complete wire harness and fuse block from a late model Lincoln. I have since searched for these thread and have had no luck retrieving them. What I would like to know is what years I can use and weather I need the Continental or the Town Car.
I have a source on a cmplete and intact harness for a 91 Town Car. They want $250 for it. Every bit of it is covered in split loom (which is a hassle, but is nice once installed) and even has the bulbs still.
I know Autozone isn't always the best place, but I saw a universal 12 circuit Painless harness with a new "chip" style fuse box for $186.00 yesterday. I may end up doing the same thing in my '68. Soooo, I am very interested in what works out the best for you. Good luck!
Thanks for the info. Are you stationed at Fort Huachuca? My dad was staioned there in the early 80s and I went to Buena High. Is that place still a one stop light town? you can reply to my e-mail mkpj1(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
Thanks, your right. I coudn't remember right. I was thinking the two yellow on green went to the opposite sides of the fuse. I went under there today and found everything. The prior owner rewired around everything. Even the cigarette lighter. He/she put a toggle for the dome. It was a lot of work for this person and they did a good job considering there was no FTE around to asssist them. Well everything is wired up right and working. One thing though. I had what appeared to be a blue on black that fed my dome out of the light switch. Thanks for your help.
I replaced my old one with a painless 12 circuit fuse panel. It was a easy swap over and everything works great, I did this because of a computer controled engine swap. I think I payed like $60, but I work at a shop and get parts at jobber prices. If you go this route and need help let me know.
Robert
72 F100 Ranger XLT W/ 86 5.0L EFI W/ AOD www.geocities.com/krazdndenver