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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Cab wind noise

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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 07:26 PM
  #16  
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What I did on a 64 I had back in the late 80's is what a lot of guys here have suggested with one addition. I drove around and had a buddy light a lighter, and hold it in different places. It helped find the hard to locate air leaks. Ultimately, I insulated under the mats, and above the headliner, and that is what did it on that truck. I think a roll of tape and an afternoon driving with a friend will locate most of it. With my current truck I haven't gotten to this point yet, but I will remember what I read here in the spring.

Good Luck.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #17  
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Is the noise above the dash or below? If below, it could be a rust hole in the cowl letting air in. Let's hope not ... I just repaired mine and it was like major surgery.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 04:39 AM
  #18  
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Bum, Thanks, my in college son is home this weekend, I will see if I can get him out with me for a while tomorrow with the grill lighter.

jmf66, It's really hard to say, I can't seem to be able to pin point it. It's a Sunday truck for sure because it's holy.

The door rubber is bad, it has some holes, and I haven't attacked it yet.

Let me take the suggestions you guys have offered and try some things tomorrow. We will be gone most of the day today for a grandson's b-day.





John
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 07:43 AM
  #19  
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Hey John,
One more suggestion...Maybe get a stethascope from a car parts store to listen to noises here and there...they're cheap if you don't have one already...I use it to pinpoint noises in the engine...it would work fine for finding those pesky wind noises, probe around the windows and under the dash. Enjoy having your son home for the weekend.
Jason
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:08 PM
  #20  
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I often use a stethoscope to locate wind/air noise. It works much better if you remove the hard tip and magnifier thingy and just use the open ended hose. For some reason the wind noise won't conduct through the hard tip, but the open hose works well. I extended the hose so I have about a 5 foot reach.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 11:22 AM
  #21  
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Report

I just got back from a little testing using butane bbq ligter.

Flame got sucked into the space above door, not much happening down front of glass area.

At the end of the dash & key area, big flame blowing and blowout. I taped the outside of the door from bottom of the glass where the curving starts to 80% down the door. At 70mph not much change in noise and still blowing flame out at key area.

I taped the inspection cover above vent door (that was already taped closed) and got a 80-90% improvement in air movement at key area but not completely stopped.

Air noise seems reduced but still has a lot.

I'm sure there are more holes to cover on the firewall.


Response



John
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 11:55 AM
  #22  
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Fire wall can be the biggest culprit John. Sounds like you are on the right track. Is your fuel tank still behind the seat? Could be sucking air in around the fill neck seal.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #23  
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John



I think that lots of air is forced around door hinges , from the wheel opening , is you gaskets

that seal off the rear of fender in place ? I think they help slow down some of the air from coming

around the hinges ! You may want to make a ruber gasket that would cover the hinge pockets ?


Wally womack
 

Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Feb 6, 2011 at 12:48 PM. Reason: adding info
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #24  
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If you can put tape over the fender bolt access hole and it changes your wind noise, you got air coming in your door pillar from the air plenum behind your kick panel. There is a piece of foam stapled to a flat piece of metal at the top of the door pillar/cowl between them. It could be gone or you could have a hole rusted thru at the bottom of the air plenum in your kick panel through to the door pillar. This is looking through the hinge hole top left.The other is looking at the same thing from the other side
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 04:24 AM
  #25  
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I have always thought there was too much air coming in through there, and have tried to ignore for too long. I will do further investigating of the cowl area later. Thanks for places to look.

Talk about radio, it has to be incredibly loud just to compete, so at times it becomes annoying. Many times I just leave it off.

I rehab Weber Gas Grills as a side line, so I spent most of a sunny afternoon cleaning on a couple grills, may have to try to finish therm today.



John
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 65jim
If you can put tape over the fender bolt access hole and it changes your wind noise, you got air coming in your door pillar from the air plenum behind your kick panel. There is a piece of foam stapled to a flat piece of metal at the top of the door pillar/cowl between them. It could be gone or you could have a hole rusted thru at the bottom of the air plenum in your kick panel through to the door pillar. This is looking through the hinge hole top left.The other is looking at the same thing from the other side
I raised the hood today, there is a rubber boot near the hood hinge. I looked into the wheel well to see rubber pieces halfway in place near the firewall.

I did notice up on the cowl in the curve a section that was raised and not flat. I found that interesting.

Also down at the bottom of the door opening I noticed a rot hole. The is way down from the noise.


John
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 06:45 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by oldblu
I often use a stethoscope to locate wind/air noise. It works much better if you remove the hard tip and magnifier thingy and just use the open ended hose. For some reason the wind noise won't conduct through the hard tip, but the open hose works well. I extended the hose so I have about a 5 foot reach.
If I tried that on my truck I'd probably blow my ear drums out!! Mine sounds like the Lockheed windtunnel at times.
 
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