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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1986 460ci performance

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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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1986 460ci performance

Hi there. I have bought an 86 f250 a few weeks ago with the 460ci in it. It is carbed, just so yall know, and I am beginning to rebuild the engine and would like to swap out some stock parts for performance parts. So far I am thinking about doing the camshaft, and cylinder heads and getting a good air filter. If anyone wants to suggest anything else that may be worthwhile, or know a good source, let me know. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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Do some research on the timing chain and gears. Something about the earlier 429 setup gives more power because it's timed differently.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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From: Muskegon Mi
460ford.com has tons of info.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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Early timing set (pre 1972) puts the cam straight up. Sealed power PN for the set is KT-3491 SA. This makes a big difference even in the stock 86 460.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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Whatever you do, be honest and mindful of your application. I suspect you want this to be a tow rig, so you should be building your setup for low and mid-range torque.

A 600 hp build that makes power from 3500 rpm up will probably not be very fun in a truck.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:41 AM
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you can get a timing chain for way cheaper for summitracing.com 30 bucks + shipping that will get rid of the 4 degrees retard on the cam... one of the best things to do right there. the heads on there are good for up to 700hp and of course the simple stuff of better intake headers and 4bbl carb 750 or above will change it up alot.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
A 600 hp build that makes power from 3500 rpm up will probably not be very fun in a truck.
I had what I expected to be a mild cam in my 425 HP 460 but turned out to be an on/off switch at 3000 RPM despite mild duration and wide LSA. It was a blast to drive and would bark 35's when it hit 3000 RPM in 2nd gear, and chirp to 2-3 and 3-4 shifts. Fun as hell, but eventually changed the cam because it was less than idea for towing. lol

To the OP... What are your power goals and budget? If you got plenty of money to spend, get a pair of TFS Streets. Great fit for a mild street engine. Your D3/E6 smogger heads will support up to 700 HP when properly ported though and likely cost around $500 to freshen up vs. $2500+ for TFS streets and rockers+pushrods to make 'em work. Need to know budget and power goals to give a good suggestion.

You'll want to go with a flat top or shallow dish piston to up compression. How much depends on intended use and suitable cam. Any octane requirements? To increase power at the end of the day we're upping compression, increasing flow of the heads and using a suitable cam.

Do a straight up double roller chain. Intake and carb selection again will depend on intended use. Carb should be around 750 CFM for mild build. I prefer a DP but a VS will work fine.

So basically, give us some more info and we'll give you some better direction for this build.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Early timing set (pre 1972) puts the cam straight up. Sealed power PN for the set is KT-3491 SA. This makes a big difference even in the stock 86 460.
I'm a little confused, what you guys are saying is that the earlier 429 timing set (pre 72) fit my 86 460? My understanding is that it is the same block. Is this true?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 86pullerf350
I'm a little confused, what you guys are saying is that the earlier 429 timing set (pre 72) fit my 86 460? My understanding is that it is the same block. Is this true?
Yes it is the same block.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 04:35 PM
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I searched for 'timing' and can't find the howto on putting in an older model timing chain. The 86ish style just has the extra 4 degrees machined into the cm sprocket. I know how to change a chain, What I was trying to find is does that impact the amount of timing set in at the distributor? I'd assume you use the light and set it to the same timing as a 1968-1971?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Cam timing and intake timing are completely independant. Also it's prudent to degree the cam as some double roller timing sets are marked zero for the later retarded timing. Usually you can spot this as the true zero has a notch for the key directly in line with the tooth of the gear, not offset.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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If your building for towing I suggest what I did & buy a Cloyes True Roller chain kit. Set it up so you advance the cam 4 degrees past the TDC. By doing this you will add a bunch of low & mid range toque. Your manifold vacuum will increase to around 18" of vacuum. Really helping with the cruise control holding on pulls. I never have noticed any top end loss. My 86 F250 4x4 460/C-6 still will bury the speedo.

Craig
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 09:45 PM
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The cams I've put in always were direct bolt in. It sounds like that's the difference between the 1970 vs 1986 chain sets. Unless the timing set has adjustability, I thought you can just bolt in a 1970 stock replacement?

I've checked cams with degree wheel and bump stop ( heads off ) but that was a double check, not for adjustment. I'm running mine as a sometime hauler and off road toy.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by xirxious
I searched for 'timing' and can't find the howto on putting in an older model timing chain. The 86ish style just has the extra 4 degrees machined into the cm sprocket. I know how to change a chain, What I was trying to find is does that impact the amount of timing set in at the distributor? I'd assume you use the light and set it to the same timing as a 1968-1971?
Changing the timing on the cam changes when the intake/exhaust valve open and close, whereas changing the dizzy timing changes when the spark plugs go off. the newer engines are setup poorly for smog purposes. The older timing sets change when the valves open so that you get better vacuum, hence better low end torque. If you're going to have the engine apart that far, you may consider just putting in a new cam and lifters and doing a basic top end rebuild. cam kits are pretty cheap for the 460.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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Yeah, I was thinking on the total timing numbers we used on another race motor, its been awhile. We built one to run in the 5000 rpm range (small block) and the cam & spark timing were both changed, but I didn't do that part. I hadn't planned on tearing it all apart, but I do need to do alot of maintenance work and swapping a chain/gears isn't much effort. My plan is just to add an Edelbrock 750, a Weiand intake, change the timing chain then add headers in the fall.

Originally Posted by NavyMIDN08
Changing the timing on the cam changes when the intake/exhaust valve open and close, whereas changing the dizzy timing changes when the spark plugs go off. the newer engines are setup poorly for smog purposes. The older timing sets change when the valves open so that you get better vacuum, hence better low end torque. If you're going to have the engine apart that far, you may consider just putting in a new cam and lifters and doing a basic top end rebuild. cam kits are pretty cheap for the 460.
 
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