90 F150 no start
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 286
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From: CENTRAL PA
90 F150 no start
I am working on a 90 F150 4.9 manual 4x4 for a friend. He was driving it when it just shut off. Cranked the battery dead. I towed it to my place and between snowstorms I got to dig into it, 1st thing I found was a starter button under the dash. I tore the column apart and replaced the ign switch actuator that was broken and adjusted the ign switch. Now it cranks but still wont fire. Lots of fresh gas in the rear tank. The front leaks so he doesnt use it. When I turn the key I hear no fuel pump whine from either tank. All my personal trucks are newer and there is a whine on all of them when the pump runs. It got too dark on me tonight and there is yet another storm coming to PA. I am going to look for fuses and relays as soon as I can. Does the selector switch have anything to do with the pumps? Any other suggestions?
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Portage Twp, PA
Hey Pat...how goes? Power flows from the "cold" side of the starter relay on the fender through a fusible link, then to the fuel pump relay on the LH inner fender, then through the inertia switch under the dash, then to the fuel pumps (remember that pre-'91 had a low-pressure pump in the tank and a high-pressure pump on the frame rail). Fuse #15 is for the fuel tank selector switch, but it doesn't look like this should affect the operation of the high-pressure pump.
I think I'd start by checking the inertia switch first, since it's the easiest. If the button isn't already pushed down, then do that!
Then I'd check for power at the relay (should be the solid yellow wire)...remember that the EEC turns off the power at the relay after a second or two. Then, if no power at the relay, I'd check the fusible link.
I have the EVTM for my '89, so if you're still stumped by the weekend, I might be able to give a hand...and I just remembered one last thing to check: look at the terminals on the relay. I had to replace the relay on mine a couple years ago, as the terminals had corroded apart!
Later,
Pat
I think I'd start by checking the inertia switch first, since it's the easiest. If the button isn't already pushed down, then do that!
Then I'd check for power at the relay (should be the solid yellow wire)...remember that the EEC turns off the power at the relay after a second or two. Then, if no power at the relay, I'd check the fusible link.I have the EVTM for my '89, so if you're still stumped by the weekend, I might be able to give a hand...and I just remembered one last thing to check: look at the terminals on the relay. I had to replace the relay on mine a couple years ago, as the terminals had corroded apart!
Later,
Pat
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 286
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From: CENTRAL PA
Pat, You just confused the "bleep" out of me. Maybe some help may be the way to go. I will be in garage saturday from noon on. I may even drag this thing inside. Do you have my cell#? Pat
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 797
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From: ohio
Do you have a check engine light with the key in run? If you do not check the wiring where both the eec and fuel pump relay connect. If you have a very dim check engine light check the two ground wires at the neg terminal.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 797
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From: ohio
Hey Pat...how goes? Power flows from the "cold" side of the starter relay on the fender through a fusible link, then to the fuel pump relay on the LH inner fender, then through the inertia switch under the dash, then to the fuel pumps (remember that pre-'91 had a low-pressure pump in the tank and a high-pressure pump on the frame rail). Fuse #15 is for the fuel tank selector switch, but it doesn't look like this should affect the operation of the high-pressure pump.
I think I'd start by checking the inertia switch first, since it's the easiest. If the button isn't already pushed down, then do that! Then I'd check for power at the relay (should be the solid yellow wire)...remember that the EEC turns off the power at the relay after a second or two. Then, if no power at the relay, I'd check the fusible link.
I have the EVTM for my '89, so if you're still stumped by the weekend, I might be able to give a hand...and I just remembered one last thing to check: look at the terminals on the relay. I had to replace the relay on mine a couple years ago, as the terminals had corroded apart!
Later,
Pat
I think I'd start by checking the inertia switch first, since it's the easiest. If the button isn't already pushed down, then do that!
Then I'd check for power at the relay (should be the solid yellow wire)...remember that the EEC turns off the power at the relay after a second or two. Then, if no power at the relay, I'd check the fusible link.I have the EVTM for my '89, so if you're still stumped by the weekend, I might be able to give a hand...and I just remembered one last thing to check: look at the terminals on the relay. I had to replace the relay on mine a couple years ago, as the terminals had corroded apart!
Later,
Pat
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 636
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From: Portage Twp, PA
OTOH, if the yellow wire was to be on the cold side of the relay, it certainly wouldn't run!
Pat
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From: Formerly Nawlins
Pat .... it is pre 1990 that has the low pressure pumps in the tank and the high pressure on the frame rail .... 1990 til I don't know when used a pump in each tank that will eventually have check valve problems.
Look for the proceedure used to get the pumps running to test the fuel pressure at the rail .... if I recall correctly (4 or 5 years ago) I did not have the engine running for that. You may hear it then ... they don't run long before starting to hear unless you are in a quite garage. I have the 1990 service manual, will look it up and post if nobody else has when I get home.
Look for the proceedure used to get the pumps running to test the fuel pressure at the rail .... if I recall correctly (4 or 5 years ago) I did not have the engine running for that. You may hear it then ... they don't run long before starting to hear unless you are in a quite garage. I have the 1990 service manual, will look it up and post if nobody else has when I get home.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 537
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From: Formerly Nawlins
Okay ... did not find in service manual ... but in the usually only good as a wheel chock Haynes 1980 - 1996 F150 manual which covers the 4 or 5 different fuel systems for that Decade and a Half of fairly similar bodied trucks.
It involves grounding the fuel pump test terminal which will allow the pump to run after you don't start the vehicle. There are a few pictures and I don't have my scanner handy ... see if you can look at it at the auto parts store, or maybe somebody here can give better directions.
It involves grounding the fuel pump test terminal which will allow the pump to run after you don't start the vehicle. There are a few pictures and I don't have my scanner handy ... see if you can look at it at the auto parts store, or maybe somebody here can give better directions.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 286
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From: CENTRAL PA
Don't rip the kick panels out, like I did. The inertia switch on a 90 is just above and to the left of the steering column. Jumped it, ckd fuse links, next is replace EEC and fuel pump relays. Then whether it runs or not I am giving it back to the owner.
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: CENTRAL PA
"Do you have a check engine light with the key in run? "
Yes, bright light.
"Ground Pin 6 on the Self Test connector. Here is a photo from Bill (subford):"
Did it. Still nothing. Either tank. Next step is to push it inside and ck power to pump(s)
Yes, bright light.
"Ground Pin 6 on the Self Test connector. Here is a photo from Bill (subford):"
Did it. Still nothing. Either tank. Next step is to push it inside and ck power to pump(s)
Last edited by BEAST428; Feb 7, 2011 at 04:35 PM. Reason: double post.