I need to pull the engine in my Slick to seal it up. It is leaking too much oil, mainly from the oil pan gasket. I want to pull it out and put all new gaskets and rear main seal in it.

This has a 4sp tranny. Which is easier to do, pull just the engine or the engine and tranny as a whole? I've never pulled an engine out of a Ford but done plenty of Chevys. For the Chevy, it is easier just to pull the engine.

 

I've always found it easier to put one guy in the cab holding the shifter, and one guy underneath, to lower the trans to the ground. That way you don't have to remove the shifter assembly. Then just pull the engine and bell housing in one piece. Not very hard. I once used 2 pieces of angle iron, and just moved the trans back. I was only replacing a clutch though, and so it wasn't hangin out there long.

 

I wouldn't want to try to pull the engine with that big ol' cast iron 4 speed hanging on the back! You should be able to pull the engine with the trans still in the truck.

 

Pulling the engine/tranny in a unit requires beefy lifting equipment and lots of overhead. You also need a load tilting mechanism that will allow you to tip the engine at a very steep angle to clear the firewall in the rear and the radiator support in the front. I have done it and it is not worth the trouble. Much easier to separate the engine from the tranny and then just lift it out. Steve

 

Here's an afterthought. Just recently my neighbor and I removed a 289 from a 1967 Galaxie with the auto tranny attached. Now this is a much smaller and lighter combined unit than the FE with cast iron tranny. My story is aimed more at the safety issues of pulling a large assembly out of a vehicle. I had a manifold lift in my bag of tricks and it seemed like just the ticket to get that motor and tranny out of the Galaxie. So I yanked the carb and installed the manifold lift. This consists of a plate of heavy aluminum with an eye bolt. the plate slides over the four carb studs and you're ready to lift. Well, not quite. I did not realize that the eye was not welded shut. when the assembly was coming out over the top of the radiator support, I got the sensation that the load was settling downward but I could not tell at first what was happening. Soon I saw that the eye had started to open up and was slipping slowly to the point where the engine and tranny was going to drop. My neighbor said afterward that he had never seen anyone move so fast in his life. I grabbed a come-along that was hanging nearby and ran up a 6 foot ladder that was also still at hand from hooking up the hoist to the jib arm. I wrapped a chain around the load and hooked it onto the jib arm just before the eye gave up completely. There was a hell of a bang when it gave way but the chain held everything until we could re-rig and lift it out. The most important thing I learned was that you need to use the right eiquipment. I had used that lifting bracket to move engines around the shop and before that had never had any trouble. But with the tranny attached and the severe angle of lift, I was just asking too much of it. I also decided that I should run out and buy a lottery ticket because of how lucky I was with my narrowly diverted disaster but I must have used up all my luck 'cause the ticket did not win me a dang thing. Safetly First, Steve

 

Big Mike, Just remove the bellhousing to trans bolts if you do not plan on removing the trans. Then you can clean up the bell, check clutch etc while you are at it. I like to use the carb type lift plates. You may also want to check the brgs if it has a lot of miles on it. Usually if the rear main is leaking its a sign the brgs are not so good anymore.

I started the same project on my 65' it turned into a MAJOR job... 5mo later I had it back together. The "Might as wells" can really add up. LOL

I just pulled a 352 not too long ago and it had NEVER been apart! Still have another to pull in the next month or so.

 

Mike: Before you pull the engine, would you do yourself a favor first? Please double check the source of the leak. FE engines are notorious for leaking from the backside of the intake manifold in such a way as to make it look like a pan gasket or a main oil seal leak. When this happened to me, I didn't find it until I thoroughly cleaned the backside of the engine, removed all oily remnants (with kerosene and brake cleaner) and then checked for leaks. If this is the answer, it will be much easier to fix, an you won't risk nearly as much scratching that beautiful paint job.

 

Thanks for the advise guys.

The problem I've seen in the past with the lifting by the manifold is that it can lead to leaks. But then again, I'm thinking of a small 4 barrel and new intake.

The engine was rebuilt about 30k ago but that was probably close to 10 years. It doesn't smoke and is extremely strong. The leaks are due to the truck being driven so little and the gaskets shrinking up (well, that is my theory. seen it many times in the past). I won't replace the head gaskets because my buddy that I bought the truck from did that within the last 10k miles. The shop that rebuilt the engine double up the head gaskets for some reason, probably crappy gas in Oregon/Idaho, who knows. But if I have the oil pan off, it wouldn't hurt to replace the main bearings since they are so cheap.

