I actually felt a differance in the pedal when I had mine flushed

 

I agree with you too some points on this. I would never personaly do a brake job without turning/"cutting" the rotors. That being said most rotors on cars/trucks today come from the factoy already at the specs. So you can't turn them at that point. If I wasn't able to turn the rotor then yes I would replace it. NO WAY I would replace the calipers just because I was doing a brake job. If there were no uneven wear on the pads, and no pulling to one side during braking/driving. I agree that brakes are way more important than any "bling bling", but I don't beleave (and you of all people should understand this.) in throwing away money on unneeded parts.

 

Tex... where I am there is a huge problem with salt, moisture intake into the brake system.

There is no way to examine the inside of the piston / bores for corrosion.

I can evaluate corrosion of the pins, hangers, but what about the innards?

To evaluate mean to take it apart --- in the old days you cleaned it, put in a new piston seal, etc.

These kits are no longer sold --- so I just put on a quality (Ford OEM) reman.

I realize you may not need this in Texas --- but with 2% water per year in brake fluid... interior rust is a big problem.

In any case, what works for me... does not necessarily work for you.

I like my routine... and it is kind of like changing oil at 3,000 miles... unnecessary to me!


In your area, the problem will not be salt / and not necessarily water (depending on how humid your area is)... but heat for heavy use.

If we can have an ideal solution, I would rebuild my own (known good calipers) with silicon seals and gaskets --- which have a much higher tolerance to heat than EPDM rubber --- the standard.

 

Around here you would be hard pressed to find a place that still turns rotors...Most of the big auto parts stores have gotten out of it for liability reasons.. Most mechanics I know don't bother as rotors are now somewhat of a disposable item because of price...

I cant go back to the beginning of the thread but did you say it was 8 yrs and how many miles since a brake job... rotors do warp and warp a lot easier if they are turned more than they should have been ... Did the dealer mic them before and after the turn down..Could they have turned them down to much and when the mechanic took it for a ride to seat the pads did he over heat them and warp the rotor... Rotor usually warp after the cool down not the heat up...Unless of course the rotors are real thin .. I have seen them break apart when turned to far down and heated...

I like to get two pad changes out of my rotors.. But sometimes I have to change them every pad change..They pit , warp and rust.. Also if they get to rusty they tend not to dissipate the heat well and the brakes fade sooner...

Asked the dealer if they will give you the parts at cost or as commercial discount...

 

What Ford really said:

stock rotors are already so cut down (thin) that we no longer leave a margin for resurfacing.


Flexible hoses are inspected by me every time I am under the vehicle (2x a year)

Any hint of cracking.. and they go.

Likewise, so are exposed brake lines --- inspected for rust damage.

 

that hydro boost is getting old you should replace it also

 

Zman:

The real problem with hydroboost is dirty fluid... jamming brakes.

There is a fix for an aftermarket filter that is permanently installed.

 

The truck is getting old, better replace it also!!!

 

metal fatigue is an issue ,, I would replace the brake pedal
or atleast the foot pad ,, a worn foot pad can be slippery

 

Me also. I was quite surprised at the difference in firmness and feel. I forget what the absorption rate of water into brake fluid is, but it's quite a bit. Besides powersteering fluid this is probably the most overlooked/neglected until it's too late and expensive.

 

2 percent a year, up to 8% then it tapers off.

 

This is the 6.0 diesel forum, but you knew that right??

 

How does one flush the hydro boost?

 

I pulled the return hose from the side of the hydro boost and put a long 3/8 hose from the fitting to a jug ,, it only flows whahn u push the brakes or turn the wheel side to side ( jack the front end off the ground)

then work between brakes and steering while filling up every so often ( you can leave her running while you do this it won't be a rush)

 

like this

Ford Super Duty Power Steering Flush | Superdutypsd.com


I used synthetic as a refill