Dealership problems - Brakes issue
#31
01-14-2011, 05:16 PM
That link doesn't work but i think i understand from the earlier post. Thanks.
#35
01-14-2011, 06:20 PM
#37
01-14-2011, 08:21 PM
Texans.
I do so recommend and I stand by it.
And not just in salt land here, but everywhere.
I have seen too many issues to not spend $100 extra for a rotor (a lot less for lower grade ones), and $60 for a reman caliper.
Incremental cost doing it my way: extra $350 or so per axle for 350 truck grade rotors.
At those prices, it is not worth doing diagnostics.
I will however state, if you got a real well matched pair of pads and rotors, you can get them to just about wear out each other (pad wear out at same time as rotor thinness hits reject).
Have to match it with individual pad / rotor combos.. and if there is not abnormal pad wear from a binding caliper, it last the life of each other.
Then I never have to cut a rotor --- oh... there is no way to cut a rotor without losing a lot of metal --- read braking / heat absorption capacity.
So that is the way I am... some people buy APRs they don't need, I buy brake work I probably don't absolutely need...
Like bi-annual changes of brake fluid.. because I think 4% moisture is too much in my system.
I would sooner put $350 in brakes my way than to buy many other bling bling.
I do so recommend and I stand by it.
And not just in salt land here, but everywhere.
I have seen too many issues to not spend $100 extra for a rotor (a lot less for lower grade ones), and $60 for a reman caliper.
Incremental cost doing it my way: extra $350 or so per axle for 350 truck grade rotors.
At those prices, it is not worth doing diagnostics.
I will however state, if you got a real well matched pair of pads and rotors, you can get them to just about wear out each other (pad wear out at same time as rotor thinness hits reject).
Have to match it with individual pad / rotor combos.. and if there is not abnormal pad wear from a binding caliper, it last the life of each other.
Then I never have to cut a rotor --- oh... there is no way to cut a rotor without losing a lot of metal --- read braking / heat absorption capacity.
So that is the way I am... some people buy APRs they don't need, I buy brake work I probably don't absolutely need...
Like bi-annual changes of brake fluid.. because I think 4% moisture is too much in my system.
I would sooner put $350 in brakes my way than to buy many other bling bling.
#38
01-14-2011, 08:43 PM
Really?
Once a year i take a syringe and suck out the resivoir fluid, put in fresh fluid and then bleed each caliper about 10 times. I can do all off this in under 15 minutes.
I do tow a 5th wheel sometimes but i find that in a humid climate its worth it to cycle fluid often than have a brake system corode and cost me money.
I
#40
01-14-2011, 08:58 PM
#41
01-14-2011, 09:16 PM
I have four trucks and three cars and the cars are over thirty years old and the only time I flush the fluid out is if I replace a caliper or wheel cylinder and have to bleed the brakes. I have never had a problem with contaminated fluid and live in an area with 80-90 percent humidity in the summer and a lot of rainfall and have yet to see any water in the brake fluid. If people really do replace fluid that often it is news to me, I have never heard of that.
#43
01-14-2011, 11:45 PM
I do believe Mercedes and BMW both recommend brake fluid flushes every 30K... I have done them Wbut wait until the fluid starts changing color ..But I have to say I never really noticed any difference in pedal pressure... I do change out my Rubber brake lines every couple of yrs when I do pads.. Regardless of there appearance outside.. There cheap and a while back while bleeding my brakes my buddy was pumping the pedal and I noticed one of my lines had what looked like a hernia(Big bubble would appear on the side of the hose)every time he pumped it up... I also had a hose collapse and would not release the caliper.. Took me a while to figure that on out..
#44
01-15-2011, 03:49 PM
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OK just some info.
I work for Ford/Land Rover.
Per Ford/Land Rover we are not allowed to turn rotor's
We measure if and when the pads show signs of needing to be changed if below spec recommend replacement. if they are any marks or hot spots recommend replacement. If there out of round replace. At my dealer we recommend replacing pads and rotor's almost every time because we don't want customers coming back due to noise or something they feel. Now I also do recommend the brake fluid be changed at least once a year unless vehicle is not driving alot.
Now Calipers if we can't push the piston back in then shop foremen gets called in if it doesn't go in easily then we recommend replacing it.
Same goes for slide pins i will recommend a new caliper bracket if one of the slide pins doesn't come out at all. But then again i work for a dealer.
Time is money.
I work for Ford/Land Rover.
Per Ford/Land Rover we are not allowed to turn rotor's
We measure if and when the pads show signs of needing to be changed if below spec recommend replacement. if they are any marks or hot spots recommend replacement. If there out of round replace. At my dealer we recommend replacing pads and rotor's almost every time because we don't want customers coming back due to noise or something they feel. Now I also do recommend the brake fluid be changed at least once a year unless vehicle is not driving alot.
Now Calipers if we can't push the piston back in then shop foremen gets called in if it doesn't go in easily then we recommend replacing it.
Same goes for slide pins i will recommend a new caliper bracket if one of the slide pins doesn't come out at all. But then again i work for a dealer.
Time is money.