Dealership problems - Brakes issue
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,956
Likes: 6
From: Abilene, Texas
Texans.
I do so recommend and I stand by it.
And not just in salt land here, but everywhere.
I have seen too many issues to not spend $100 extra for a rotor (a lot less for lower grade ones), and $60 for a reman caliper.
Incremental cost doing it my way: extra $350 or so per axle for 350 truck grade rotors.
At those prices, it is not worth doing diagnostics.
I will however state, if you got a real well matched pair of pads and rotors, you can get them to just about wear out each other (pad wear out at same time as rotor thinness hits reject).
Have to match it with individual pad / rotor combos.. and if there is not abnormal pad wear from a binding caliper, it last the life of each other.
Then I never have to cut a rotor --- oh... there is no way to cut a rotor without losing a lot of metal --- read braking / heat absorption capacity.
So that is the way I am... some people buy APRs they don't need, I buy brake work I probably don't absolutely need...
Like bi-annual changes of brake fluid.. because I think 4% moisture is too much in my system.
I would sooner put $350 in brakes my way than to buy many other bling bling.
I do so recommend and I stand by it.
And not just in salt land here, but everywhere.
I have seen too many issues to not spend $100 extra for a rotor (a lot less for lower grade ones), and $60 for a reman caliper.
Incremental cost doing it my way: extra $350 or so per axle for 350 truck grade rotors.
At those prices, it is not worth doing diagnostics.
I will however state, if you got a real well matched pair of pads and rotors, you can get them to just about wear out each other (pad wear out at same time as rotor thinness hits reject).
Have to match it with individual pad / rotor combos.. and if there is not abnormal pad wear from a binding caliper, it last the life of each other.
Then I never have to cut a rotor --- oh... there is no way to cut a rotor without losing a lot of metal --- read braking / heat absorption capacity.
So that is the way I am... some people buy APRs they don't need, I buy brake work I probably don't absolutely need...
Like bi-annual changes of brake fluid.. because I think 4% moisture is too much in my system.
I would sooner put $350 in brakes my way than to buy many other bling bling.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Tex... where I am there is a huge problem with salt, moisture intake into the brake system.
There is no way to examine the inside of the piston / bores for corrosion.
I can evaluate corrosion of the pins, hangers, but what about the innards?
To evaluate mean to take it apart --- in the old days you cleaned it, put in a new piston seal, etc.
These kits are no longer sold --- so I just put on a quality (Ford OEM) reman.
I realize you may not need this in Texas --- but with 2% water per year in brake fluid... interior rust is a big problem.
In any case, what works for me... does not necessarily work for you.
I like my routine... and it is kind of like changing oil at 3,000 miles... unnecessary to me!
In your area, the problem will not be salt / and not necessarily water (depending on how humid your area is)... but heat for heavy use.
If we can have an ideal solution, I would rebuild my own (known good calipers) with silicon seals and gaskets --- which have a much higher tolerance to heat than EPDM rubber --- the standard.
There is no way to examine the inside of the piston / bores for corrosion.
I can evaluate corrosion of the pins, hangers, but what about the innards?
To evaluate mean to take it apart --- in the old days you cleaned it, put in a new piston seal, etc.
These kits are no longer sold --- so I just put on a quality (Ford OEM) reman.
I realize you may not need this in Texas --- but with 2% water per year in brake fluid... interior rust is a big problem.
In any case, what works for me... does not necessarily work for you.
I like my routine... and it is kind of like changing oil at 3,000 miles... unnecessary to me!
In your area, the problem will not be salt / and not necessarily water (depending on how humid your area is)... but heat for heavy use.
If we can have an ideal solution, I would rebuild my own (known good calipers) with silicon seals and gaskets --- which have a much higher tolerance to heat than EPDM rubber --- the standard.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 492
Likes: 2
Around here you would be hard pressed to find a place that still turns rotors...Most of the big auto parts stores have gotten out of it for liability reasons.. Most mechanics I know don't bother as rotors are now somewhat of a disposable item because of price...
I cant go back to the beginning of the thread but did you say it was 8 yrs and how many miles since a brake job... rotors do warp and warp a lot easier if they are turned more than they should have been ... Did the dealer mic them before and after the turn down..Could they have turned them down to much and when the mechanic took it for a ride to seat the pads did he over heat them and warp the rotor... Rotor usually warp after the cool down not the heat up...Unless of course the rotors are real thin .. I have seen them break apart when turned to far down and heated...
I like to get two pad changes out of my rotors.. But sometimes I have to change them every pad change..They pit , warp and rust.. Also if they get to rusty they tend not to dissipate the heat well and the brakes fade sooner...
Asked the dealer if they will give you the parts at cost or as commercial discount...
I cant go back to the beginning of the thread but did you say it was 8 yrs and how many miles since a brake job... rotors do warp and warp a lot easier if they are turned more than they should have been ... Did the dealer mic them before and after the turn down..Could they have turned them down to much and when the mechanic took it for a ride to seat the pads did he over heat them and warp the rotor... Rotor usually warp after the cool down not the heat up...Unless of course the rotors are real thin .. I have seen them break apart when turned to far down and heated...
I like to get two pad changes out of my rotors.. But sometimes I have to change them every pad change..They pit , warp and rust.. Also if they get to rusty they tend not to dissipate the heat well and the brakes fade sooner...
Asked the dealer if they will give you the parts at cost or as commercial discount...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
What Ford really said:
stock rotors are already so cut down (thin) that we no longer leave a margin for resurfacing.
Flexible hoses are inspected by me every time I am under the vehicle (2x a year)
Any hint of cracking.. and they go.
Likewise, so are exposed brake lines --- inspected for rust damage.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: wildwood, mo.
The truck is getting old, better replace it also!!!
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Me also. I was quite surprised at the difference in firmness and feel. I forget what the absorption rate of water into brake fluid is, but it's quite a bit. Besides powersteering fluid this is probably the most overlooked/neglected until it's too late and expensive.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
2 percent a year, up to 8% then it tapers off.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
WHO'S BARRY THE STUDEBAKER KID R.
I,M TRYING TO STROKE MY 352 WHERE CAN I FIND THIS BARRY R AND OR A CRANK FOR IT AND WHAT OTHER MODS WILL I NEED BESIDES CAM AND LIFTER I ALL READY HAVE OVER 1,2OO$ INVESTED AND DONT WANT TO SPEND MUCH MORE.
PLEASE HELP THIS IS MY FIRST BUILD AND I WANT TO GO BIG WITH IT W/NO OVER BORE SOMEONE ANYONE
I,M TRYING TO STROKE MY 352 WHERE CAN I FIND THIS BARRY R AND OR A CRANK FOR IT AND WHAT OTHER MODS WILL I NEED BESIDES CAM AND LIFTER I ALL READY HAVE OVER 1,2OO$ INVESTED AND DONT WANT TO SPEND MUCH MORE.
PLEASE HELP THIS IS MY FIRST BUILD AND I WANT TO GO BIG WITH IT W/NO OVER BORE SOMEONE ANYONE
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,453
Likes: 4
From: AZ
I pulled the return hose from the side of the hydro boost and put a long 3/8 hose from the fitting to a jug ,, it only flows whahn u push the brakes or turn the wheel side to side ( jack the front end off the ground)
then work between brakes and steering while filling up every so often ( you can leave her running while you do this it won't be a rush)
then work between brakes and steering while filling up every so often ( you can leave her running while you do this it won't be a rush)
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,453
Likes: 4
From: AZ