You can add a rear sway bar using junkyard components for under $100.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20811992

This may really help handling in crosswinds.

 

Glad you mentioned that. I bought my 1997 E-350 new . One of the first things I did was to buy 17x8" wheels with 255/60-17 tires. The stock 225/75-16 tires had so much sidewall flex that it was unnerving coming down a long steep freeway hill at speed. After that, the thing (with only a light load of windsurfing gear) would handle the twisties pretty well. The load capability just made for a stiffer suspension in roll even with the fairly thin OEM sway bar.

I should mention that it was surprising to me that around 70-80 K miles the front wheels started to develop this wobble as I approached about 60 mph, but would decrease as I went through that speed range. Eventually, I found out the ball joints were bad and I replaced them with front Belsteins. This improved the situation but never quite eliminated it. I did have the front end checked once but they said it did not need anything. I put up with it till about 110K miles when I put a steeing damper on it with Belsteins which minimized and of the wobble but you could still feel a slight presence although it was barely perceptible and never strengthed with speed as before. Despite these problems, I never had issues with getting blown around in the E-350. I never changed any bushing beyond the ball joints at 80K miles and it still had the stock rear shocks when it was totaled at 125K miles.

While this is a completely different animal, I did have a 1984 VW water boxer bus. When I got it it did not have the required reinforced sidewall tires. I remember coming through the Gaviaota CA tunnel one evening on the 101 and it was windy and I slowed down to 45 mph on the freeway. Definitely white knuckle experience. Subsequently, I found some Mercedes Benz wheels that would fit a 60 series tire and put on an Addco front sway bar. The van drove like a slot car in comparison. Night and Day. Later I put on the rear sway bar with not nearly as much impact ad the first two mods.

That said, since the 1997 E-350 was totaled, I bought both a 2000 E-350 (raised top) with 300K miles (245/75-16) and a 2002 E-250 with 215K miles (225/75-16) both in similar but unknown maintenance history) which both drive straight with no hint of wobble or no sign of a pronounced cross-wind sensitivity. Neither has any hint of wobble. Both will track very straight and comfortably down the freeway at 75 mph without a hitch. So I would say that a 75 series tire that is on these E-250/E350 vans is OK for moderate-speed straight freeway driving, but if you are pushing it down a steep hill the sidewall needs a lot of flex to turn the vehicle (much less with a short sidewall tire) and that makes the driving semi uncomfortable. On the other hand, I do attribute some of my wobble problems to the oversized tires and the associated accelerated wear on the front end.

 

I appreciate the input about the wheel size and tires. This van has measly 15 inch alloy wheels (it's an '03 conversion van) but nearly new Michelin tires which I hoped would have a stiffer sidewall than cheaper tires. Larger wheel size would probably help a lot with stability as you said. Something I should have considered before buying those new tires!

 

Wow, thanks for the link, I'll check it out!

 

I did not mention that I also have a 1997 E-150 Mark III conversion van that I picked up cheaply. It is in very good condition for its age but needs a spark plug thread insert. It is similar to yours in that it has the OEM 15" alloy wheels and new (500 miles) 225/75-15 tires. It sits pretty low compared to my E-350 and I suspect it will need a sway bar upgrade at least because I don't want to go to the expense of changing perfectly good wheels and tires. While it runs (albeit with one plug missing), I have not been able to drive it yet. I will have an extra set of HD shock to put on it or possibly some of the Monroe coil overs to stiffen the ride on the cheap side. It will be a few months before i get back to it.

 

Now that really buffed out nicely.

 

Found one , never give up. Seller said it was the last Genuine Ford Damper Bracket HC3Z3E652a

 

Here is where I got one: https://www.vantageoptics.com/shop/V...are-p367540223

Expensive for what it is but the steel is much thicker and stronger than the Ford tie rod bracket. It includes the U-bolts and nuts.

 

The bend is critical for straightforward attachment of an OE style damper. I tried a flat bracket then gave up and got one with the factory style bend.

Don’t forget tapping screws for the fixed end bracket.

Sixto
07 E350 5.4 197K miles

 

While searching I found an alternative mounting system Safe-T-Plus E-353K14 Steering Stabilizer Bracket K14 for 2010 and newer and E-353K13 for older

 

Just to check the bracket for the toyota would fit the E150? With a little bending? I have a 1998 hi top camper E150 and the front wanders something fierce..all new ball joints, tie rods and bearings found andrews great write up but like you say the U Bolt clamp is discontinued I would love to get it installed if it actually fits..Let me know THANKS!!

The U bolt clamp brack is discontinued: Ford F2UZ-3E652-B

Bracket-Steering Shock Absorber L.1992-2019 Ford F2UZ3E652B

However, this bracket is supposed to be 1 1/4" which is the same as the OE part F2UZ3E652B . I will have to probably reshape the angle of the plate a little (from 90 deg to under 45 deg)
Pro Comp Suspension 2525 Single Steering Stabilizer Bracket Fits 4Runner Pickup
https://www.procompusa.com/product-s...-bracket-2525/