I'm new to the site but I think it's great already. I recently pulled a 65' F-100 out of a hay field, and it's not ran for 7 or 8 yrs. Can anyone give me some advice on what to do initially before I try to get it started? I don't want to do anymore damage than whats already been done.

 

First, I would drain the oil pan, replace oil filter. Before adding fresh oil, pour a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to help rinse any sediment through the block and down into the oil pan drain.

Next pull the plugs and replace.

Next I would not try to pump gas through that old fuel line. Set up a container of fuel with a fuel line going to the carb. BE CAREFUL doing this. Use common sense.

Pull coil wire off an crank the motor a few times before trying to start it.

 

I would also wd-40 or equivalent the cylinders and rotate it a couple of times so its not that dry of a start

 

I got my 66 about 19 months ago, and it had plates from 1997. That is all I know. When I got started I changed the oil to Pennzoil 10W30, and I pulled the plugs and put some Marvels Mystery Oil in the Cylinders, with a little ATF. I let it sit for a day like that. I replaced anything to do with the electric side of the engine running. As far as fuel goes, I replaced all of the rubber lines, and blew out the steel ones. I ended up getting a gas tank because the old one was so rusted. I had to get the Carb rebuilt and now it runs like a dream. I still need a little adjustment but the compression is good, and I drive it every week.

 

It may be worth it to just give it a quick shot of carb cleaner. As other have said, don't try and run it using the old gas, replace the lines/filter and use new gas.

 

When I pulled my 400 it sat for about the same amount of time. I put a good battery in and ran a 2.5 gallon gas can to the fuel pump. It cranked but was a no go, replaced the fuel pump and it started right up. A few days later I added some seafoam to the carb changed the oil with Motocraft 10-30 syn blend and motorcraft filter. Its been 5 years and she runs smooth.

 

I have a little different approach, with a socket on the crank bolt try rotating the engine by hand to see if it will rotate, then change the oil & filter, remove all spark plugs, pour about 3 spoons of Marvels Mystery oil and motor oil into each plug hole.

With the gas line removed, all plugs out, good battery,turn the engine over until the oil pressure comes up to normal pressure.

Fill a antifreeze jug with gas (your new gas tank), wedge it in where it'll stay put, use a new hose to the fuel pump from the jug.

Have some gas in a pop/soda/water bottle to pour in the carb. You want a small neck in case it back fires, you don't want to be startled & sling gas everywhere and start a fire.

If all is good, rebuild the carb, add new plugs & wires. Then add a new 4 barrel intake, headers, Petronix, and on & on.




John

 

DONT be pouring gas in the carb when your cranking it! Por some in and set the bottle down away from you. No chance of being startled when and if it backfires an slinging gas all over the place. Ask my son how he knows about that and a 1950 desoto

 

Why not just use some Starting Fluid when attempting to start first time. Had to resort to that stuff when restarting the Dodge after sitting four months after repair work. The stuff catches quicker than gas and really helped me when cranking with gas didn't work.

 

wow, thanks for all the information, im gonna give it a try tomorrow after a talk with the almighty FORD GODS tonight ........

 

I can attest to that! I was pouring gas down the carb from a cup full of gas while my buddy was cranking and it backfired and I caught on fire and I ran and my buddy threw me down and rolled me out. Spent a few days in the burn unit at the hospital and a longer time recovering. I was lucky and only burned my arm and a couple of other spots.

If you do pour gas down the carb, crank it yourself. Do not crank while pouring. Install air cleaner w/element every time after pouring gas down carb so, if it does backfire, there is a shield.

BE SAFE!

 

If it has truly been 7-8 yrs. you had better check the brakes!?!

Also, if it is a standard, pull the clutch inspection cover off the bottom of the bell housing and remove the mouse motel that probably has been built in there.

 

Instead of pouring it in the carb throat, use a small squeeze bottle & fill the carb bowl(s) thru the vent tubes. Squirt a little in the carb throat for good measure.... some folks idea of "pouring a little" in the carb can end up causing hydro-lock, bent rods, etc....

 

Curious why people want to pour fuel directly in carb, rather than setting up a container with a line going to the fuel pump. Seems safer...

 

Since it's been sitting out in a field for that long - I'd be pulling off the rocker arm covers first to see just how rusty it may be inside. I've seen similar engines with serious rust under the covers that I wouldn't want running through the engine and getting jammed into bearings and plugging up oil passages - probably causing trouble down the line. If there isn't any rust under the covers, only then would I change the oil & filter. Next, drain the coolant, flush out with fresh water until it flows clear then re-fill with clear water for now (you can re-fill with anti-freeze mix later, once you know there aren't any radiator, heater or hose leaks). Next, pull the sparkplugs and spoon in a bit of MMO as previously mentioned. With the plus still out, turn the engine over by hand at the front balancer nut, ensuring it turns over smoothly. Next, I'd remove the fuel line at the fuel pump, draining any residual fuel from the tank. Flush a gallon or so of fresh gas through the tank and line. Now you can re-connect the fuel line to the pump and add two gallons of fresh fuel to the tank. Now that the MMO has sat in the cylinders a while, take a fully-charged battery, and spin the engine over with the key & starter (with the plugs still out). Raise the rear wheels and support the rear with jack stands to prevent any truck movement. NOW re-install NEW plugs and see if it'll start. Starting fluid may be necessary until you get the stall gas purged through the carb.
Good Luck and keep us posted with your progress!
BarnieTrk