I just had a brake job done at a ford dealer and they turned all four rotors and replaced the pads. They did charge me $500.00 though, if I had known it would be that much I would have just bought all new rotors and done it myself.

 

For that much, you are nearly at the point where you could have gotten 4 reman calipers, a complete brake system flush (including hydroboost fluid), new rotors, pads, and possibly a few wheel bearings and seals thrown in for free.

 

Every brake job has to be assessed and the only way to do it correctly is tear everything down and inspect the parts before going to get brakes.

I will pull a vehicle in for a brake job an tear down the brakes that I am supposed to do, front, rear, or both. See what parts need replacing either from a sticky, frozen, torn dust boot, broken, etc. calipers/wheel cylinders. Rotors are inspected for runout with a dial indicator after a visual inspection. The rotors will get turned if within spec and the rust, groves, runout can be taken out without going under spec (which most china rotors are right at spec when new). If they are beyond turnable they are replaced. Inspect caliper pins make sure bleeders break free, make sure all springs, clips, etc are all intact and in good condition. Once I know what I all need to have done and buy I go to the hops and stores required. I buy brake fluid in the gallons because of all the brake work I do. A gallon will last me about 4 months. Get the right caliper pin grease (do not use anti seize).

Install all parts and break all bleeders loose with buckets at each corner to catch fluid. Wait till master cylinder reservoir is near empty and fill with fresh fluid, wait till it is near empty again and fill once more. Run around and check the fluid at all 4 corners.If any are leaking clean fluid shut the bleeder and check reservoir again. Watch for the next caliper/wheel cylinder to leak clean fluid and shut the bleeder, continue until all 4 bled clean fluid. After all done spray down the brakes with brake cleaner. Rotors, calipers, pads, the whole deal.

Test brakes to see if they pump up, take vehicle out for drive (about 2-4 miles) come back and inspect all rotors/drums for heat/smoke. If no smoke at any wheel and all rotors and or drums are just warm and brakes felt normal the job should be done and good to go.

If yo find a hot rotor use a pry bar to push the pistons back into the caliper a bit and test brakes again to see if the pistons frees up. If rotor is still hot the caliper may need to e replaced.

If you get a shake upon braking check lug nuts for torque. If torqued correctly and wheel is seated flat on the rotor check rotor for runout. New rotors can be warped or flawed. If it has runout take it back and replace it.

If the brakes are mushy have a friend pump up and hold the brake peddle while you bleed all 4 corners under pressure to get air bubbles out.

 

New Rotors are $100 each thats $400 from the get go

so your left with $ 100 left for pads calipers and bearings,hydroobost fluid ,, and shop supplies ? good luck

the shop he used probably turned the rotors on the truck and that is a great way to do it to prevent issues

the front uses a unit bearing assuming (4x4) they are non serviceable and the rear are in an oil bath so no need to service them and they don't get disturbed during a brake job anyways

 

Geeze, I buy off brand rotors for 1/2 of that or so...

But I do not have a HD application.

OEM Ford ones are around $100 for me.

 

If you get your offbrand rotors for 1/2 that price, their from China and only good for boat anchors.

 

Suppose I am in a lightly loaded 350 with a payload of 1,500 lbs or so, no towing, nothing.

Do I really need top of the line brake components?

 

I guess as long as they meet OEM spec your OK ? but I don't like the quality control of some no name company dumping any metal in town to cast stuff

I remember a run of radio active rebar because China thought it would be ok to melt down some x-ray machines to make them

http://www.aa1car.com/library/raybes...or_warning.pdf

 

One crude test is to weigh them against the part you are removing.

If the amount of metal is roughly equal, with the new one weighing a bit more, you are cool.

Ditto re measuring them for thickness, runout etc.

Note that my app is not typical of many on here who need the best brakes they can get.

I also am replacing my brakes way before the bitter end...

Sure, the components are chintzier than the best, (and this is from someone who normally recommend OEM ford parts and pay the premium)

But, new brakes, even the cheapest ones that meet spec, are better than old, nearly worn out ones WHEN I am not using the vehicle to max braking capacity --- like towing 13,000 lbs behind a fully loaded truck.

 

The cheap auto parts store rotors are just fine. I use them all the time and have good luck with them. Like I mentioned though allot of them are on the thin side of ford specs right off the bat probably just to save on materials.

 

Snow...

A good compare is between the new "cheap" part vs. the old, twice cut down part that would have remained on the vehicle...

When you do those compares, the new part often looks real good compared to an OE that is been cut down once, and heavily rusted inside (where I am that is a big problem).

The other trick I use is to replace the pads with pretty abrasive ones (e.g. metal) that wear down the rotors fast.

Then I chuck the rotors and pads as a set... and put on new reman calipers at the same time... completely flush brake system.

 

yes, brakes are important! I always make sure everything brakes is in top notch condition on the vehicles I take care of.

 

Now if I am towing....

Nothing but the best... Factory or better spec rotors, e.g. cyro treated, slotted,

Top grade pads matched to the above (also to wear each other out at the same time).

Brand new calipers (not remans),

With silicon seals, not EPDM boots

Top grade slide lube (not antiseize)

Top grade brake fluid changed every 2 years...

And top grade tires to stick to road!

 

So what you are saying is that you swap the entire brake system from the cheap stuff to the high grade stuff when you decide to tow.

 

98,000 miles on an 8 year old truck and you want brakes done at the ford dealer service department. Probably the most expensive place you could take it, cause its your "baby" and want it right. Well "right" costs plenty at the dealership.
Off the top, list pricing on all parts thru the service department , including new oem ford rotors and pads, and the union labor rate of $100 atleast per hour would be standard, plus environmental fees, shop supplies charges, tax,etc. Obviously no warranty on common wear parts either.

Vibration issues could be any and or all of the following. Tires ,rims, steering parts , hub assemblys, u joints, bent axles , alignment issues, etc.
List on the rotors are $150 each, $100 on the pads. Theres $400 plus on parts, plus a say 2 hour minimum on labor, so it should be a $650 bill minimum prior to other issues concerning vibration for brakes alone. Then with 98000 on a sd, hubs should be in order along with ball joints, so I would say $2000 might cover the bill you are complaining about.