Fake Oil Pressure Gage
#1
Fake Oil Pressure Gage
I ordered my 2010 SD F-250 from the factory, old school: XLT Regular Cab, 6spd stick. Options are few: 4.10, Limited Slip, HD 5th wheel package with rear sway bar, roof lights, tailgate step. I think I may have a very very rare truck, as I have never seen another XLT trim level regular cab with the manual trans. I love the truck except:
It has a fake oil pressure gage. It always goes to 2/3 scale...its just an on off switch. Is there an easy way to fix this? I am sure some smart person on here has the part number for a sender to properly send to the gage what oil is REALLY doing. I dont fully trust this new 5W-20 water-weight oil, so am thinking I would like to watch oil pressure over the life of the truck. I kept my last truck 22 years, will probably keep this one just as long....THanks! Jim
It has a fake oil pressure gage. It always goes to 2/3 scale...its just an on off switch. Is there an easy way to fix this? I am sure some smart person on here has the part number for a sender to properly send to the gage what oil is REALLY doing. I dont fully trust this new 5W-20 water-weight oil, so am thinking I would like to watch oil pressure over the life of the truck. I kept my last truck 22 years, will probably keep this one just as long....THanks! Jim
#2
The only way I know of to get a real op gauge is to get one you like, and an A Pillar gauge pod.
As far as the oil is concerned, Make sure you only run 5w20 in that new truck, Things like Cam Phasers and Timing chain tensioners do not like thicker oil. New engine designs incorporate much tighter tolerances that make an oil with a smaller molecule size needed. ALWAYS use a Motorcraft filter, accept no substitute. They have a much better anti-drainback valve than most other brands. Things are different than they were 22 years ago. In 1989 (year of your last truck?), Ford was still using regular pushrod engines in trucks that required 10w30. Now they are all OHC Modular motors that are putting out more horses that the old small blocks ever did from the factory. Plus, Motor oil had come along way in 22 years.
As far as the oil is concerned, Make sure you only run 5w20 in that new truck, Things like Cam Phasers and Timing chain tensioners do not like thicker oil. New engine designs incorporate much tighter tolerances that make an oil with a smaller molecule size needed. ALWAYS use a Motorcraft filter, accept no substitute. They have a much better anti-drainback valve than most other brands. Things are different than they were 22 years ago. In 1989 (year of your last truck?), Ford was still using regular pushrod engines in trucks that required 10w30. Now they are all OHC Modular motors that are putting out more horses that the old small blocks ever did from the factory. Plus, Motor oil had come along way in 22 years.
#3
#5
As far as the oil is concerned, Make sure you only run 5w20 in that new truck, Things like Cam Phasers and Timing chain tensioners do not like thicker oil. New engine designs incorporate much tighter tolerances that make an oil with a smaller molecule size needed. ALWAYS use a Motorcraft filter, accept no substitute. They have a much better anti-drainback valve than most other brands. Things are different than they were 22 years ago. In 1989 (year of your last truck?), Ford was still using regular pushrod engines in trucks that required 10w30. Now they are all OHC Modular motors that are putting out more horses that the old small blocks ever did from the factory. Plus, Motor oil had come along way in 22 years.
Tighter tolerances and modern synthetic oils are today and the old 2,3,4 thousand mile changes are a thing of the past.
Read the owners manual, the engine engineers know what's best.
#6
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