Adding to my suspension, what do I need?
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From: Charles Town, WV
Adding to my suspension, what do I need?
I have a 4" hanger kit, rear AAL, and airbags with 35's. My front springs are shot and I have a new pair of V codes in the garage. They should give me around 1 1/2" of front lift. I plan on swapping out the F250 blocks for F350 blocks, this should keep the truck level.
Now, should I get an adjustable track bar OR a dropped track bar bracket? I know I need one or the other as my front axle is already further to the passenger side.
Should I also get a drop pitman arm? I've seen posts where the sector shaft on these PS boxes have sheered. I don't want to put any additional stress on my PS box. Thanks
Now, should I get an adjustable track bar OR a dropped track bar bracket? I know I need one or the other as my front axle is already further to the passenger side.
Should I also get a drop pitman arm? I've seen posts where the sector shaft on these PS boxes have sheered. I don't want to put any additional stress on my PS box. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
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I have a Donahoe 4.5" all spring kit on my 250, and their drop bracket is amazing, as well as the pitman arm, it is huge! You can buy their 'box kit' from Icon, and all of the parts are there including bolts and instructions. They build off road race vehicles, and the fabrication looks like it. Their replacement parts are 10x beefier than the factory cast parts. Look into them, you won't be dissapointed.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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Hi all,
Lifting a vehicle without altering the track bar will pull the axle to the driver's side. If your axle is currently offset to the passenger's side, it is likely due to "sag" in the stock springs.
A drop pitman arm will compound any stresses on your steering, not reduce them. Think of it in terms of a breaker bar. The longer the bar, the more torque you can apply with the same force. This is somewhat over simplifying the physics of it, but you get the idea.
Finally, you want the track bar and drag link cycling in the same plane. Put more simply, you want them essentially parallel. Therefore, you would not want to use an adjustable track bar with a drop pitman arm. A drop pitman arm lowers the upper pivot point of the drag link. This should be accompanied by a drop track bar bracket to keep them approximately parallel. If you use an adjustable track bar, maintaining the stock upper pivot, you should stick with a stock pitman arm, again to keep the approximately parallel.
All of this being said, for mild lifts an adjustable track bar is usually the preferable choice.
Thanks,
Acer Engineering
Lifting a vehicle without altering the track bar will pull the axle to the driver's side. If your axle is currently offset to the passenger's side, it is likely due to "sag" in the stock springs.
A drop pitman arm will compound any stresses on your steering, not reduce them. Think of it in terms of a breaker bar. The longer the bar, the more torque you can apply with the same force. This is somewhat over simplifying the physics of it, but you get the idea.
Finally, you want the track bar and drag link cycling in the same plane. Put more simply, you want them essentially parallel. Therefore, you would not want to use an adjustable track bar with a drop pitman arm. A drop pitman arm lowers the upper pivot point of the drag link. This should be accompanied by a drop track bar bracket to keep them approximately parallel. If you use an adjustable track bar, maintaining the stock upper pivot, you should stick with a stock pitman arm, again to keep the approximately parallel.
All of this being said, for mild lifts an adjustable track bar is usually the preferable choice.
Thanks,
Acer Engineering