I really want the work to be minimal since I'll be pulling the front clip and bed next winter and also installing a C6. But as much oil as it's leaking, I don't want to drive it for 10 months like that. There is probably 3 ozs. pooled in the drip pan under it now and I only drove it 3 times since I cleaned the pan.

 

Thanks, I plan to thoroughly clean it with solvent and a pressure washer before yanking it out. I hope it is something simple like that. I almost hope it's the manifold so it will give me an excuse to install and eldebrock intake and holley 600 cfm 4 barrel.

Thanks for the tip on the manifold!

 

Heck, if that's the way you feel, I hope it's the entire engine and transmission too! That way you can end up with a 460 V8 and 6 speed auto!!

 

Pulled engine on both 65's more often than I want to remember, I have found separating better, have done on several occasions without removing radiator, and support, but had to use a tilt arm and attached to block using bolts. On 1 occasion removed them together and it was at a 'Pick n Pull' where I had the use of the tall engine hoist, reached its full extention and still had to remove the radiator, and support.

IMO, it's not removing the engine, rather the installing that's the pain in the backside. Suggest take extra steps and hopefully it will go relatively quick. Out of frustration, there were couple occasions had to leave it only to return few hours later, or the next day, and surprisingly enough had the engine installed withing 15-30 min's. Found prepping tended to help; i.e., purchasing clutch pilot tool, only cost a few buck and can save time. Considering it now takes these ole bones day or two longer to recover I always replace the throwout bearing and clutch in the hopes of putting the next installation off a little longer. IMO, Fed Mogul is a very good quality throwout bearing, purchased mine at local NAPA store and they usually come with a grease fitting. Suggest have salesperson set their selection out and pick which you find the better quality. Basically, set clutch assembly in position, the clutch arm has a metal wire clip to hold it in position, might want to add little grease to shaft, and then it's a matter of having all the stars in alignment and if everything goes well the engine and tranny will slide together on the first attempt. Found loosening, possibly removing, tranns mount bolts can help, may need to lift tranny slightly to get correct alignment; oh, if not familiar, try and not move the clutch arm until certain the shaft is set into the pilot hole, otherwise, may need to start over. Anyhow, had an urge to chime in and add my $.02.

 

Thanks Dave, good advise. I have so many clutch alignment tools laying around, maybe one will work (Chevy, MG, Toyota). But like you said, they're only a few bucks.

Since I didn't want the mess in my driveway, I went to the DIY car wash today and degreased the engine. I had to wait in line and it's only 2 minutes from the house so the engine never got really hot.

So far at first glance, the front seal is leaking. I know that the valve covers are as well but how do I tell if the intake is leaking? Where should I look?

Thanks again all.

 

That's precisely why I've always built my own manifold lifts out of angle iron and steel plate, with a solid eye milled into the plate. They're maybe a tad over-engineered but they won't fail at the eye.

Another $.02 addition.


Joe

 

That's an issue with these vintage treasures when they set for extended period of time. I find that once I've driven the truck for awhile occasionally the pestering leak will subside with the gaskets swelling, have a throwout bearing that squeels like a greased pig if allow to set for any length of time and usually goes away within few miles. I have yet to be able to totally seal the 390 hog, sometime of opinion engine was designed with a leak.

While the engine is running I would take a Vac test and see if reading and see if there is a steady needle in the range of 18-21 inches of Vac. Depending upon reading, and the needle reaction can sometimes provide a clue as to what's going on with the engine. Low steady reading can suggest number of issues to include timing, tappets, intake leak, etc. Sometimes if needle pulsates regularly can suggest problem in a particular cyl. Also, large sweeps under at higher speeds could suggest valve spring, and on the otherhand at higher speed with rapid small pulsations could suggest intake leak. Also suggest taking a compression test on all cyl. with both test more as a base, or reference point when the engine is installed and running. Anyhow, food for thought.

 

Hey Mike,
I drive my 66 F100 352 daily. It has a little drip or two that's kind of annoying but with regular driving, it doesn't drip as much. Since you said you're pulling the front clip off in a few months to install a C6, I think I would just drive it more often and see if the leak lessens rather than pull the engine now. You can do all that stuff while you have it out in a few months and it'll be a whole lot less work in the long run. Just a thought.....
Randy