Truck keeps stalling
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Truck keeps stalling
Hello everyone, I realize that this post is for 150's but I've been told that the fuel system is basically the same as my f350 with a 7.5L. Since this was not a popular year for this truck it is very difficult to find any info on it. Basically it's
a '97 F350 7.5L w/auto trans. Dual tanks. Last week my truck all of a sudden died on my way to work. Came back later and it started right up. Drove for a few miles, then quit again. Like it was running out of gas. Both tanks were well over half full and made no difference which tank I switched to. The truck drove fine for the next few days. Now it's worse than ever. I tested the fuel pressure. Only 28psi @ idle w/vacuum connected and 38psi vacuum disconnected. I keep getting the ever popular P0171 and P0174 codes. And recently a P0102 code. Bank 1 lean, Bank 2 lean and MAS sensor. I replaced the fuel pressure reg. and it actually reads even less now, about 23psi @ idle. Replaced the MAF sensor, PCV valve and fuel filter. No change. The eng wants to start. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. Truck ran flawless and tons of power before, still does...when it runs. This is my only truck at the moment and has to get me to work. Any help and info is greatly appreciated. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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a '97 F350 7.5L w/auto trans. Dual tanks. Last week my truck all of a sudden died on my way to work. Came back later and it started right up. Drove for a few miles, then quit again. Like it was running out of gas. Both tanks were well over half full and made no difference which tank I switched to. The truck drove fine for the next few days. Now it's worse than ever. I tested the fuel pressure. Only 28psi @ idle w/vacuum connected and 38psi vacuum disconnected. I keep getting the ever popular P0171 and P0174 codes. And recently a P0102 code. Bank 1 lean, Bank 2 lean and MAS sensor. I replaced the fuel pressure reg. and it actually reads even less now, about 23psi @ idle. Replaced the MAF sensor, PCV valve and fuel filter. No change. The eng wants to start. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. Truck ran flawless and tons of power before, still does...when it runs. This is my only truck at the moment and has to get me to work. Any help and info is greatly appreciated. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>
Last edited by Thummmper; Jan 28, 2011 at 05:05 AM. Reason: Mispelling
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When exactly did the engine quit, while you are going down the road, or waiting at a light or corner ? If it's stalling while idling, the IAC usually is the problem. Check your intake air ductwork for leaks at joints, cracks. What is engine vacuum at warm idle ?
Dave
Dave
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I died on me while I was driving at approx 60mph. It also dies at idle. Doesn't seem to matter what the rpm. Since yesterday I replaced a few vacuum hoses just in case, also the TPS. I checked all the intake duct work and electrical connections. I have an IAC valve on order and it will be here today. I will put that on after work today. The truck will start perfect and idle at approx 1200 rpm for a few seconds and then die. I can't keep it running long enough anymore to check vacuum. After this I'm at a complete loss and running out of options as this is my only vehicle at the moment.
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While you are waiting for the IAC ( and this may not fix it, because it wouldn't stall the engine at 60 mph), check all grounding straps and wires to the engine, and harness connections to the engine. Sounds like something is loose.
Dave
Dave
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Thanks Dave,
I ruled out the fuel pump because I have dual tanks with a pump in each tank. Doesn't matter which tank I'm running. Pressure is the same and so is the problem. I put the old pressure regulater back on since it had the higher psi reading. It starts right up...perfect...for about 3 or 4 seconds....then just dies.
I ruled out the fuel pump because I have dual tanks with a pump in each tank. Doesn't matter which tank I'm running. Pressure is the same and so is the problem. I put the old pressure regulater back on since it had the higher psi reading. It starts right up...perfect...for about 3 or 4 seconds....then just dies.
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I had a dual tank Ford a long time ago, and the tank selector went bad, almost like it was hung between tanks. The end result was no gas from either ?
Dave
Dave
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Update.....nope, was getting fuel the whole time on both tanks. But when I bought a brand new fuel pressure regulator, it was actually lower by 5 psi...so I put the old one back on. Besides all the stuff mentioned before I also removed and cleaned any grounds I could find, replaced the IAC and cap and rotor. I also put in a bottle of "Heet" to remove any water in the tank. Truck is running smoother than ever . Not entirely sure what the exact problem was but I'm pretty sure it was a combination of things that led to the overall problem. As it got worse...it started screwing with other sensors and led me around in a parts changing goose chase. Since nothing would test bad when it was running and then couldn't test anything because it wasn't. Only problem now is the drone/howling coming from the intake tube. Which is as I understand from the IAC. But it's brand new. Had that problem once before and removed the small canister from the IAC to the intake tube. Now that noise is louder than ever so I put the canister back on and it made it a little quieter but is still there. But running good again. Thanks for all the input everyone.
Last edited by Thummmper; Jan 31, 2011 at 10:03 AM. Reason: reword
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Sometimes, especially lately, issues pop up with no reasonable explanation. I don't know where you are, but a lot of people are having problems with gas line freeze. They live where it's suppose to be warm, then you get these arctic fronts go through. Any accumulated water in the tank(s) can freeze, and also inside the regulator and fuel rail. Now they have stalling and running problems.
Dave
Dave
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