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Diesel Break-In Routine

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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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Diesel Break-In Routine

I read the entire article on breaking in the 2011 diesel. The procedure sounded very logical and well thought out. I would like to follow the procedures, but ran up against a real problem when it said to hook on to a load and tow up a grade and warm the engine up. I can tell you here in South Central Kansas you will go hundreds of miles in any direction before you find anything that looks like a GRADE. Guess I'll have to wait for trip out West!!!!!!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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You can at least find a heavy trailer and do some good acceleration and deceleration runs. That would be better than nothing.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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I was 800 miles from home working in Nebraska when I had to buy a new truck. I was a week from heading home. I drove the truck around Omaha and Lincoln for work and put 1000 miles on it. I drove it like a daily driver. Freeway, city and highway driving as needed. No drag racing though... I hooked up the 13000 pound fiver and headed for home. Truck runs great. I say just drive it, do not hurt yourself with the never ending smile, and hook up that trailer when you are ready to go...

Regards
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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Yeah, I could hook up someone's heavy trailer and do some pulling. Right now, my 5er is blocked in it's shed with 45 mph snow drifts piling up snow against the overhead door. Boy we are getting hammered here!! May have to wait for spring... I'm just anxious to get going on outfitting the truck. I sure have learned a lot reading this forum. Unfortunately I can't find specific info about my chassis cab. However I have found out what most of the differences are. I try not to worry that it will have 100 hp less than the pickups. My Alumascape handled real well behind my 04 F250 Lariat SRW diesel, so hope the F350 dually diesel will be OK. I so wanted to get rid of trying to get things out of the bed of my 04. I don't pull over 65 mph, and like I said the 04 did great, just wanted more stability in the winds we always have here in the midwest. Boy I sure hope I like this thing, it cost a lot and it's a big decision. My wife tells me to quit worrying, maybe she's right.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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as much as we husbands sometimes hate to admit it, our wives can have their moments of wisdom
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jim48
I read the entire article on breaking in the 2011 diesel. The procedure sounded very logical and well thought out. I would like to follow the procedures, but ran up against a real problem when it said to hook on to a load and tow up a grade and warm the engine up. I can tell you here in South Central Kansas you will go hundreds of miles in any direction before you find anything that looks like a GRADE. Guess I'll have to wait for trip out West!!!!!!
You could always take the wheels off the trailer and drag it across the flatlands!!!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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Brian, that's an idea, but the wife would have me committed for sure!! I guess it's a moot point right now, even if I had it I probably couldn't move it in this blizzard. But, I dread the 110 degree heat of summer too. One thing you can count on in Kansas is the wind, cold windy winter and hot windy summer. Guess that's why we have the 5th wheel, at least we can escape for part of the year!!!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jim48
I try not to worry that it will have 100 hp less than the pickups.
I never heard why these chasis cabs are derated 100hp. Why is it done?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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The duty cycle for a chassis cab is presumed to be much different than a standard pick up. Use for power line buckets, delivery trucks, rescue/emergency vehicles, etc...

They have a different turbo and I believe an option in the PCM/on screen menu to do a manual regen/Dpf cleanout at idle.

Unfortunately, Ford has catered to the masses on this and a few folks who use them for private/personal use have to endure.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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I think the certification of horsepower is also different. One is done under guidlines of chassis dyno and one engine dyno, or at least I was told that. I don't know what that means however. Also different exhaust, fuel tank, def tank, emissions setup, engine program, turbo, rear end availability and maybe other items I've yet to discover. This all adds up to my truck being rated at 300hp and 660 torque. Like I said sure hope this all works out, I'll soon find out.
 
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