88 Bronco won’t start

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Jan 25, 2011 | 01:52 PM

88OJ

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88 Bronco won’t start

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9; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> So I driving my 88 Bronco 351 one morning and everything was going fine. I parked in my driveway like I always do. I went back out to start it and nothing. I turn the key and all electrical comes (radio, dash light, heater) on, and I can hear what I think is the fuel pump turning on for a few seconds, but then that’s about it. I don’t hear any clicking like I thought I would if I had a dead battery. Below are the things I have done so far

Tried jumping – No luck
Check and cleaned wire coming off the battery - No Change
Replaced the starter coil – Still nothing
Jumped the starter coil by placing a screwdriver from the center plug of the coil to the outgoing line the leads to the start. It started right up, and ran fine.

Do you think the new starter coil be bad, or maybe a wire. I am at a loss for what could be wrong.

Any advice or help would be much appreciated.

Jan 25, 2011 | 03:00 PM

greystreak92

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From: Gateway to the West

Welcome to FTE and the Big Bronco Forum. We will do our best to get you the most accurate info we can.

Is the shift linkage loose? If so, it may be that the neutral safety switch is not engaging and letting power through to the start solenoid. To test for power at the start solenoid from the ignition, disconnect the small RED/LT.BLUE wire from the solenoid and with help from a friend, take a voltage reading between that wire and the negative terminal on the battery WHILE your friend turns the key to the "START" position. IF things are working properly, you SHOULD get battery voltage between that wire and the negative battery terminal. If you don't get power, back up to the neutral safety switch and check both sides of it for voltage in the same manner.

Jan 25, 2011 | 04:29 PM

88OJ

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ontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w

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9; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]--> Thank you for the feedback... I will take a look at the neutral safety switch when I get home.

Would you or anybody happen to have a link that shows where the NSS is located? If it helps the bronco has a 3 speed automatic in it.

Jan 25, 2011 | 05:31 PM

Txranger79

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Its on the left hand side of the transmission, a half/round shaped switch with a lever going to it. You can always look up on an auto parts website to get a better idea of what to look for.

Apr 20, 2011 | 10:46 AM

88OJ

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Thank you again for the feedback.

So for an update. The truck still will not start what I have done so far.

1)Tried jumping – No luck
2)Check and cleaned wire coming off the battery - No Change
3)Replaced the starter coil – Still nothing
4)Jumped the starter coil by placing a screwdriver from the center plug of the coil to the outgoing line the leads to the start. It started right up, and ran fine
5)Replaced the neutral safety switch - The truck will turn crank now in park and in neutral but will not start
6)Jumped started the truck and it started. I pulled off the jumper cables and it died. Then it would not start back up. I thought I might have flooded it and so I let it sit for a day. Came back and tried to start it and nothing. I tried to jump it and nothing
7)Checked battery - Battery was only putting out 350 (it should have 850 cold cranking amps) cold cranking amps so it got replaced
8) Tried to start the truck and it still just cranks but does not turn over.

I am kind of think that maybe a fuel filter might be clogged and is not getting gas, but I am not sure.

Any suggestions would help.
Thanks

Apr 20, 2011 | 10:52 AM

greystreak92

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From: Gateway to the West

If the truck can be jump started but dies when the jumpers are removed, the alternator and/or charging circuit are the problem. (Good reason why your battery isn't fully charged either).

When you turn the key ON but NOT START can you hear the fuel pump prime? (Whining sound from the rear of the truck that should only last a couple of seconds).

Apr 20, 2011 | 11:10 AM

88OJ

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Thank you for the fast reply. I think I can hear the pump prime (will need to check again) but with a new battery shouldn't the truck start even if the alternator and/o charging circuit is the problem?

Also is there any way to tell if it is alternator or the charging circuit or are they one in the same issue?

Again thanks for the help

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Apr 21, 2011 | 09:45 AM

88OJ

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So what do you all think could be preventing it from starting now. I was thinking about changing out the fuel filter. My thinking is that it might have gotten clogged after starting once after sitting for 6 months. Maybe stuff settled and then clogged it up once it started

Apr 22, 2011 | 11:11 AM

#10

greystreak92

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From: Gateway to the West

Its a classic example of "it couldn't hurt". GO fore it. The worst case is that it still won't start. Have you by chance pulled KOEO test results (codes). Since it won't start, you cannot get KOER results but the continuous memory codes might be of some help here.

Apr 23, 2011 | 10:09 AM

#11

toolman

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From: Spokane, Wa.

I have to agree with Greystreak...pulling the codes should always be the *first* thing you do. I'm wondering if you don't have a bad TFI. I've seen them fail outright and die, and I've seen them flake for a period of time, during which you see random running conditions. Additionally it might be cheaper and easier to get a fuel pressure test set before changing the filter.

Just my .02 cents.....

-Scott

Apr 25, 2011 | 12:04 PM

#12

88OJ

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So I have not checked any codes, but that sounds like it would be good to do. So the codes will get sent when it tries to start?

Also I have two questions:
1) What is a TFI? (kind of new at this working on my own car)
2) How do I test fuel pressure? Can somebody link me to a page that outlines those tests?

Thanks

Apr 25, 2011 | 06:49 PM

#13

greystreak92

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From: Gateway to the West

Have a good read through this site. All you could ever want to know a out pulling codes there. Also search this forum keyword "codes" and "abbreviations".

TFI - Thick Film Integrated circuit module. The term is used interchangeably with ICM - Integrated Circuit Module or Igntion Control Module. In your 88 it will be a plastic box with a 7-pin connector at one end that is mounted to the side of the distributor.

There is a Schrader valve (looks like a tire valve stem) on the fuel rail. It is usually capped like a tire stem. Uncap and connect a fuel pressure gauge. Turn the key ON don't START. Read the gauge. It should be somewhere in the 35-40 psi range.

Apr 26, 2011 | 12:42 PM

#14

Kemicalburns

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From: Bend,OR

did you replace the solenoid on the passenger side fender?

Apr 26, 2011 | 01:30 PM

#15

88OJ

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Thank you all for the updated. I will check the PSI and the TFI. I have a code reader that I will hook up and see what I can find out. I have read the post talking about the codes and I sure I will be be able to find what I am looking for there.

Kemicalburns ~ Yes I have replaced the following itesm

1) Solenoid
2) Neutral Safety Switch - The truck will now start to crank but not start
3) Battery - Only had 350 cold crank amps

Next to do.
1) Test for codes
2) check fuel PSI
3) pray for the truck to start. I really miss my bronco.

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