About valve adjustment

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  #16  
Old 01-24-2011, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
The guy I spoke with this weekend that is doing the headwork on my engine proposed an interesting idea for valve adjustment. He said most have told him he's crazy, but he's been doing it for 20 years and it works perfectly every time. Curious what you all think.

Bring piston #1 to TDC. Adjust all 12 rocker arms JUST until there's no slop between the rocker arm/pushrod/lifter.
Rotate 120° to bring cylinder #5 to TDC, repeat with all 12 rocker arms.

Continue until you've done this to all 6 cylinders.

Done.

No torquing, no quarter turns, etc.

He swore up and down by it. Was curious what you all think about it.
Me, I don't want guess work. I want to adjust to what the book says, and know that that is correct. Why adjust each valve 6 times? Zero lash is zero lash, right? It just seems like his way is 6X the work.


 
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:05 AM
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Personally, I'd see it as a lot more guess to "finger tight and then a quarter turn". It may take a little more time, but I would think it would be more accurate, which I'm all for.
 
  #18  
Old 01-25-2011, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
Personally, I'd see it as a lot more guess to "finger tight and then a quarter turn". It may take a little more time, but I would think it would be more accurate, which I'm all for.
Well, how do you think he determines whether or not there is no slop? He doesn't have a magical feeler gauge. He puts his fingers down there and rolls the p.rod like everyone else. That is how you feel the resistance, and know the slop is eliminated. What I find interesting is that he would waste his time adjusting 72 valves when they absolutely don't matter, instead of simply 12. An exercise in futility redefined!
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:28 PM
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Hah, very true. When you put it that way, it certainly does.

Okay, in that case, I'm going to have to have him explain it to me again. I spoke with the guy for an hour and a half, and I must've forgotten something. It sounded a lot simpler the way he worded to me.
I'm thinking I should have brought a tape recorder with me with as much details as I'm getting wrong.
 
  #20  
Old 01-25-2011, 12:44 PM
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Oh heck, AB--

Maybe the guy has something. If it works for him, then good enough. Sometimes I have to laugh at myself: that childish need to be RIGHT is so strong. My reasoning is this: if you adjust the valves when they are both closed, tdc on the compression stroke, then, in the entire 360 degree rotation, how/where do they need to be adjusted again?


A great trick to remember the firing order: 15 is too young; 36 is too old; 24 is just right.
 
  #21  
Old 01-25-2011, 01:45 PM
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F-250 restorer,

That all depends on one's age
 
  #22  
Old 01-25-2011, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 1986F150six
F-250 restorer,

That all depends on one's age
LOL. Good point.
 
  #23  
Old 01-25-2011, 06:17 PM
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The ticking at first start up seems to be getting worse. So I thought I would take my v.cover off and check my rocker poly locks.

While I'm in there, I think I will try the 'one full turn' after zero lash, as it says in the book. Maybe I do need them a bit tighter. Hopefully that will help. I'm thinking that when cold, the lifter and p.rod have contracted? But even with only 1/4 turn after zero, that would be a lot of contraction.
 
  #24  
Old 04-29-2011, 08:14 PM
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Do you just leave cyclinder #1 at TDC and adjust all valves or do you set the corresponding cyclinder at TDC before adjusting valve clearances?
 
  #25  
Old 04-30-2011, 07:53 PM
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I learned the quickest, easiest v. adjustment method from a buddy who is a pro. engine builder. No TDC. Just remove the plugs and hook up a remote start switch. Pull off the v.cover. Pick any exhaust valve. You can tell which is which by looking at the intake and exhaust manifold.

Take any exhaust valve, and click engine over until the exhaust moves down (open) 1/4 of its travel, more or less. Now take intake of the same cylinder and adjust it, finding zero lash and tightening 1/2 turn further. Now watch that intake, and click engine over until that intake valve travels down (open), and back up 3/4 of the way. Adjust the exhaust of the same cylinder. Repeat five times to the other cylinders.

I've used this method twice now, and will never go back!!
 
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