If you've got the extra money, and wish to avoid a messy afternoon, then I'd say this was a reasonably-priced way to get 'er done! He doesn't have the fear of the unknown that you do. Stick around and watch the process to get over that fear for next time.

But tell him that you insist he use an inch-pound torque wrench on ALL the bolts, including the pan bolts. It's important. Give him the values used in Guzzle's write-up.

Pop

 

I tow about 7k now and eventually no more than 9k. I am not replacing the tc until the tranny craps out

 

The problem with that sort of thinking is that as long as you keep it below "overkill" level, life is good. Now, what happens when you exceed it? I have bought "just enough" too many times and spent more later on when I would be money ahead of the game if I bought "overkill" the first time.

 

Well noted but but I am not a HP junkie, I don't drive my truck like I stole it, I will never be on a dyno and I will not hook over 9k to my bumper. A slightly modded stock tranny will probably be fine for me I just want it reliable for my needs

 

You are not YET, you mean. Read my sig. Originally, I bought a gas Yukon XL and wanted a shift kit and then an ECM tune. Went to a Powerstroke and swore that I would only get a tuner and maybe a VB. See what happened?

When my trans broke, I knew I needed a replacement. BTW, I don't think your truck should be hauling over 10K since that is the weight rating. I haul about that much with the RV and the ATVs in it. I went with a BTS because that is the only company I have read about that will allow me to mod the truck and keep the "forever" warranty. Everything breaks sooner or later. I spent more today so I wouldn't have to spend more tomorrow.

If you are dumping the truck ASAP, get whatever is cheapest since the new buyer won't give you squat for it. If you are keeping it for a few years and no mods, lifting the truck, etc, etc, IOW 100% stock, get a stock reman since they will warranty you for 3 years. I was plannign to mod the truck and keep it till it runs into the ground so I went with BTS. My warranty is up a year ago but I know that if I break it tomorrow, I send it in for a new rebuild. More expensive today since there is a "buy in" price. Tomorrow when problems arise, I save.

 

Argh! I didn't know Bob had that on his site. I'll have to remember it.

I did a quick Google search because I realized the instructions I have (that I was going to cut and paste) was for a Gen 2 Lightning. And even though the L's have the same 4R100 (just in a different trans case), the instructions might have confused the OP because it attacks the mod from a slightly different stand point.

Agreed. The fluid and filter would run you at least $50 to $55 bucks, more if you have to buy a torque wrench.

Stewart

 

The part you are changing is the accumulator body.

 

Sorry about the hijack, but I cant find the number or web site to bts, and I would appreciate it if somebody could post up with the info.

 

870-422-3673. Brians Truck Shop

Ask to be on hold. Don't "take a message".

 

Got mine from here(different name now) but Clay sells them too now, heres what it looks like and here's where it goes Like Pop mentioned, torquing those bolts with the proper torque is the most important but otherwise, a easy install.

 

well I got it put in today. I can honestly stay in stock tune i really could not tell a difference. When it warmed up and i was able to put it in 60e and take off from a light i could tell the shifting was more crisp and i could tell the most from 2-3. Overall i like it and if it is helping my tranny last a little longer than its all good.