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If your going to do the work yourself, I would begin by purchasing the atsg service manual and also the update manual. Then I would read everything you can on the subject. I have found that automatic transmissions aren't any harder to work on then engines. In fact they are at times easier. There is no machining to do and with the purchase of just a few specialised tools a home mechanic can rebuild a transmission. By taking your time and being especially meticulous about cleanliness, its a project that can be done. Most of the time our transmissions play out at very inopportune times and we are under the gun to get the truck back on the road. This can lead to rushing the job and something either being installed incorrectly or a dirty build that eats itself up. Ok off my soapbox.
In your case, it sounds like you've got a good shop there. Most shops will detect a code 62 and immediately jump to a bad converter clutch. Yours actually stated the problem correctly. The computer detected a slip which could be any number of things. Needless to say, prolonged running in a slip condition will eventually lead to something melting down due to a fluid breakdown or just warn out parts. A code 62 could indeed be a bad converter lock-up clutch, but it could also be a bad direct or forward clutch. What engine do you have?
7.3 TURBO DESIEL i do not have the shop or the time to do it myself and i dont mind paying I just want the toughest tranny i can get I like the sounds of the one guy saying won't have to rebuild again untill 650,000
7.3 TURBO DESIEL i do not have the shop or the time to do it myself and i dont mind paying I just want the toughest tranny i can get I like the sounds of the one guy saying won't have to rebuild again untill 650,000
That was me and I was meaning I can get to 650,000 from my present 350,000 without another rebuild unless something catastrophic happens.
Personally if your left leg is in good shape I would suggest a 5 speed, that's what it looks like I'm going to do with mine, It refuses to shift early enough for me (1/4 throttle and it waits until 3000-3200 to shift).
Its the E4OD logic that sucks...not the actual trans. Came from Ford shifting too soft.
If you've ever driven a high power diesel with a tuned motor/e4od...the potential of the transmission is high. It can and will shift mean...if you tell it how to.
Looks like the best bet is find a tuning solution for trans. only (Baumann) or play with the shift points from any binary editor tuning solution.
I'm actually almost done collecting all the parts for mine. I have a few more to get...
Could you post up your parts list or maybe a stand alone thread with mfgs & possibly prices? I'm working on my own, but haven't done quite the in-depth research you recomend (I've done some) with the documentation.
I do know that shift firmness is very programmable. Shift timing on the other hand is all controlled by the computer.
That's why you get an aftermarket controller like that Baumann Engineering unit - then you can program your own shift points, and IIRC you can also run two shift schedules that you can switch between with just a push of a button. Add to that the ability to manually shift with the steering wheel cruise control buttons, and the thing gets all that more appealing. Least to me that is...
That's why you get an aftermarket controller like that Baumann Engineering unit - then you can program your own shift points, and IIRC you can also run two shift schedules that you can switch between with just a push of a button. Add to that the ability to manually shift with the steering wheel cruise control buttons, and the thing gets all that more appealing. Least to me that is...
Definitely a good product but its not cheap. The controller is $450 plus a wiring harness at $150. If you need it I guess its the way to go.
forward and reverse pressure plates (reduced thickness to allow one extra clutch)
Bushing kit
Torrington bearing kit
Thrust washer kit
Overdrive pressure plate (reduced thickness for one extra clutch)
Main Pressure regulator spring (Sonnax #36424-10A)
Torque Converter nuts (4)
Overdrive Band
Center support update kit
Torque Converter
Lower Roller Clutch
Accumulator Spring Kit (Sonnax #36948-18K)
Overdrive Roller Clutch upgrade
Overdrive Roller Clutch
Intermediate 45 Element Sprag
4-Pinion overdrive and shaft (Steel with shortened shaft)
6-pinion front planet&hub (Steel)
6-pinion rear planet & ring gear (Steel)
F5 Rebuilt pump
Deep Oil pan with plug/4wd
Sonnax Sure Cure (Sonnax #SC-E4OD)
Hardened Sun gear shell ( new style)
Transmission band servo piston (new style)
Trans filter clip
Thats the list, let me explain some. The reduced thickness clutch plates for the forward, direct, and overdrive clutch packs are just old school solutions. We used to do that for our drag cars. It essentially increases the overdrive clutch surface by 1/3 though. Of course the torrington bearings, bushings, and thrust washer replacement are just cheap insurance. The bearings and bushings really can get some wear and replacing them is just good practice. All the Sonnax parts are just their way of fixing/modifying the unit to get it to perform the way it needs to. The Sure Cure parts solve many of the issues for the E4OD permanently. I've added the pdf of the instructions so you can see. The real heavy duty replacement parts are listed next the sprags are all upgrades and the planetary's are all the most you can get. If you can't afford all of them the one to be sure to get is the Overdrive planet and shaft. Since its the input to the transmission it takes all the pressure. The aluminum gears they replace are all hot spots for failures. So getting rid of them will really make a difference. If you're like me and have a 89-94 unit you'll want the F5 casting pump as its output is greater and the parts from the Sure Cure address the rest of the pumps needs. If you have a 2wd unit you'll want the 4wd pan with a plug to add some fluid capacity and also make future fluid changes much much easier. The hardened sun gear is really not a have to have but if yours is warn it will need replaced and the new style eliminates the need for number 8 thrust washer. The band servo is really just a nicety as it makes install of the servo much easier. Its less then $10 anyway. The filter clip is just insurance against a dislodged filter. Not too necessary on a 2wd unit but you 4wd guys should really have one. That filter will never come out until you take it out.
As far as torque converters go. I would get a heavy duty unit matched to your engine and usage. The diesels and the 300 use the low stall converter stock, while the v8's use the higher stall converters stock. I'm not too sure what you would use for a modified 300 as you'd be pushing the power band up, it may need a higher stall converter. The billet cover units are nice but I really don't see the need in a gas powered or more or less stock diesel. If you were drag racing or four wheel racing I think you would get your money out of it but they are pretty costly. The diesel guys would have more to say about that. But as far as the transmission goes they would be built the same.
As far as tools go, you'll need few. A transmission jack is always great to have. This thing is pretty heavy. A parts washer, a set of seal drivers, the reverse piston tool, shell tool and a drum spring compressor. Many of these can be made or adapted from other tools. It seems like a lot but this list is pretty detailed. Most of all by prudent shopping on-line you can assemble all the parts except the master kit, and torque converter,for about $1200. I prefer to pick steels and clutches separately as I can get whats needed for each as opposed to a kit. if you have any questions let me know. I should be pulling mine next month and plan on doing a complete workup and putting it either on my site (not built yet) or here if allowed. Of course a good cooler needs to be added to keep the heat down.
Definitely a good product but its not cheap. The controller is $450 plus a wiring harness at $150. If you need it I guess its the way to go.
Oh yeah, I hear ya there - which is why I'm hell bent on devising a way to bypass the factory PCM entirely, and shift the thing manually Actually, you seem knowledgeable in E4ODs - what blows up if full line pressure all the time, and is there an aftermarket part that can handle said pressure?
Originally Posted by PDR60
Sorry I don't see a way to upload the pdf of the Sonnax instructions.
I think you have to be a paying member (supporter) of the site before you can attach documents to threads...