Having something bad with the electromagnet will prevent the o-ring rebuild from helping, but from what I have read, that is a rare problem... much rarer than having the having worn o-rings allow pressure loss or dirt/crud causing the valve to stick.

 

Like I said... mine has 300K on it and it still works like it should!

 

I only mention this because I know that sometimes folks are cash strapped. I just hate to take anything away from either Ed or Clay, but you can sometimes find a really good deal on eBay. I would have paid the extra cash if I could have afforded to just to support Ed or Clay, but when I needed the valves, I got one for $135 and another for $142, both brand new units.

 

Thanks for all the info and advice guys! I'll be sure to post my findings as soon as UPS gets here! I'm feeling pretty confident I'll be able to find the problem now.... I hope

 

I asked someone if they would send me a couple these IPR solenoids/electromagnets. He sent me 4 (all used) and all had a steady ohm reading. The one with the lowest at 10.2 ohms and the one with the highest at 10.6 ohms.

Someone had a rough idle with slight increases and decreases in rpm. I had him ohm the solenoid and the reading was jumpimg between 10 and 10.8 ohms. I sent him a solenoid (in general they are only available with the purhase of a new IPR) and after install the idle was smooth. He even put the old one back in just to be sure it was the solenoid and rough idle returned. Like mentioned previously a bad solenoid is very rare (it's only a winding) but it is easy to check as well as the connection and wiring.

 

I might have to try that... my truck used to do that, but quite after the HPx. Might not even be related... also, my duty cycle reads constant when running so, I doubt my solenoid is shot.

 

I just cleaned my IPR a few months ago when mine stopped running and put it back in and it has been running good ever since. I called Clay and was going to order the O ring kit but he asked me if it was leaking (it was not I told him) and he asked me why I wanted to replace them. Point taken I did not and still no problems. So maybe 30-45 min some carb cleaner and a little lube and problem solved. I did buy the AE though and was glad I did. Stealership told me the HPOP was out and wanted about 2k to fix it. Real glad I did not go that route.
So it is at least worth the time to clean it and slapp it back on and either fix or eliminate that part of the puzzle.
Out
Joe

 

Back last year when my IPR went bad I checked the oil pressure with AE and it showed between 20-50 psi while cranking to start IIRC. I borrowed a IPR from Mike(TENN01PSD350) and it fired right up. So I bought a new one on flebay for $120.00 put it in a ran great. So I wanted to find out whats wrong with the old IPR so I took it apart and cleaned it again didn't see any thing bad. So I swapped coils on the new one on the truck and the one I took out that quit. It didn't work so i put the new coil back on an it fired right up. Robins post just made me curious so I just went out to the garage and dug out my old IPR and checked the Ohms again and they check 10.6 and I am pretty sure that the solenoid is the problem on it.

 

Update:
Got AE last night. Got everything installed and went out to do some troubleshooting. Had the typical DTC's, nothing out of the ordinary, and I cleared them.

Battery Voltage : 12.6vdc
While cranking, ICP Duty Cycle climbed to 48-52% and ICP Pressure climbed to 2200 psi. Still no start. Rpm's were around 180-190.

Yay for it not being the IPR, ICP or CPS. BOOOO on moving to the next step.

KOEO test failed, no codes.
Buzz test failed, no codes. I was not able to hear the buzz from inside the cab with the hood open and windows down. Not having performed this test before, I went out next to the engine and was able to hear a faint buzzing for all and the individual injectors all made the same buzz as the all buzz. I couldn't here any differentiation between them. I closed the hood and went in for the night.

This AM, went out, got AE all set up, cranked and she started right up. Go figure! Shut her down. KOEO was successful with no codes.... NOW here's the sad part. I reran the buzz test. Holy loud, I was able to hear the buzz for sure from within the cab and could hear the buzz move from injector to injector. While doing this test, the RPM needle moves to 3000 while all 8 are running and around 750 for each individual.

Now i'm suspecting the IDM or the wiring getting to the IDM... What do you guys think?

 

I started to say I had no problem hearing mine during the buzz test. So when you did the buzz test the 2nd time and was actually able to hear them, did it pass???

 

In the no start trouble shooting guide PDF I attached in post 13 it does say that if the ICP keeps rising during a no start, as it did during your no start yesterday, it is most likely an electrical problem.

Next time you have AE hooked up during a no start (I hope you don't have another no start) monitor vehicle power and engine rpms. Registering engine rpms (minimum to start is 100) will rule out the CPS and if the voltage while cranking is 10.5 or more that can be ruled out.

You did open that PDF didn't you? Good stuff in there and it's by a very experienced 7.3 expert.

 

Yes, That is what I used for my testing.

Step 5, "Remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet"

In the light of things, the truck would not start. I removed my DP Tuner and it fired right up. I suppose it could be the tuner, or controller, or wiring to that setup. The fact that it would fire and sometimes not fire led me away from the tuner.

 

Yes, it passed with flying colors. Very loud and distinct buzzing.

 

I cannot get it to NOT start since I removed my DP Tuner F5. I'm going to call it a day and try to start her again tomorrow and see what happens.

What's bugging me now is, I'm getting a P1218 code when I perform the Buzz Test and KOEO test.

P1218 : CID High : Code p1218 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

I half-hope it's still the IDM for sake of the DP. However, I'll be happy just finding a solution to my headache!

Thanks all for your help so far!

 

I was able to pull the fender liner and get to the IDM. I've only pulled the connector off and so far it looks good and clean. I put the connector back on and the 1218 is still coming up. I guess I'll have to chase the wiring between the IDM and PCM and HOPE it's the problem... too bad it'll have to wait until Monday now