To start, I know this is going to be a long post put please bear with me i NEED to get this fixed.

Purchased 2001 F350 SD 4x4 ZF 6 spd last year april/may 2010. I Have NO turbo boost untill I get to 2,000 rpms, and that is only when I am really on it and in 3rd or higher gear. Max boost I am getting is 5-7 psi at around 2,800 rpms (again that is 3/4-full floored and in 3rd gear or higher) and at 2,100 is when you really feel the truck go.
I can not find any intake leaks, and a very very small leak at the driver's exhaust manifold (thinking about putting in gaskets).

Previous owner installed a BANKS package (not exactly sure wich one) So far these are the mods I have found on it.
1) Banks big head wastgate
2) Banks intake pipes? painted blue, dont look stock
3) banks muffler (possibly a Banks CAT to. (yes it was originally a cal. truck.
4) Ground wire installed on MAP sensor green/black wire I recently disconected.
5) Banks exhoust temp guage (mounted POST turbo)
6) Banks boost guage (hooked up to map sensor line)

I have installed an over sized air filter from riff raff RDP 6637 w/ sock.
2) a WW (and while turbo was off found almost no side play or end play so did not rebuild turbo).
3) disconnected and pluged red air line at wg

I do get a little bit of white smoke sometimes, and a VERY little bit of black smoke (again, only happens when beating on it, and still VERY little).

Check engine light keeps coming on about 1-2 days after I clear it.
Codes are "P1247 Turbo boost pressure low", and "P1248 turbo boost pressure not detected".

I am a mechanic just not a diesel tech. I have a Snap-on Verdict and ran all the self tests I could find. At first the only things that would come up would be in the cylinder balance test, I would get "P0269 Cylinder 3 contribution/balance fault", and the same thing for cylinder 8 code P0284.

Truck runs fine otherwise, But today I decided to look at it again, and this time on top of the other codes I kept getting, I now have a "P0605 Internal control module ROM error" every time I run the KOEO self test.

I did pull the pcm, last summer to see if P.O. installed a chip, but what I found was a scrap yard pcm (I think) it was untouched, but had 2001 f350 written on it in crayon/tire chaulk as is the boneyard fasion (and one of the bolts for the bracket was replaced).

Here are my questions (Finnally)
1) could this all be linked to a bad pcm?
2) If it is a bad pcm should I just have it reflashed, or replace it?
3) IF it is not the pcm then what should I do about the cyl 3 and 8 balance issue?
4) what is the point of the ground wire on the map sensor? I know it is to fool the pcm but how? and did they even ground the right wire, because according to michell at work, the lt green/ black is the reference signal to the map, and several other sensores, (but I do not get any other sensor codes)?

I really Really REALLY want to learn these engines, so please help me. I have gone to 2 dealerships, and one said that the pedistal is bad because it is not restricting the exhaust enough to make boost (did not make much sense) the other one said to replace the map sensor, because he admitted he could not find anything else wrong. But he was also younger and admitted he was unfamiliar with the 7.3

Again thank you in advance for your help, I look forward to learning.

 

Check for leaks in your boots, sounds like a leak somewhere. Possibly the ebpv rod came off the pin under the turbo. Just throwing out ideas. Someone should be along to help out more.

 

is the wastegate open??

 

1) Probably not. P0605 is caused by the banks programming
2) N/A
3) You probably have had the CMP recall done and you have a gray colored CPS installed in the motor from Ford. One of the side effects of the "new and improved" CPS is contribution faults on cylinders 3 & 8. Ignore this.
4) Are you sure the wire to the MAP wasn't related to the boost gauge? I don't know if your gauge is strictly vacuum or also electric, but you can monitor boost pressure with a scanner by reading MAP pressure.

I'd suggest you check your up pipes for leaks. Up pipes are the exhaust pipes coming off the exhaust manifold going up into a Y collector behind the turbo. Where the pipes go into the Y collector, they tend to leak. Soot stains are a sing of a leak.

Another idea is to build you a boost leak detector. You can go low tech and just get a 3" PVC cap at the hardware store. Drill and tap a fitting into it that you can pressurize with an air compressor, then remove your filter and just clamp the fitting into your air intake tube. Set your regulator to around 20 or 25 psi and air it up.

 

Thanks for responding so soon.
Thanks for the suggestions.

F350-6, I can not find any sign of Banks "programing" (unless they had it flashed), and code p0605 was not showing up in the self tests I did about 3-4 months ago. IF it turned out they had it flashed with banks programming then maybe it has developed a program error and needs to be reflashed, kind of like when a PC crashes and needs to be restored, is that possible on cars, I have never seen it, but I fix mostly stock cars, not customized.

I am pretty sure that the ground wire has nothing to do with the guage, they have one of those cheap clamp on splice connectors (those little red ones you get with the "DUI antitheft systems etc.), and then a spade connector that goes straight to a ground on the firewall. I disconnected the spade connector.

