Thanks Pete, I was not aware! It's been in for about 1500 miles.... I'm parking the truck this weekend to do some upgrades and will change the oil too.

 

I just switched from rotella syn to schaffers 9000 syn mainly due to the fact that its not supposed to shear as bad which is good because the dual pumps shear oil quick and its also cheaper than rotella. Im also going to try their fuel additive and anti gell when I do my oil change when I get back from florida. I switched right before the trip and will have the oil analyzed. Ill let you guys know the results!

 

Very cool thread. This is making me think ab going with the schaffers. What is the difference in the 7000 compared to the 9000. And when the weather starts to warm up do you all go to a thicker oil.

 

Schaeffer fuel additives are top notch.

 

The 7000 is 15-40 semi syn and the 9000 is 5-40 full syn. Yes I switch to a 15-40 for the warmer months.

Talyn do you run the fuel additive and which one? They have a couple different ones

 

No, i've just done lots of reading on them.
There are some good reps here who've done test with the fuel and posted pictures.
maybe that was on PSN.
whatever.

I use 2cycle oil for additives.
I wanted to be a schaefers rep, but they have sales minimums.

If i was rich I could sell their product. heh.

 

William has offered some excellent responses to some key issues. I'll only respond because I've run both Amsoil 5w40 and Schaeffer 9000 series 5w40, both full synthetics.

I'll also be up front and say that I am a Schaeffer rep, but I will not push our oil. I am an engineer first, and my goals are long life and reliability with my personal vehicle. Even though I rep Schaeffer, if I find a better or more cost-effective product, I'll be running THAT in my vehicle. Now, I only became a rep AFTER running the Schaeffer for over 2 years in my truck and seeing the difference, and only started using the Schaeffer product AFTER running the Amsoil and seeing its lack of long term performance in my engine.

More context... I am running a 2 micron Racor bypass oil filtration system, and that was in place BEFORE I started using either Amsoil or Schaeffer. I change both the main flow filter and bypass elements at every oil change.

My personal goal is to get as long of an oil change interval as possible without paying through the nose, losing additive activity, sheared down viscosity, or wear metals starting to climb. Any demise of either of those last three characteristics is the limiting factor on how long I run my oil. At this point, Schaeffer is the cheapest option I've found due to the length of life I get from it without compromising my engine's performance or life.

On Amsoil, when I hit 13K miles, the oil had already sheared down to a 30w and my iron levels were climbing. I had already decided to try the Schaeffer before that point due to what I had heard about their oil, and switched. I am now at 18K miles between changes with everything (additives, viscosity, etc.) holding up... don't know if I can get much further until I get my latest samples back from the lab. If we were running either a D-max or a Cummins, we could get even longer life out of the oil because neither of those engines are nearly as bad on oil shear as the Ford 7.3, and the Ford 6.0 is the worst on shearing oil.

Technology differences do exist between Amsoil and Schaeffer (since those were the OP's point of interest). Both use the same types of high grade synthetic products, and both use good additive packages with extreme pressure additives being one of two main reasons for extra oil life. The second main reason for longer oil life with these products is the quality of synthetic oils being used which are more temperature tolerant and viscosity-stable.

The extreme pressure additive packages in Amsoil and Schaeffer are not the same, though. In addition to having the same zinc as Amsoil, Schaeffer has two additional extreme pressure additives which Amsoil does not contain - molybdenumdisulfide (a soluble form of moly which cannot get filtered out, even at 1-2 micron levels of filtration) and proprietary additive that was developed by Schaeffer in the 50's or 60's (no one else in the world even has access to to this additive).

Regarding the Schaeffer moly package versus the Amsoil zinc package... you might be thinking, "So what?" Well, here's the reason why the difference is significant. Though zinc is a good extreme pressure additive, the metal-to-zinc bond can be broken much more easily (~ 250,000 psi) as compared to the metal-to-moly bond (550,000 psi), and that means that when you punch your throttle and cause your shaft to slam the top inner surface of your main bearings, you will break that zinc bond and end up with metal-to-metal wear in a zinc-based oil. However, in contrast, the strength of the metal-to-moly bond is so great that there is almost no wear under the same conditions because the moly is not knocked loose from the metal surfaces. since the moly stays in place, it continues to work as a dry lubricant (preventing metal-to-metal contact) even when engine forces case the oil to get completely squeezed out from between rotating components. You end up with both lower friction inside your engine and less metal-to-metal contact.

Now... all that being said, I have had great success with Amsoil in my gas engines, but it just didn't live up to its advertised capabilities in my 7.3. As for Rotella T6 (their 5w40 synthetic), if I could not get the Schaeffer product, I would run the Rotella T6 because the Amsoil is not that much better in comparison to the cost difference between it and the T6.

 

I'm using the DieselTreat 2000... so far so good. I find that it's very cost effective- .13 ounces per gallon. I normally add about 15-16 gallons of fuel to each tank when I fill up and only need to add 2 ounces of DT2000 in each tank. No gelling issues, but this is my first winter using it and we have not had any extreme cold weather.

 

Thanks Pete.

I emailed Gary by accident before sending you an email.
haha.
That was... Uhm interesting.

His response was a lot like yours.

Gary is also a Schaeffers rep in Ohio, but he's more of a desk jockey than Pete here.


If anyone is interested in the Racor system that Pete is talking about, I can tell you more about that as well.
I spent a month looking over various bypass systems and I believe the Racor system to be the best available for our trucks and many other trucks at that.
Best bang for your buck and the most technology put into a filter that I can find.

It's a stepped filter down to 2-3 microns like Pete said, but instead of being just 2-3 microns, its a stepped filter.
I forgot where it starts at. 100microns I believe.

 

Oil leak fix: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

I just used this kit, it works very well.

 

X's 2


William, I'd be very interested in learning more about the Racor bypass filter system! You can PM me, or I can PM you my email? Or we can discuss here? Thanks!

 

Just use the email link in my profile and send me an email.
I'll email you the racor stuff.

 

Pete, I run the 7000. Do you feel that the 9000 is better? I was told that the 7000 will not shear down as quick. You can see what I pull in my signature and last summer went 11K and had 'chemical' high levels of copper and iron. Farther testing (and more money) showed everything to be within normal range. Also, I run the FS2500, what, if any, are the differences between the two? Racor sounds like it has a better filter?? Are you pulling heavy if you go 18K with Schaeffer's? Sorry about all the questions! PS, I run the Schaeffer auto trans oil too, can it be used in P/S pump too? I'll stop now, LOL

 

The racor is a stepped filter.
thats why I feel its better.
Kinda like a higher technology sorta deal.

different levels of filters using different materials, but all in one filter.

 

The 9000 gives better cold starts and slightly better mileage, but since you're pulling, the 7000 is probably better overall for your situation. I've heard the same comparison regarding shear, but have no data to prove either way.

Can't speak to the difs between FS2500 and Racor except that the Racor seems to be cheaper and still offers excellent fitltration. In my book, the cost:benefit ratio leans towards the Racor, but I would not ditch your FS system for a swap... you're in good shape.

The only thing I pull is my own weight, and hte only thing I haul is my own rear end.

Yes, the 204SAT can be used in your PS pump just like a typical ATS fluid.