Planning on doing my head gaskets myself
#16
#17
#19
Correct the dowel pin size is for the gasket. Check with Ed on the gaskets. I beleave he can get them individualy without the stock TTY bolts.
As far as the long shank goes. Yes it's longer (somewhere around 3-4 inches) before it goes into the socket adapter. They will look something like this. STANLEY Extra Long Torx Bit Socket 1/2" DR. x T40
Mine are 3/8 drive, and I wouldn't really recomend buying off the internet. Just run down to your local auto parts store. I know autozone carries them. If you really want to get a good set get them from snap-on or the likes.
As far as the long shank goes. Yes it's longer (somewhere around 3-4 inches) before it goes into the socket adapter. They will look something like this. STANLEY Extra Long Torx Bit Socket 1/2" DR. x T40
Mine are 3/8 drive, and I wouldn't really recomend buying off the internet. Just run down to your local auto parts store. I know autozone carries them. If you really want to get a good set get them from snap-on or the likes.
#20
I believe I need 20mm....
Quick question.... When I go to put the studs in do I put the studs in then put the heads on? OR put the heads on then stud it?
YouTube - FORD 6.0L HEAD GASKETS REPAIR
In this video they put the studs on the put the heads on, but I dont know if theres enough room to do it like that since they have the cab off...
Also when I put the studs in how do I torque the head bolts in...It looks likes its a allen type?
Quick question.... When I go to put the studs in do I put the studs in then put the heads on? OR put the heads on then stud it?
YouTube - FORD 6.0L HEAD GASKETS REPAIR
In this video they put the studs on the put the heads on, but I dont know if theres enough room to do it like that since they have the cab off...
Also when I put the studs in how do I torque the head bolts in...It looks likes its a allen type?
#21
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: N. Fort Worth, tx
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ok depending on how you opt to do the job really awnsers the question.
you need to set the heads on then install the studs.
the exception to this is the drivers lower rear bolt, that stud has to go in with the head at the same time.
also you dont say if you are pulling the evap case. with the case on you will need to install most of the studs while putting the head on.
the studs themselfs are not torqued down. they get put in make sure they are in all the way with the allan wrench. the nuts that go on the studs are what proivides clamping force.
you need to set the heads on then install the studs.
the exception to this is the drivers lower rear bolt, that stud has to go in with the head at the same time.
also you dont say if you are pulling the evap case. with the case on you will need to install most of the studs while putting the head on.
the studs themselfs are not torqued down. they get put in make sure they are in all the way with the allan wrench. the nuts that go on the studs are what proivides clamping force.
#22
#23
This is going to sound strange but has anyone ever just replaced the head bolts with studs without removing the heads? I just recently had $5K worth of warranty work done and couldn't get the warranty guys to let me put in the ARP studs instead of oem bolts or they wouldn't cover it. I plan on one day putting in the studs but was wondering if it could be done one at a time maybe? I may be dreaming but I am hoping someone has done this already with maybe pictures to back it up?
#26
ok depending on how you opt to do the job really awnsers the question.
you need to set the heads on then install the studs.
the exception to this is the drivers lower rear bolt, that stud has to go in with the head at the same time.
also you dont say if you are pulling the evap case. with the case on you will need to install most of the studs while putting the head on.
the studs themselfs are not torqued down. they get put in make sure they are in all the way with the allan wrench. the nuts that go on the studs are what proivides clamping force.
you need to set the heads on then install the studs.
the exception to this is the drivers lower rear bolt, that stud has to go in with the head at the same time.
also you dont say if you are pulling the evap case. with the case on you will need to install most of the studs while putting the head on.
the studs themselfs are not torqued down. they get put in make sure they are in all the way with the allan wrench. the nuts that go on the studs are what proivides clamping force.
I was not planning on pulling the EVAP case...Is it a pain to do or fairly simple?
How much does a head usually weigh?
And when I go to torque them down I just use a 12 point socket?
#29
#30
It's in the passenger side corner of the engine compartment next to the fire wall---the box that all the AC lines run into that makes it very hard to get the passenger side valve cover off.