Batteries Draining/Won't start
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Freshman User
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Batteries Draining/Won't start
I have a 7.3 2000 250. Have had several events over last two weeks with not starting. Over the past two weeks, have replaced alternator, starter, and starter solenoid as well as both batteries. Each time I have replaced something trucks starts fine for a few days and then.....when I attempt to start the truck acts as though batteries are nearly dead. Took to local Ford Dealer and they tested the new batteries both in the truck and out of the truck. Out of the truck, the batteries test good with full 850 cranking amps. Hooked up in the truck, the batteries show they are bad and only have about 400 cranking amps. Disconnect them from truck and they say they are fine. Something must be pulling all of the juice out of the electrical system and it must a big pull as the electrical system goes from behaving normally to acting almost completely dead in a flash. Please help! Where do I start here???
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2003
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the alternator was the first thing replaced two weeks ago. no issues starting for about a week after that, then had issues and replaced starter; again no issues starting for about a week, then replaced battery and solenoid. No issues starting for one day, and here I find myself. If it is the alternator, it is an intermittent issue? Thanks for your input. Any other ideas?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
I'd start with checking voltage. Both key on and key off. Either use a multi meter or grab one of those volt meters that plugs into the cigarette lighter and displays battery voltage. I got mine from Walmart for pretty cheap.
If you can find a low voltage situation, start pulling one relay, then fuse at a tim. Replace it if there's no affect on voltage, but continue the test looking for a current draw. A better test would be to use a mulit-meter than can read current in milliamps to locate a minor draw.
You should also check your battery cables with a meter while cranking to make sure they are not corroded and causing the current drop. If you don't have a meter, jumper cables from a battery to an engine ground and to the starter relay should work for a test.
If you can find a low voltage situation, start pulling one relay, then fuse at a tim. Replace it if there's no affect on voltage, but continue the test looking for a current draw. A better test would be to use a mulit-meter than can read current in milliamps to locate a minor draw.
You should also check your battery cables with a meter while cranking to make sure they are not corroded and causing the current drop. If you don't have a meter, jumper cables from a battery to an engine ground and to the starter relay should work for a test.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,089
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Check your glow plug and air intake heater relays to see if there is power on both big terminals with the key off. If either were melt internally and complete the circuit all the time, the batteries would not last at all.
On each relay, one big terminal should have power all the time. The other should not.
On each relay, one big terminal should have power all the time. The other should not.
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