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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 08:46 PM
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Frame Rust Questions

Hey, so the bed is off and at the body shop. So now I'm sitting here staring at this frame. What would be my best route here? Again, this is sorta a budget build. I would like to clean up the frame and get rid of the rust, but keep it cheap. Is there a reformer out there I could spray on that would prevent further rusting and reform whats already there? I just want a presentable frame, doesnt need to be spotless!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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HIO Silver
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Cool.

Drill and wire wheels + grinder and flap wheels + time + safety equipment + phosphoric acid ("Concrete Etcher", $12 a gallon at HD) + POR-15= Decent frame
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Cool.

Drill and wire wheels + grinder and flap wheels + time + safety equipment + phosphoric acid ("Concrete Etcher", $12 a gallon at HD) + POR-15= Decent frame
I was thinking same as far as getting rust off. I've heard por 15 will begin to flake after a year or 2 though. How would you apply the acid? Roll?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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By the time you buy all of the materials you need to clean off the frame, you'll have a hundred buck or so into it. Plus many hours of labor. I blasted my frame myself and later found out I could have had it done by a professional for less than what I had invested, not including my time. Price it out, you'll be surprised.

There are a number of different products for finish. I used POR 15. It has been on for about 4 years. No chipping or peeling yet. That said, there are other products out there that are probably as good or better. POR 15 can be a bit touchy to work with. You must follow their directions exactly or you'll have problems. Don't get it on bare skin, its takes a long time to get it off.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by hp246
By the time you buy all of the materials you need to clean off the frame, you'll have a hundred buck or so into it. Plus many hours of labor. I blasted my frame myself and later found out I could have had it done by a professional for less than what I had invested, not including my time. Price it out, you'll be surprised.

There are a number of different products for finish. I used POR 15. It has been on for about 4 years. No chipping or peeling yet. That said, there are other products out there that are probably as good or better. POR 15 can be a bit touchy to work with. You must follow their directions exactly or you'll have problems. Don't get it on bare skin, its takes a long time to get it off.
I have the majority of supplies I'd need. Wire wheels, flaps, grinder, etc. But I also planned on calling around to get a quote on getting it blasted. I just got back from the body shop and he actually said rustoleum of all things? He said there rust reformer spray works great for what I need it for. Kinda took me by suprised.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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hp246
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Originally Posted by Holiver31
I have the majority of supplies I'd need. Wire wheels, flaps, grinder, etc. But I also planned on calling around to get a quote on getting it blasted. I just got back from the body shop and he actually said rustoleum of all things? He said there rust reformer spray works great for what I need it for. Kinda took me by suprised.
My advice is to stay away from Rustoleum. I used it on my frame first. It peeled off after less than 6 months. I had to clean everything up again (Though not to the same extent as the first time). It was at this point that I used the POR 15. Again, do a search on this site. Others have had good luck with other products too. I would think an epoxy primer with a BC CC would be better than Rustoleum.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:05 PM
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Spend the money and have it done right. I had mine blasted, epoxy primed, and DuPont Imron painted for five bills even. Anyone with any experience sandblasting will tell you to have a pro do it, especially something as big as a frame. I'm very happy with it.

-Jared
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:33 PM
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I'm planning on doing my frame too. Have looked at differant ideas. best is to pull box, maybe even cab if you get carried away. Carefully remove wiring from frame and tape up out of the way. Send to sand blast dude, let him do it all, frame, brake lines, rear end ect. Three coats heavy epoxy primer, can usually get it in black. If not shoot the last coat with semi black over wet primer just before flash. Replace brake and fuel lines (over 30 years old anyway more than likeley)...Done. Probably less than 500 clams.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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HIO Silver
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Originally Posted by Holiver31
I was thinking same as far as getting rust off. I've heard por 15 will begin to flake after a year or 2 though. How would you apply the acid? Roll?
After removing what you can of the rust, I use acid-soaked rags to apply the etcher and then cover the area with Saran wrap so it doesn't evaporate very fast. It's great for small parts because I can fill a bucket with a 50/50 mix and soak parts overnight.

My OP is focused on a very low-budget way to get a decent frame. Sure, there is the option to strip the frame naked but it's your call on how deep you want to take it. My next project - likely a 2WD bumpside, will get the full treatment with a powdercoated frame.
 
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