Actually the AOD was brought out in trucks in 1981 behind 5.0 engines. My 81 still has
the original AOD which was rebuilt back in the late 1980s and runs great behind the 351
that I built for the truck.

 

As of 1991 all engines were equiped with the E4OD, a transmission rated for 700lb/ft on the input shaft, more than overkill for a 4.9.

A valvebody that shifts nearly immediately from first to third and the Direct Drive lockup the instant you hit third or fourth are most peoples complaints with them.

If you don't have an AOD now, I would seriously recomend looking into the 4r70 or e4od.

 

I was told that the C6 was a much stronger transmission. I did not like the way the AOD shifted so guickly. Also mine started slipping.

If anyone wants a AOD and all the parts to convert, just come on down, I will trade it for a 6 pack. But it will need a rebuild.

 

As I said before, the AOD was used right up until 1993, Chief.

The only problem with the 4R70W and the E4OD transmissions is the fact that they are computer-controlled, which means they will not run without a controller. That is an added expense for vehicles of this generation because they do not have an existing computer to tell the transmission when to shift. The AOD is all mechanical, meaning it is a "stand alone" transmission that will work without the added expense and complexity of a computer.

Well, at the newest, these trucks are at least twenty-five years old. When exactly did yours "start slipping?"

The TV rod (or cable, in some models) directly controls the transmission line pressure. This adjustment is very important. If the TV rod is not adjusted correctly, it will shift too quickly, and that will burn up the transmission. That is probably why yours started slipping.

 

Lariat, I appreciate your knowledge of the AOD. I have an AOD on my truck now. It still works fine but I'm curious as to what's involved once it needs a rebuild. Assuming I were to buy a rebuilt tranny, what would be involved in swapping out the old for the new? What parts besides the tranny should be replaced/rebuilt? Assuming the new one did NOT come with a new torque converter would that matter? Is there any reason I could not use the one that it came with? Do they get rebuilt or replaced often? What about the flexplate? Anything else I'm forgetting?

I see a lot of complaints about a "TV cable". How difficult is this to calibrate? Do you need a special tool?

Are all AOD's equal? I mean, is there any difference in an AOD in an F-150 with 4x4 vs. an AOD out of a crown vic? How about the years the AOD's were made? Any difference?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm eager to learn as much as I can about them.

 

Thanks for the compliments, Smashclash, but I am by no means an expert on transmissions or even a transmission mechanic. I am just going by common sense, the facts, and my own personal experiences with my own AOD.

The fact that your AOD is still running fine behind your twenty-five year old 1986 F150 says a lot about how "awful" an AOD is rumored to be. I had my own transmission rebuilt about 5 years ago from a personal friend of mine who owns his own transmission shop. He rebuilt mine for $1000 and gave me a 3 year warranty. This is what he recommended:

He told me that it was very important to replace the torque converter with a brand new one, and then he advised me to replace my twenty-five year old radiator. If your radiator is fairly new, make sure to flush out the transmission cooler in the radiator, and flush out all the transmission lines. This is very important because you don't want metal particles in the cooler and lines from the old transmission to contaminate the new one. Also keep in mind that heat is the enemy for any automatic transmission, so I installed a factory auxiliary transmission cooler and cooler lines that mounts to the front of the radiator core support. Make sure the auxiliary cooler and lines are clean and flushed out as well before installation.

Since I converted my 2V carburetor to a 4V, I replaced the stock TV rod with a stainless steel TV cable from Lokar. Since your truck has EFI, I am pretty sure your model already has the TV cable. It is very important that this cable is adjusted properly! This directly controls the transmission line pressure, and if it isn't adjusted properly, it is possible to completely destroy an AOD in just a few miles! As for adjustments, these are usually set with pressure gauges. There are a few write-ups on how to adjust the TV rod or cable by hand, but I strongly suggest you find a trusted transmission shop to make that adjustment for you. Also make sure that the grommet that the TV cable hooks to the throttle body is not old and brittle. I would go ahead and replace this grommet, simply because you don't want to ruin your rebuilt AOD because the $2.00 grommet broke off and the TV cable fell out of adjustment.

An AOD from a Crown Vic is not going to be as strong as an AOD from an F150 or Bronco, simply because trucks are heavier and tend to be harder on a transmission. I have always heard that the strongest one is from an F150 from 1988 and up. There were some improvements made in 1988 that supposedly made the AOD stronger. But since your 1986 AOD is still working fine after twenty five years of service, I wouldn't worry so much about trying to find a later model transmission, and just rebuild the one you already have.

I would also like to stress the importance of fluid and filter changes. Ford (and every other motor company) recommends changing the fluid and filter in an automatic transmission every 3 years/36,000 miles, and that is exactly what you should do. So many people completely neglect their transmissions, and then wonder why they don't last. Just like engine oil, transmission fluid breaks down over time and becomes dirty, and needs to be changed every so often along with the filter to protect the transmission.

