6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Planning on doing my head gaskets myself

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  #16  
Old 01-30-2011, 10:52 AM
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I've seen no advantage going with the Black Onyx (aka Victor Reinz) headgaskets. There are some very high HP trucks running stock headgaskets with no problems.
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:26 AM
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Then I will go with stock gaskets as long as when I go to tune the truck its not going to cause them to fail.

where can I find stock gaskets at a good price?

The dowel pin size doesnt matter for the studs just the gaskets?

Im getting anxious to get this project started.
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:35 AM
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you have to have the correct gaskets either 18mm or 20mm and yes its about the dowl alingment.

so far as were to find them I dont know check ebay. they show up there from time to time.
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:52 AM
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Correct the dowel pin size is for the gasket. Check with Ed on the gaskets. I beleave he can get them individualy without the stock TTY bolts.

As far as the long shank goes. Yes it's longer (somewhere around 3-4 inches) before it goes into the socket adapter. They will look something like this. STANLEY Extra Long Torx Bit Socket 1/2" DR. x T40
Mine are 3/8 drive, and I wouldn't really recomend buying off the internet. Just run down to your local auto parts store. I know autozone carries them. If you really want to get a good set get them from snap-on or the likes.
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:32 PM
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I believe I need 20mm....

Quick question.... When I go to put the studs in do I put the studs in then put the heads on? OR put the heads on then stud it?

YouTube - FORD 6.0L HEAD GASKETS REPAIR

In this video they put the studs on the put the heads on, but I dont know if theres enough room to do it like that since they have the cab off...

Also when I put the studs in how do I torque the head bolts in...It looks likes its a allen type?
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:29 PM
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ok depending on how you opt to do the job really awnsers the question.
you need to set the heads on then install the studs.
the exception to this is the drivers lower rear bolt, that stud has to go in with the head at the same time.
also you dont say if you are pulling the evap case. with the case on you will need to install most of the studs while putting the head on.

the studs themselfs are not torqued down. they get put in make sure they are in all the way with the allan wrench. the nuts that go on the studs are what proivides clamping force.
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:50 PM
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I think ARP says to just put the studs in by hand, but I put an allan wrench on them and just snuged them a little to make sure they were seated all the way down.
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:19 PM
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This is going to sound strange but has anyone ever just replaced the head bolts with studs without removing the heads? I just recently had $5K worth of warranty work done and couldn't get the warranty guys to let me put in the ARP studs instead of oem bolts or they wouldn't cover it. I plan on one day putting in the studs but was wondering if it could be done one at a time maybe? I may be dreaming but I am hoping someone has done this already with maybe pictures to back it up?
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:21 PM
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its been done. I would not do it to my truck. but thats a differnt story.
use the search function you find it asked, awnsered to ....
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:30 PM
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Do a search for studs installed without removing heads. It has been done. As cheezit said I wouldn't do it on my truck.
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cheezit
ok depending on how you opt to do the job really awnsers the question.
you need to set the heads on then install the studs.
the exception to this is the drivers lower rear bolt, that stud has to go in with the head at the same time.
also you dont say if you are pulling the evap case. with the case on you will need to install most of the studs while putting the head on.

the studs themselfs are not torqued down. they get put in make sure they are in all the way with the allan wrench. the nuts that go on the studs are what proivides clamping force.

I was not planning on pulling the EVAP case...Is it a pain to do or fairly simple?

How much does a head usually weigh?

And when I go to torque them down I just use a 12 point socket?
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:13 PM
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the evap case come out in 15 min. I tried to do a head with the evap case on still just to see if it was worth it. IM not tring that again.
the down side is that you have to drain and fill the a/c

I never put one on a scale but I would say 80lbs dressed give ot take a little

yes a 12pt
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:33 PM
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Is there any kind of write-up for doing HG's. Would be good to know I may also atempt this myself. But I would love to see a write-up before I tried.
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:08 AM
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I will pull the EVAP case then, can you tell me where it is or show me a picture of it?



I can try my best to do a write up with pictures if it all turns out successfully.
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 2006powerstroke90
I will pull the EVAP case then, can you tell me where it is or show me a picture of it?
It's in the passenger side corner of the engine compartment next to the fire wall---the box that all the AC lines run into that makes it very hard to get the passenger side valve cover off.
 


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