Clutch problem...
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Princeton, NJ
JohnD - Good call on checking the reservoir.
I watched the open reservoir while my accomplice depressed the pedal. Nothing happened. I'd suspect that if the cylinder is as it should be, then the fluid would drop and return. This suggests to me that fluid is getting past the cylinder seals to fill the back side of the piston. Does this sound about right?
I didn't get to check the push rod bushing yet. I do not have an apparent interior leak nor an external leak. It'll be a couple of days before I have daylight to work with due to work.
I watched the open reservoir while my accomplice depressed the pedal. Nothing happened. I'd suspect that if the cylinder is as it should be, then the fluid would drop and return. This suggests to me that fluid is getting past the cylinder seals to fill the back side of the piston. Does this sound about right?
I didn't get to check the push rod bushing yet. I do not have an apparent interior leak nor an external leak. It'll be a couple of days before I have daylight to work with due to work.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
"This suggests to me that fluid is getting past the cylinder seals to fill the back side of the piston. Does this sound about right?"
Yeah, it does to me. I couldn't swear to it in a court of law, but I would think that the fluid level in the reservoir should fall and rise just as you described.
Anyone?
Yeah, it does to me. I couldn't swear to it in a court of law, but I would think that the fluid level in the reservoir should fall and rise just as you described.
Anyone?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Princeton, NJ
This system is basically like a hydraulic brake system, when the piston travels, fluid drops a little, and when released the fluid comes back. Certainly the fluid level must change at least a little during operation. I saw no change at all during operation. I can only conclude that something is amiss in the master cylinder.
I'm hoping to get to this Saturday.
I'm hoping to get to this Saturday.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 77
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From: Princeton, NJ
Replacing the Master Cylinder took care of the problem. Once I got the system bled and the concentric slave cylinder primed, all seemed good. I feel like the pedal is a little different than before this happened, but that may be psychological. It shifts well, positive, no slipping, no leaks. I'm happy.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
The job is really relatively easy. The hardest part is prying/wiggling/swearing the bracket off of the spline, but it will comply, especially with repeating and determined prying alternating between the top and the bottom of where the bracket goes through the spline. (Well, that and the contortions you have to go through to get your body in position to do the unbolting and prying). But I'm 57 and lived to tell about it, and it was well worth it. The clutch engages GREAT now, just where it should.
Start soaking the damn thing with your favorite penetrating oil as soon as possible, and good luck with it. Let us know how it worked out.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 132
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It went pretty well. I ended up using some vice grips to get the bracket off. It took 2 minutes of wiggling with the vice grips after about 30 min of screwdriver and pry bars.I also bought the wrong bolt, too much shoulder. I also cut it too long and had to pull the bracket again. When I put the bracket back on after the trim I fed the bolt through the pushrod eye before tightening the bracket, way easier. It works well with no slop. Thanks, Joe
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
Joe, thanks for the update, glad it went relatively well. Good tip on the vice grips - if I ever do another one that's what I'll use. You also made me realize there's probably no great advantage in welding the bolt onto the bracket. Your way makes it that much easier to replace if it ever wears.
Did it make much of a difference in where your clutch starts to engage? It was night and day on mine.
Did it make much of a difference in where your clutch starts to engage? It was night and day on mine.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 867
Likes: 3
From: North Bend
THANK YOU John D in CT!!
This is absolutely the most efficient, and easiest fix for the sloppy clutch linkage I have seen!
This needs to be a sticky!
I did this fix in about 2.5 hours, much of that was just getting the bracket off and welding/cutting the bolt. Oh, and I had to run to the hardware store because I didn't actually have a 1/2inch drill bit, and my truck was already incapacitated so I couldn't walk, haha.
A tip for getting off the bracket-- PB blaster or Liquid Wrench. I have both and only after I used PB out of habit did I remember how much it stinks, LW doesn't have the same level of smell.
I've had a disintegrating pedal linkage for a while and though I have seen many ideas, this one is at least a tie with the best idea, yet only cost me $0.65 for the bolt and nut at NAPA!
And since this site is so hard to search properly(the search function blows), this should be a sticky!!!
Thanks again SO much! The pedal feel and sweep is like a whole new truck.
-Joshua
This needs to be a sticky!
I did this fix in about 2.5 hours, much of that was just getting the bracket off and welding/cutting the bolt. Oh, and I had to run to the hardware store because I didn't actually have a 1/2inch drill bit, and my truck was already incapacitated so I couldn't walk, haha.
A tip for getting off the bracket-- PB blaster or Liquid Wrench. I have both and only after I used PB out of habit did I remember how much it stinks, LW doesn't have the same level of smell.
I've had a disintegrating pedal linkage for a while and though I have seen many ideas, this one is at least a tie with the best idea, yet only cost me $0.65 for the bolt and nut at NAPA!
And since this site is so hard to search properly(the search function blows), this should be a sticky!!!
Thanks again SO much! The pedal feel and sweep is like a whole new truck.
-Joshua
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
Joshua, I'm very happy to hear that you liked my little clutch mod. I sure do enjoy modifying things to make them better.
The original design is really flimsy, and I think that any truck over 100K miles is going to show a lot of wear at this linkage. Good thing the clevis eye is exactly 1/2" - makes things nice and easy.
Thanks for the kind words, and enjoy your clutch. It sure is nice not having it grab about an inch from the floor.
Best regards, John D.
The original design is really flimsy, and I think that any truck over 100K miles is going to show a lot of wear at this linkage. Good thing the clevis eye is exactly 1/2" - makes things nice and easy.
Thanks for the kind words, and enjoy your clutch. It sure is nice not having it grab about an inch from the floor.
Best regards, John D.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Watertown, TN Wilson CO.
I got a quick question right quick, about a week or so ago my clutch on my truck started slipping, im leaning twoards a worn out clutch, but im not sure, could the hydraulics in the clutch not be engaging and disengaging all the way? or do you think the clutch is just going out?
thanks in advance.
KK
thanks in advance.
KK
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
Fordman/KK -
I'm not the biggest expert on Ford hydraulic clutches, but I do have a decent undersatnding of the principles involved. I can see how a malfunctioning hydraulic system could keep a clutch from disengaging, but that by itself obviously wouldn't cause slipping. With a purely mechanical clutch linkage like on my International Loadstar 1700 it's necessary to adjust the linkage periodically as the clutch disc wears to reintroduce frre play between the release bearing and pressure plate to prevent slipping, but the Ford hydraulic clutch is supposed to be self-adjusting (like hydraulic lifters), so I don't think that's the problem.
Long story short, I think your clutch disc is probably shot.
How long since the last known clutch replacement, if any?
I'm not the biggest expert on Ford hydraulic clutches, but I do have a decent undersatnding of the principles involved. I can see how a malfunctioning hydraulic system could keep a clutch from disengaging, but that by itself obviously wouldn't cause slipping. With a purely mechanical clutch linkage like on my International Loadstar 1700 it's necessary to adjust the linkage periodically as the clutch disc wears to reintroduce frre play between the release bearing and pressure plate to prevent slipping, but the Ford hydraulic clutch is supposed to be self-adjusting (like hydraulic lifters), so I don't think that's the problem.
Long story short, I think your clutch disc is probably shot.
How long since the last known clutch replacement, if any?
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Watertown, TN Wilson CO.
They said they put one in before 164,000 miles and it now has 191,000 miles. im thinking its about time i put a new clutch in, I was talking with someone on another forum about trading this M5OD for a ZF5 but he hasnt replied yet... if he doesnt reply do you know of anyone who might have a clutch kit laying around for my F150?
thanks
thanks