I was reading the LD on my scanner and it was showing MAP 12-14psi.
At Idle it would sit at 12psi, and then the max I would see is 14psi It would not really change AT ALL. What should it read? I figured this is where the pcm was getting its P1247 and P1248 codes?

I did make a tester, and I could hear constant hissing from the back of the engine, sounded like it was echoing throgh the up pipes? So I disconnected the intake pipe leading from the intercooler to the Y-pipe, pluged that pipe with a hand torch tank wraped in duct tape and it held atleast 23 psi. (meaning compressor housing, intake pipes, and intercooler are all sealed.
when doing a leak test, is any amount of leakage normal?

 

Almost forgot to mention, The ONLY exhaust leak is a very minor one at the driver's manifold, everywhere else is spotless does not even leak a drop of oil (unless you count the oil at the pcv)

 

With tunes I see high 20s-30s, I'd be sure it holds higher pressure than that.

 

You're scanner is seeing uncorrected data from the MAP which means you're reading atmospheric pressure of around 15 psi. (It's not uncommon to see -1 or so at idle from the map on boost pressure). 5 pounds of boost will show up as around 20 psi on your map reading unless your atmospheric pressure is different than 15.

Your boost leak detector shouldn't make any sound in the up pipes unless there's a valve open letting the air through. Maybe try rolling the crankshaft with a breaker bar a little to see if that helps you check for any boost leaks.

For your condition though, I would really be checking the up pipes for soot stains as a loose boot or small boost leak on the intake side won't cause the performance issues you're having. Perhaps it's even a good idea to disconnect the down pipe (tailpipe) from the turbo and look at the exhaust wheel in the turbo to make sure it still looks good.

 

What should I be looking for when inspecting the exhaust wheel? When I put on the WW I did not see anything abnormal.

I am 99% sure the up pipes are not leaking. Just had it in my shop for an oil change and could not see any sign of a leak except a very little bit of soot at the driver's manifold. To verify the source of the leak I had one of our tire busters get in and rev up the rpm's as I felt around for air leaking, and there was a little bit between the manifold and the head ( I could only feal it at 1600 rpms or higher). Did not see a gasket in there so it must be a machined surface.
Do they make gaskets for these engines, or do I have to get the manifold redone?

 

I want to thank you again for the help. I am an ase certified mechanic, and can fix just about anything on a gas engine, but until now I have only done fluid and filter changes on the diesels (and the ww on my truck and a fuel filter housing on a cheby), and would like to be able to do more.

 

You can get gaskets to put on the exhaust manifold if you have to remove it. Leaks there are pretty rare unless you've got some broken bolts or something. Are you sure it's not air movement from the fan you're feeling? If you do have a leak in the exhaust manifold, that could be your issue. Is it near the back of the motor?

As for the exhaust wheel, here's a couple of links that show some FOD (foreign object damage), but you get the idea of what it's supposed to look like by the pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-shredded.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...lay-video.html

 

Mr. Finch, this sounds very familiar to what I experienced back in May. 5-7 PSI was all I could build. When I pulled the turbo off, the exhaust wheel was shot! the ends of the vanes on the wheel were burnt off about a 1/4 inch! very ragged edges. you might have to pull it off to check it.

Barney

 

Thanks for the info, I will double check the exhaust wheel this weak. should not be too hard to remove the housing and leave the turbo on the truck.

As for the exhoust leak I believe it is cyl #8 (maybe #4) that has the leak, all the way to the back of the engine on driver's side, there is a little bit of soot, and you can feel the "puff, puff, puff" of the exhaust stroke when you rev it, I think it is getting worse, because every morning I start the truck and let it warm up, then when I go back out to it to leave and the ebpv is closed and the high idle has kicked in I can hear a slight exhaust leak. IF that is what is causing this, then that would be nice, the bolts are still clean and it looks easy to get to from underneath and through the wheal well.

Any other suggestions to check, I was told that the ebp sensor tube has a tendancy to rust and leak, the truck is rust free so I think it is ok, but where does it usually leak, If I know where to check, I maybe able to get my scope in there to take a look.

 

I also want to add, that the truck does have over 210,000 miles (but being a FORD DIESEL I am not worried) but anything else I should look and prepare for?

I don't plan on doing major work to it right now, it is my only vehicle until the bike comes out of hibernation.
F350-6 you are right about the cps, it is the grey one, I ordered one from riffraff in september and have not recieved it yet, I keep forgetting to contact them to find out what happend, I recieved everythig else except the IH cps.

 

Don't worry about a scope for the tube. Just pull it and clean it (don't forget to clean the fitting on the manifold too). Most of us do it like this Welcome to guzzle's Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Cleaning Maintenance Web Page Often times they are clogged up.