130 amp alternator ??
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
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From: Medford Oregon
130 amp alternator ??
Is that the stock one for our trucks? Past week or so I've noticed the voltage dropping at idle 13.6 volts compared to 14.2 volts it has always been. Give it a few 100 RPM above idle and voltage goes back up. Yesterday I pulled the belt and checked all pulleys and idlers. Everything spins good except tension idler so I replaced that.
One thing I noticed is some brown - reddish fine dust on the front face of the alternator like brush or bearing dust. It spins OK so don't think it is bearings and the brushes are in the rear of the alternator. This morning I'm going to pull the alternator and check the brushes, cheap fix if they are worn down. If not guess I'll just replace the entire alternator.
One thing I noticed is some brown - reddish fine dust on the front face of the alternator like brush or bearing dust. It spins OK so don't think it is bearings and the brushes are in the rear of the alternator. This morning I'm going to pull the alternator and check the brushes, cheap fix if they are worn down. If not guess I'll just replace the entire alternator.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
From: Lawson, Missouri
I never had our alternator apart (yet) sounds like carbon Brush dust too me...I've rebuilt plenty of other DC motors with carbon brushes and as long as the comm. isn't worn down to much, - causing a valley - replacing brushes should give it some more life.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
Update
Well, ended up replacing the alternator and that took care of the issue. I did pull the regulator and the brushes looked good but the commutator rings were in pretty bad shape. After the glow plugs cycle the voltage pops up really fast like I'm use to seeing. Actually it's going to 14.5 now but I'm sure the batteries are a bit low.
For those that have not done it pulling the regulator and inspecting in there is real easy. Just remove the alternator (one of the easier jobs to do anything on this truck) and on the back side there are 4 T20 screws. Just remove those and wiggle it out. Parts store indicated they also sell the just the regulator with the brush assembly, a lot cheaper than the entire alternator, but decided with the commutator damage just go with another one. It is probably the original alternator anyway.
Not bad, Motorcraft 130A alternator with pulley for $139.95 with lifetime warranty. Below is a picture of the hole where the regulator sits and you can see the commutator rings.
For those that have not done it pulling the regulator and inspecting in there is real easy. Just remove the alternator (one of the easier jobs to do anything on this truck) and on the back side there are 4 T20 screws. Just remove those and wiggle it out. Parts store indicated they also sell the just the regulator with the brush assembly, a lot cheaper than the entire alternator, but decided with the commutator damage just go with another one. It is probably the original alternator anyway.
Not bad, Motorcraft 130A alternator with pulley for $139.95 with lifetime warranty. Below is a picture of the hole where the regulator sits and you can see the commutator rings.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 105
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From: Grand Rapids
Hey there i charge my batteries a few times a week ( kuz there pretty much no good). could this cause my alternator to weaken. kuz my trucks having issues starting and staying running. if i charge my batteries for a whole day i can get it to start and run fer a few mins till it dies
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TourqueRise
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
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Jan 16, 2010 08:37 PM
130, 1995, 2000, alternator, amp, brushes, changing, diesel, f150, f250, ford, powerstroke, replacement, replacing, truck
