No Start - IPR Replacement?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
Thoroughly check the wiring harness on both sides of the 42 pin connector. That is the connector in the bracket that sits above the driver side valve cover. It has been know to chafe on the VC and on the inboard side of the bracket.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: NorCal
I plan on inspecting the Yellow/LtBlue wire between the IDM and PCM as well as the harness you mentioned tomorrow. If i cannot find a problem I'll pull the IDM and see it there's something wrong under the cover.
As a side note, I am considering moving the IDM from it's current amazingly accessible location to inside the engine compartment...
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Garden City, KS
I did quickly check that harness when it wouldn't fire and didn't visually notice any problems.
I plan on inspecting the Yellow/LtBlue wire between the IDM and PCM as well as the harness you mentioned tomorrow. If i cannot find a problem I'll pull the IDM and see it there's something wrong under the cover.
As a side note, I am considering moving the IDM from it's current amazingly accessible location to inside the engine compartment...
I plan on inspecting the Yellow/LtBlue wire between the IDM and PCM as well as the harness you mentioned tomorrow. If i cannot find a problem I'll pull the IDM and see it there's something wrong under the cover.
As a side note, I am considering moving the IDM from it's current amazingly accessible location to inside the engine compartment...
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: NorCal
Update. Using a Simpson 260 I ohmed the circuit between the PCM and IDM and it was perfect. Yes I did shake, squeeze and pull the hell out of it while I was testing it. I also checked for ground shorts and found none. I then thoroughly inspected the 42 pin connector and harness, all of which were good.
I put everything back together making sure the connectors were good and tight and clean. I ran my buzz test and KOEO test and they both came back successful with no DTC's. Looks like my 1218 might've been self inflicted. Then I began the fun task of putting the fender well back together!
I pulled out the wiring for the F5 and tested it. There doesn't seem to be any problems with it. That being said, the F5 is still on my work bench and the truck still starts.
Tomorrow I'll try to put the tuner back in see if my problem comes back with it....
I put everything back together making sure the connectors were good and tight and clean. I ran my buzz test and KOEO test and they both came back successful with no DTC's. Looks like my 1218 might've been self inflicted. Then I began the fun task of putting the fender well back together!
I pulled out the wiring for the F5 and tested it. There doesn't seem to be any problems with it. That being said, the F5 is still on my work bench and the truck still starts.
Tomorrow I'll try to put the tuner back in see if my problem comes back with it....
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Posting Guru
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From: NorCal
Actually, I think the later 7.3L's did this. I saw a picture where one guy's IDM was beside the distribution block under the hood. Either way, I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Only think I see wrong with that is that it's more likely to get wet. May or may not be a problem, just my take on it.
While putting th ABS connector back on I looked up and noticed I had a clear shot of the IDM. Granted, i'd have to have to wedge part of the fender well out of the way but it looks doable.
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Posting Guru
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From: NorCal
Update!
January was a VERY dry and warm month for us. The truck has been running just fine with the DP pulled. This week it started raining/snowing again. I make it to work just fine, but when I tried to leave... well, she fired right up and idled normally. I let her run for a few minutes and the engine just stopped and wouldn't restart. Back to square one.
I hooked up AE, ICP DC and PSI are good as is RPM and Voltage. Buzz test fails and I get 3 nice codes now...
DTC pulls...
P1670 : Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected
U1027 : SCP (J1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Engine RPM
U1262 : SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault
KOEO pulls:
P1667 : Cylinder ID Circuit
SOOOO.... Do you guys think my assumption of IDM Failure is correct? If so, I'll be contacting swamps first thing Tuesday morning!
January was a VERY dry and warm month for us. The truck has been running just fine with the DP pulled. This week it started raining/snowing again. I make it to work just fine, but when I tried to leave... well, she fired right up and idled normally. I let her run for a few minutes and the engine just stopped and wouldn't restart. Back to square one.
I hooked up AE, ICP DC and PSI are good as is RPM and Voltage. Buzz test fails and I get 3 nice codes now...
DTC pulls...
P1670 : Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected
U1027 : SCP (J1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Engine RPM
U1262 : SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault
KOEO pulls:
P1667 : Cylinder ID Circuit
SOOOO.... Do you guys think my assumption of IDM Failure is correct? If so, I'll be contacting swamps first thing Tuesday morning!
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,340
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Here are a couple of links that might help:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-no-start.html
Cylinder Identification (CID)
I would also make sure your batteries are in good shape and fuses are good and have a good connections. My Dad's truck had an intermittent voltage issue to the windows and turned out to be a bad fuse connection. Looks like that 2nd link you would need a break-out box for testing. Good luck........
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-no-start.html
Cylinder Identification (CID)
I would also make sure your batteries are in good shape and fuses are good and have a good connections. My Dad's truck had an intermittent voltage issue to the windows and turned out to be a bad fuse connection. Looks like that 2nd link you would need a break-out box for testing. Good luck........
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,265
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From: Garden City, KS
It's really looking like it's moisture related. I would think the fact that the PCM is reading things like ICP and such rules the PCM out. I think you're on the right track... what you might could try is pulling the cover off the IDM as if you were doing the 140V IDM mod (maybe even do that while you're in there) and try drying it out really good. Then, just seal it all back up with RTV... might save you the cost of a new one. You've got nothing to loose, right? Know anybody that has an IDM you could swap in there to try?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: NorCal
It's really looking like it's moisture related. I would think the fact that the PCM is reading things like ICP and such rules the PCM out. I think you're on the right track... what you might could try is pulling the cover off the IDM as if you were doing the 140V IDM mod (maybe even do that while you're in there) and try drying it out really good. Then, just seal it all back up with RTV... might save you the cost of a new one. You've got nothing to loose, right? Know anybody that has an IDM you could swap in there to try?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Garden City, KS
Try car-part... I got my '00 PCM off of there for $125.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: NorCal
I couldn't find a IDM on CarPart.com but thank you for the link! I pulled the IDM today after going through the wiring harnesses again. Thought I'd run a KOEO with the IDM out and it came back with the same P1667 .
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Garden City, KS
Hmmm... might have something. If it throws the same code when you know for sure the IDM isn't responding (unplugging it), then I wonder if that isn't your answer right there?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Garden City, KS
Here you go, man... this is how I got mine. I just started at the bottom and called up until I found one that sounded right! This page will take you to the lowest-priced/not-priced items. Make sure to get an IDM outta a '00 or newer so it'll be the 120V, not the 110V. If they give a part number, then just look and make sure it says "AD" at the end.
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Posting Guru
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From: NorCal
Here you go, man... this is how I got mine. I just started at the bottom and called up until I found one that sounded right! This page will take you to the lowest-priced/not-priced items. Make sure to get an IDM outta a '00 or newer so it'll be the 120V, not the 110V. If they give a part number, then just look and make sure it says "AD" at the end.
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That link really helped. I'll be callin some of the semi-local yards to see what they got. I'll be sure to keep you updated.