 

Thanks for the tips. I was really hoping doing a transmission swap would be something I could do in the driveway but you scare me with the tv cable calibration stuff. If the pressure gauges used on A/C are the same you could use for the tranny than I'd have access to them. Otherwise, I do not.

My radiator started leaking after a wheeling trip a month ago so I replaced it with a new one. My truck also had the towing package and the transmission lines were pretty beat up so I bought a roll of line and refabbed up my own lines. Put everything back and it's fine.

I had replaced the fluid and filter when I bought my truck back in April 2010 and I don't think I've put 1K miles on the truck since I've owned it.

The transmission feels relatively fine. I've never felt a slip feeling. It has a little bit of a jolt going from 1st to 2nd but the rest of the way shifts smooth. The only other questionable issue is if I'm doing something like accelerating hard and then completely let off the gas there is a little bit of a noise what sounds like coming from the driveshaft being loose and than catching. It's nothing to worry about at all and may just be u-joints. However, I've been under the truck and the u-joints seemed tight... although the driveshaft seems to turn quite a bit before it catches... if that makes any sense?

 

According to my factory service manuals, ATSG manuals, and part's suppliers, It was not used in trucks after 91, pal. But maybe I'm mistaken. The E4OD was certainly brought in to take it's place.



I'm well aware of what transmissions are electronically contolled and what aren't. Which is exactly the beauty of them... A 4R70w with a Jmod anyone with google and a drill can do will hold up to anything an 80-86 F 150 owner is likely to throw at them. A similarly built AOD is something I charge 1200 bucks for. A good 4R70 cost's no more than 500 bucks, add in a Baumantor for 400 and you're set for about 400-450 rwhp. Add in the ease of shift point and line pressure adjustments and it becomes a winner for me, in a retrofit situation.



Indeed, that kills many of them, but it doesn't change the fact that the factory VB calibration makes second gear nearly nonexistent in an AOD. That's simply a function of being designed after a fuel crisis in the middle of a fuel crisis.

I never stated that the AOD is a bad transmission, merely that it has shortcomings that can be adressed via aftermarket, or later factory models. Obviously you like yours lol, and more power to you. I've built them for car's in the 11's and one in the high tens. They CAN work, and if you already have one, it's worth a shot. But in my opinion, if you're retrofitting to gain overdrive, there's better candidates out there, since you're doing something custom anyway.

But that's my opinion, and I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on it

BTW the best case is 89 up, anything 83 prior should be avoided for rebuilding purposes.

 

Due to the complexity and expense of an automatic transmission, I wouldn't advise anyone to do a transmission shop in the driveway. This is one area where it pays to have someone who actually knows what they are doing, and can offer a warranty.

If your transmission is shifting fine, I would leave it alone! It does sound like you need to replace your u-joints, something I just did with my own truck last summer.

Well, it looks like we are both correct, 79F-1504x4.
The AOD was redesigned with electronic controls in 1991, becoming the AODE.
However, the AOD was still produced until 1993 and used behind the F150, Bronco, Mustang, Thunderbird, and probably others as well.

A revised version of the AODE was released in 1993, becoming the 4R70W.
However, the AODE was still produced until 1995 and used behind the F150, Mustang, and probably others as well.

Of course the 4R70W is a good transmission, and probably even an improvement over the AOD. But unless someone is producing 400-450 rwhp with their pickup truck, I just don't think it is worth the extra expense to make the swap when you already have a perfectly capable and reliable AOD that can be modified for better performance as well.

That being said, why would you charge more for a simpler, all-mechanical AOD than a computer-controlled 4R70W with electronic solenoids?

 

I start 4r70ws at 1600 lol. I mainly sell to Mustang people though. I have a few E40Ds and 4r100s in plow trucks and whatnot though.

 

$1600 sounds more realistic. Add another $400 for the controller and now we are up to $2000 minimum to make the 4R70W work on the 1980 - 1986 trucks. You said earlier that you charge $1200 for an AOD. That's an $800 difference. Even though the 4R70W is a fine transmission, I suspect most people in here are not pushing 450 rwhp in their trucks. It seems to me that the AOD would be the better choice.

 

4r70ws are still new and low mileage enough I would be comfortable running a JY unit though. Especially in one of these trucks, since without the ease of power increases that fuel injection brings the newer cars with their ability to slap on a vortech and make that power, like you said, most of them are not likely cracking 300 rwhp.

Im just saying, if I were going to retrofit, I would go for the better transmission.

 

since i am the one who ask about all this in the first place.the only reason i ask was,1 we have the c-6. and 2 we where trying to do it on the cheap didnt mean to start a tranny war lol

 

Lol its all in good fun. I dont take people disagreeing personally, this is America after all.

 

EarlM,
I just checked my speedo gear: purple 21 tooth. I'm running 215R75x15's and 3.50 gears (previously said 3.55 gears, but the tag plainly says "3.50") and the speedo is close.

Sorry for the delayed response. How's the schlitterbahn this time of year? Been there several times as we used to live in Katy.