Got that part lol, but I'm still confused regarding 6x8 or 5x7? are they the same holes or... what came in it?

Also, if I get a speaker that fits that criteria will I blow it to pieces when I get the head unit I want? Would I need to put an amp in for these new speakers? All the new vehicles we build at my plant have an amp for the 6x9's they have in them, and a separate amp for the subwoofer.

Then some crossover voodoo? And really, in terms of speakers... they seem to range a HUGE price range, what differentiates this cost. I already looked at speakers at the store and couldn't tell the difference between the $200 pair and the $25 pair... how much do you really get what you pay for? Does the cone material really matter? Am I going to have to get creative with the soldering iron to hook them up like i did in my 86 ford? Keep in mind the newest car I've ever messed with the audio in was my old 86 Ford p/u that never had a radio to begin with (so i got doors from an 89 with speakers in them and got creative with some monster cable and the soldering iron)

 

Another vote for Pioneers. I have them in most of my Mustangs and plan on installing a set of Pioneer four ways in my truck. you can often find them for around $100 for four ($50 a pair) at many retailers and Ebay. They are more than capable of producing great sound and power.

 

I'm really liking the idea of this. How did you wire it in (power and to the back of the factory head unit)? I've been looking at replacing the speakers and I might do this at the same time. Trying to hold off buying a new head unit for now (can't afford it, and I like the stock look).

 

So I bought some pioneer speakers as outlined in this article, however the harness doesnt line up (pioneers use a fat post and skinny post vs. the factory 2 pin clip. None of the wires in my truck match the colors shown in any of the wiring diagrams i could find... which wire is hot and which one is negative? striped or solid? Dont have a test light before i get soldering

 

For the Kenwood 6x8's ... they just bolted right in. I got 2 set "new" off eBay for what Crutchfield wanted for one set. I used METRA #72-5600 adapters (also off eBay) to connect the speakers to the factory harness (no cutting or splicing). The speakers sound absolutely great ... 'bout all I can say!

Now for the sub in the console, it takes a little effort. You'll have to take the console out and disassemble it to mount the sub inside ... it's not very hard to do. You'll have to make a 3/4" hole in the bottom of the console for the wiring to pass .. a grommet makes this hole look professional, but you really wont be able to see it after the sub's in there anyway. I used the flat length-wise brackets that came with the sub and bolted it to the inner colsole box with 4 #10 screws and speed nuts ... I used 4 rubber "faucet repair" washer (13/32" thick) between the bracket and the console box to reduce any vibrations. For the wiring, all you need to is some wire taps to tap into the speakers wires that are under the left & right front door thresholds. you can run the wires under the carpet ... having some "fish tape" will help do this. For power, I routed the main power wire & the accessory power wire under the carpet and down the drivers side threshold to the fuse box. Using two "Buss HHH Accessory Mini Add-A-Line" fuse taps (Advance Auto), I tapped into the #21 fuse for the power (#21 is for heated seats which I dont have) and the #42 fuse for the "delayed" accessory. The sub only pulls 8 amps, so it's within the 10 amp rating for the fuse tap.

I don't have many pics of this when I did it, and once it's done you cant see much but the top of the sub. There still plenty of room in the console after the install too ... just wouldn't put anyhing small in there as it might roll under the sub. It sounds just fine for what it is and the space it takes up!

I haven't forgot about the pics ... will try to post them up this weekend.

 

I'm digging this! Something to put on the wish list for summertime. I may hit you up via PM once I really get the ball rolling.

Thanks again for the explanation.

- Steve

 

Here are some crappy pics I found on my HDD of when I was prepping the inner console for the Kenwood Sub ...



Here's a pic of the hole for the wires (w/o the grommet) ... this hole faces the drivers seat. You can also see the two small mounting holes for this half.




Here's the two halves of the inner console; showing the four mounting holes and the larger wire hole.




Here are the bracket, screws, rubber bumpers, and speed nuts. The plastic of the console would be between the bottom of the ruber bumper and the speed nut.






The sub with the brackets installed.




The sub mocked-up inside the inner console.

 

I have kicker all the way around, if your looking for really really really awesome doorspeakers for a great price, go on ebay and look for Kicker KS680, these are 6x8 door speakers that directly replace the stock ones, they sound awesome, i have them in my truck and bought all four for 127 bucks shipped. 6x8 pioneers where 60 bucks at wally world by me. Kickers IMO are way better

 

Thanks for the sub info! Now that I have Pioneer speakers in the truck I definitely think I need one... the new speakers are much clearer but lost a lot of bass compared to the stockers with the factory head unit.

I may have to pick one of them subs up here around my birthday... the valentines day fund went into the truck (my true love) instead of to a chick, and lord knows i cannot sacrifice st patty's day fund

 

I put in a new unit but still used the stock radio too.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...o-install.html

 

I have a 4-door as well and I will be making an enclosure that will go under the rear seat for either 8 or 10 inch woofers that will be down-firing.

If you look under your rear seat there is a large void that extends up into the rear seat. That space will be used for the enclosure.

I know I can fit either four 8s or two 10s in there. I haven't decided which way to go.

 

12's or 13's will fit behind the seat just fine.

Photo from BoxWorx website...

 

Horrible design, though.

The last time I used an enclosure like that was '91.

 

You might want to do a little research before blasting the designer. You won't find a box better tuned for the F Series.

 

Don't need to do research to know that any speaker that plays directly into a flat wall (the back of the seat) is being hampered in performance. It doesn't matter who builds the box. There are several companies that sell prefab boxes like that. That design, in general, is a poor design - regardless of who makes it.

There are other options for a crew cab that will yield better output from the woofers (and be safer for the woofers) than sandwiching them between the rear wall of the cab the the seat.