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Have a 2002 F350, 7.3L with 175,000 miles. We hit a cold snap back in December (10 -20 degrees) and the truck would not start. Lucky for me it was in my garage so I plugged it in and it fired up after the block heater did it work.
Once warmed up, it will start every time. If I leave it outside at work for the day I have to cycle through about 8 - 10 times before it will run.
So I researched the forum and here is what I have done:
1. Changed the glow plug replay - same starting issue
2. Checked the glow plug resistance on pass. side, they were all bad (readings from 40 to infinity)
3. Replaced glow plugs with Beru ZD11 last night - same starting issue
I was into the fuel bowl a week ago since the drain valve o-rings were leaking. Did not think to check the fuel heater.
How long do you let the GPs heat up the combustion chambers before you try to start? I generally wait 30 to 40 seconds when the temps are below 35° degrees. Remember the GPR stays operated after the WTS lamp goes out.
It takes about 15 seconds for the whole heating element on the GP to get to this point.
A fuel heater problem will not cause hard starts unless it is blowing the fuse which will cause no starts.
After sitting at work for the day, I'll cycle the GP light on the dash twice before I try to start, probably 30 to 40 seconds. The engine will usually hit briefly then just crank over.
Then its a matter of cycling the GP's 6 to 8 times and it will finally start. Last winter the truck would fire after one cycle of the GP's so something has changed since then.
I plan to check all the fuses this evening and see if any are blown.
On a side note. I changed the GP's about 45K ago (before I was on the forum) and got Autolites. Have to admit I was nervous last night when I swapped in the new ones but no broken tips! I think I dodged a bullet.
After sitting at work for the day, I'll cycle the GP light on the dash twice before I try to start, probably 30 to 40 seconds. The engine will usually hit briefly then just crank over.
If you are talking about the WTS light it only stays on about 10 seconds and has nothing to do with whether or not the GPR is operated. It is just a timer. Don't cycle the key after WTS light goes out, if it's cold the GPR is still operated. Just leave the key on for 30 to 40 seconds. Cycling the key is just wear and tear on the GPR.
Have you actually measured the voltage across the GPR to be sure it is operating?
Wanted to follow up and thank you all for your help. As I mentioned I changed out the GPR last month when this problem started. Since the problem continued, I started checking other potential issues. The GP did test bad when I checked resistance so those were swapped.
Long story short, I checked the GPR Friday night and it tested bad. When I went to remove it, one of small terminal posts pushed into the housing when I put my socket onto it. Bad housing or I might have over torqued the nut when I installed it.
Truck starts like a champ now sitting overnight without being plugged in.
I know what you are/have gone through. I'm still having the same problems. Ready to blow the truck up. Oil changed to T6, new batteries, glow plugs..and relay thanks to PaysonPSD..on loan. Talking to Clay, its not my Lpop...truck continues to run. I'm waiting longer to start now too. AHHHH!!
Long story short, I checked the GPR Friday night and it tested bad. When I went to remove it, one of small terminal posts pushed into the housing when I put my socket onto it. Bad housing or I might have over torqued the nut when I installed it.
Truck starts like a champ now sitting overnight without being plugged in.
Glad that all you needed was a new GPR.
Whenever possible I bench test any new electricl parts before I install them. As we all know "Bad out of the box" is not uncommon.