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need help from electrical expert for project

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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:58 AM
  #1  
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need help from electrical expert for project

See this picture..
I need a little help, if what i'm trying to do is at all possible.



Picasa Web Albums - Jeff - F250
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:24 AM
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so you would want 8 green lights and 8 red lights (on the dash?) to tell you if individual GPs are working or not? sounds like you have too much money and time on your hands.

a relay isnt what you need. you are going to try to read the resistance of a glow plug while its opperating? that would call for some way to read the amp draw of each glow plug. which you will find out that as each gp gets hotter its resistance is going to change untill it gets to its hottest. im sure its doable but why? i just change all 8 when I suspect a couple arent working. that project is coming my way soon (in the cold, out in the driveway) as my order from rif-raf shipped yesterday. already received the stancor GPR last week.
good luck with that project you will be working with the full power of both batteries so be carefull you dont burn your truck to the ground. its a sweet lookin truck too
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:24 AM
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I never understood the point of doing that mod.
You can see the GP's are on by the battery gauge on the dash.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken_C
so you would want 8 green lights and 8 red lights (on the dash?) to tell you if individual GPs are working or not? sounds like you have too much money and time on your hands.

a relay isnt what you need. you are going to try to read the resistance of a glow plug while its opperating? that would call for some way to read the amp draw of each glow plug. which you will find out that as each gp gets hotter its resistance is going to change untill it gets to its hottest. im sure its doable but why? i just change all 8 when I suspect a couple arent working. that project is coming my way soon (in the cold, out in the driveway) as my order from rif-raf shipped yesterday. already received the stancor GPR last week.
good luck with that project you will be working with the full power of both batteries so be carefull you dont burn your truck to the ground.
Because I keep melting harness connectors at the GP, it is a PIA to change GPs in the cold. If I see it going to cost to much I will abort the mission.

From what I've read the newer 7.3l have a better wiring system than mine has, so I would guess the shorting isn't a problem.

Thanks for responding.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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also your diagram assumes 12 continuous volts which will not be the case.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:37 AM
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in my experience melted connectors are almost always the result of a connection being lose. the other times its because of over amp condition like a short. i bet if you replaced the whole shebang IE: valve cover gaskets, harness pigtails, uvch and GPs you would back in business. at the very least the affected uvch and gps and make sure the connection is tight
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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Ken, have you ever looked up the prices for UVCH and gaskets?

30 a UVCH and there are 4 of them, and 80 a gasket.
Thats from partsguy ed.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Talyn
Ken, have you ever looked up the prices for UVCH and gaskets?

30 a UVCH and there are 4 of them, and 80 a gasket.
Thats from partsguy ed.
wow i didnt relize they were that cheap.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken_C
in my experience melted connectors are almost always the result of a connection being lose. the other times its because of over amp condition like a short. i bet if you replaced the whole shebang IE: valve cover gaskets, harness pigtails, uvch and GPs you would back in business. at the very least the affected uvch and gps and make sure the connection is tight
I replaced that entire side in '09.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken_C
also your diagram assumes 12 continuous volts which will not be the case.
You are correct, checking several times the most I seen on that side of GPR is 11.8v.

All this is good info, thanks.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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Wink

Originally Posted by jle70
Because I keep melting harness connectors at the GP, it is a PIA to change GPs in the cold. If I see it going to cost to much I will abort the mission.

From what I've read the newer 7.3l have a better wiring system than mine has, so I would guess the shorting isn't a problem.

Thanks for responding.
Yes they have a heave gauge wire and dont short as the olders. BTW you can upgrade to the SDs style, I dont remember rigth now the links, but it has been done with succesful. Ill try to find the info.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP
Yes they have a heave gauge wire and don't short as the olders. BTW you can upgrade to the SDs style, I don't remember right now the links, but it has been done with successful. Ill try to find the info.
Thanks, I would be grateful for the instructions and links.
That would most likley solve my issues, I don't read much about the newer ones burning. And never found instructions how to update it to new stuff.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:51 PM
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The way you have the circuit drawn, the red light would be on any time the glow-plug wasn't energized.
I doubt you want that, maybe, but I doubt it.
It would be pretty, though, if you arranged them across the top f the windshield.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rickf92592
The way you have the circuit drawn, the red light would be on any time the glow-plug wasn't energized.
I doubt you want that, maybe, but I doubt it.
It would be pretty, though, if you arranged them across the top f the windshield.
it was a rough drawing to get the idea out. LOL
i have not thought of mounting point yet.
Newark.com has some good mini led boards, and in the 8 or 16.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jle70
Thanks, I would be grateful for the instructions and links.
That would most likley solve my issues, I don't read much about the newer ones burning. And never found instructions how to update it to new stuff.
I found this link, but its not what I wanted, but just to support what I said.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/improved-gp-wiring-176933/
 
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