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I have a 2002 f 150 4x2 with the 5.4 triton engine, I wanted to change my rear end ratio adn calculated mine at 3.25. So i went under the truck ( ive always asumed it was a 9.75) and for my surprise it has a Dana rear end, dont know if its a 44 a 50 or 60, dont know how to tell them apart. Besides it has no tag, the corner where it was suppesed to be marked 44 50 or 60 has a wierd number, anyone with a dana rear end in their truck? How can tell if its a 44, 50 or 60?
Ford 8.8 or 9.75 are the only axles listed for your year F150. AFAIK the only Dana axles in '02 were Dana 80's in dually F350's. Also, there's not a 3.25 ratio listed-it should be 3.08, 3.31,(probably what you have) 3.55, or 3.73.
Exactly wierd, Ill post a picture, it has the dana 44 identical cover to My wrangler and has the words DANA inside the double quadrilateral figure. It has the numbers below 46590 0 then below 288, then below REV -07, N - 17 and a 98. Oh and it has the tag that indicates it has a limmited slip (i did notice that on corners).
I also know the tipical ratio is 3.55 but im turning 70mph@2000 in od which is 0.70 with 28" tires giving me a final ratio of 3.25 aprox. I know for sure that the truck came with that differential. So it figures....
The id links were no good, i only have the locker tag, what i really would like to know if i have a dana 44 or 60, maybe the 60 since the 44 is to weak for a 5.4?
I think its a 44 from what ive read, I still dont know teh ratio and havent seen another f 150 with a dana 44 in the back. below the dana stamp there is a 288 1 asuming that could be the ratio, im gonna jack up a tire to be sure. Im wanting to go to 4.11s, so as i read i need a new carrier or thick gears am i right? Also i need to know which 44 i have to get compatible gears right?
This one has got me super curious, cause it's not a typical d44, best I can come up with and it certainly looks right, nevermind how it got in your truck it certainly looks like the aluminum D44 this has a differently shaped housing and cover becasue the housing it'self is aluminum, so I guess put a magnent to yours and see what happens. Is your truck an odd special model ex. FX4, Harley, or something?
Here's a pic of the Aluminum D44 in a Jeep
And one comparing the covers of the the iron D44(left) and Aluminum D44A(right)
Nope a regular lariat 4x2 model, you are getting exactly to my conclusion, i also thought mine had an aluminium d44 but the cover is definitivley not aluminium, im gonna do the magnet test and report back
Nope a regular lariat 4x2 model, you are getting exactly to my conclusion, i also thought mine had an aluminium d44 but the cover is definitivley not aluminium, im gonna do the magnet test and report back
It would be the cast housing itself not the cover that's aluminum, I'm sure you'd relize this, but just making sure.
Ohh and if you do have this axle I hear terrible things, I'd suggest just replacing it with a 9.75 instead of swapping the gears.
Ok just checked, its not the aluminium one, the magnet worked, i still scraped off some paint to invesitgate furtheer and it steel alright.
were steel 44s used on jeeps around teh same year?
I read aluminium ones sucked i guess im lucky so far...
Hmmmm thought we had an answer there, my best guess then would be that for some reason Dana cast an iron version using the thicker D44A mould in some attempt to make it stronger. This isn't unheard of, why some rear end like that is in your truck is beyond me. But the shape is unique and can't be ignored. You apparently have a Jeep there with that axle, compare the 2 I guess just to make sure.
On your original desire to change ratios I still think given how odd it is you might be better in the long run just putting in a 9.75
I guess youre right, so i have to change everything including brakes?
Impossible for me or I would think just about anyone to say, your rear axle is just too unusual. Amoung the years many Ford brake parts are interchangable between even different axles, I would think it likely that just the backing plates are unique to your axle, and everything else would swap. But this is just a guess based on other Fords and that no brake guy in the past has had to figure this out, at least that you know of.
Your braking new trail though, and would be no matter which way you go. I think worse case you need all the brake parts and the last u-joint. This is unlikely, if you get an axle with brakes then all you might need is new wear parts if the ones on the donor axle are worn out and your don't fit.
youve been very helpfull so far, as your pointing out has made me read ALOT haha
Ok check it out, i took pictures proving the whole thing is steal, I also took pictures of my 2008 rubicons d44 which looks smaller, which made me think again is the 44 on these rubicons reallya 44? or could i have a d60? check them out:
I contacted a guy who used to be a fords dealer in canada ( my truck is canadian) and he told me ford trucks in canada had different options in rear ends than those assembled in the us, dont know how accurate this is.
Another thing if the weak thing about the d44a besides the c clips is the housing why go to the expense of changing the whole thing if mine is steal?, i think im now more focused on knowing exactly what pieces fit on my rear end.
Im gonna jack one wheel to see exactly what my ratio is, also Lets for an instance say this is a regular iron d44, if im only interested in changing ratios and the thing is working fine ( i know the whole thick and carrier brake ratios) what else should i replace in terms of bearings or shims etc?
youve been very helpfull so far, as your pointing out has made me read ALOT haha
Ok check it out, i took pictures proving the whole thing is steal, I also took pictures of my 2008 rubicons d44 which looks smaller, which made me think again is the 44 on these rubicons reallya 44? or could i have a d60? check them out:
I contacted a guy who used to be a fords dealer in canada ( my truck is canadian) and he told me ford trucks in canada had different options in rear ends than those assembled in the us, dont know how accurate this is.
Another thing if the weak thing about the d44a besides the c clips is the housing why go to the expense of changing the whole thing if mine is steal?, i think im now more focused on knowing exactly what pieces fit on my rear end.
Im gonna jack one wheel to see exactly what my ratio is, also Lets for an instance say this is a regular iron d44, if im only interested in changing ratios and the thing is working fine ( i know the whole thick and carrier brake ratios) what else should i replace in terms of bearings or shims etc?
Thanx
The axle in your rubicon is a standard iron D44, the aluminum one was cast larger, but yours isn't aluminum, bizzare, the shape is right, anyway.
I don't know enough about it to tell you anymore, just be guessing about your axle. Sandard D44's like the one in your rubicon don't have C-clips(a very good thing) and IIRC the carrier break ratio is 3.73. But for the axle in your truck I have no idea. Yes if it's built like other 44's you will need bearings, a shim kit, crush sleave etc. these things often all come in a kit. It also takes some special tools(incuding a press) and expertise, I don't know what you got or what your skill level is, if you should try. Another reason why it might be better to just get a whole axle. It's very likely you can get a 9.75 that is a ratio you like for as much $ as you'd spend on gears and parts, and for someone without the expertese(often even with) and tools it's much easier to swap an entire axle assembly then just the gears.
Except for the C-clips the 9.75 is a better/stronger axle then the D44 and it sounds like yours might have C-clips anyway.
your right if its harder to set it up and the cost is around the same I will be looking for a 9.75, do you know the gross weigh of a typical 9.75 without oil?
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